You pick ca-luh!! (Embedded Coating Tech Input Sought.)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

WTF is wrong with this app?

I quit.

yeah, right

 

[Delancy]

yeah, right

Typed an epically proportioned post, that failed.

Re-typed, to fail again.

Maybe a sign.

So, truncated.

1. How much paint would one assume it'd take to paint every mechanical component, including axles, block....everything but the frame?

Need to order and unsure if a gallon, three gallons, or ten.

2. Any suggestions on a resource for color matched paint for the head?

Freeborn Red or a close equivalent.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

just fill up an open top dumpster and rent a crane

 

[Delancy]

just fill up an open top dumpster and rent a crane

I'll that that as my cue that I've lost the audiences interest....

 

[npulver]

Well you figure a typical mixed gallon with paint an entire car. I think with extra mixings, waste paint, over spray. I would think a mixed gallon and a half would do it....which means i would personally buy two mixable gallons. (i would rather shoot high.)

A mixable gallon will typically get me 2-3 coats on a smaller car (Think BMW 3 series, Nissan 240sx size)

Just remember im talking automotive car paint, if your spraying with something thicker, you'll probably have to double the quantity.

 

[npulver]

Also, going back to the first page. You guys were talking about ceramic coating headers/exhaust and talking about the head dissipation you get with it. I come from the car "race world" something that a lot of guys that run turbos will do is ceramic coat not only the outside, but the inside. You'll get twice the heat dissipation that way. Works great.

To be honest i cant really speak about how durable the coating is on the inside of items, as typically i never really pulled them off and checked them. (Wasnt really a concern when your more worried about going fast!)

 

[Delancy]

First, thanks for a coverage criteria. Will order three gallons, to be certain, since I know Robbie isn't going to be able to spray everything at one time.

Second....

Discussed ceramic coating the intake/exhaust manifold with a local coater/car buff, and, based on a cursory glance at the manifolds, he questioned wether or not ceramic may lessen the lifespan by not allowing the heat to dissipate out of the "pot metal" construction.

Thinking others may have stated similar, so back to square one on what to do to maintain a decent finish on the exterior surfaces of the manifolds, even if the inside is ceramic coated.

Still debating, but based on the fact that these manifolds are not easy to come by, but have proven to maintain through however many heat cycles are typical 250-300k kilometers, may leave the things alone and run 'em as Toyota intended.

The exhaust will be coated. Regret not doing on the 80, but only from an aesthetic standpoint.

 

[DieselFJ]

This is what I have used for frames, brackets, axles, etc... I have had great luck with the SEM product line. In the link below I use the flat black with the gloss hardener. It leaves a great satin finish. It also rolls on very well leaving a smooth finish.


http://www.semproducts.com/rust-shield/


For other brackets where I need a spray can I use SEM Trim Black. I have never seen a product that lays out like this and is very durable.


http://www.semproducts.com/trim-black/

 

[npulver]

All SEM products are awesome, i personally use a lot of there products (interior paints, textures) as well as the Trim Black. Trim black is great stuff.

Personally never used teh rust shield, i'll have to check that out also.

 

[DieselFJ]

All SEM products are awesome, i personally use a lot of there products (interior paints, textures) as well as the Trim Black. Trim black is great stuff.

Personally never used teh rust shield, i'll have to check that out also.

Once I started to use SEM products I have not been disappointed. In my book the Rust Shield beats Powder Coating anyday.

I would like to know if anyone has had experience with the Rock-It liner truck bedliner. If it is anything like there other products it would be a great option, plus it is tintable.

 

[Delancy]

Answered a few questions......

Spray-able and can be used for block paint...

From Expo-

"I'm a bit hung-up right now waiting for tranny parts and for the frame to get galvanized. (The galvy shop had a breakdown and won't be up and running for another week or two) Decided I'd do a little work on the engine and get it painted. Got the oil pans on for good and things cleaned up and sprayed it today with Sem Rust Shield. Good engine paint...Sticks like glue and shines pretty well."



Considering the guy sprayed in a downdraft booth, going to assume he's experienced.

 

[Delancy]

Google always brings me back to Mud.....

I had a long talk with the guy that's gonna paint my cab & bed, he does lots of muscle car restorations, has a room full of trophys. He says his standard method is to have the frame sand blasted then as quickly as possible he shoots it with the SEM Rust Shield. He then uses SEM Chassis Black on top of that. He shares my opinion that POR15 is a waste of time and money.

I went to the paint parts store (when I redid a chassis for a friend) and asked them what they would recommend. The paint was an SEM chassis black, and was around $40 a gallon. It was the industrial single stage, and needed a little hardener and thinner. All total was around $75, and I shot the chassis, some other parts, and two PTO winches-including vtcruiser60's. Shot great, and all in all was darn cheap.

A minor point....but it is my understanding that hardener simply accelerates the cure time for paints, it does not actually produce a final product that is "harder" in any way. If you have a need to speed up the cure time, a hardener makes sense.

Thanks! It's been a fast but long project.

I am happy with the paint. The same paint I use for everything. SEM Rust Shield black. Mixed with Fast dry urethane grade reducer. Dry's like a rock.

One of scrowley's projects...









Another....

SEM Rust Shield is also nice. It comes in a UV resistant black without needing a topcoat. It's only like $25/qt but will require a more expensive hardener for more gloss and better durability. I just used it for the first time last week and was happy with the application. It brushed on nicely.

 

[Pighead]

Intake manifolds last forever, not so exhaust manifolds.

 

[Delancy]

not so exhaust manifolds.

Would any coating or treatment prolong lifespan

 

[bobm]

Would any coating or treatment prolong lifespan

Chris, check Eastwood.


Thanks Bob.

 

[Pighead]

Would any coating or treatment prolong lifespan

I do not think so. Mine cracked and was done

...could any type of coating prevent cracking?

 

[Delancy]

I do not think so. Mine cracked and was done ...could any type of coating prevent cracking?

I don't know. If the cracking is mainly a result of heat cycles, I don't see how ceramic would help, unless applying to the inside minimizes how hot it gets.

 

[Delancy]

Chris, check Eastwood. Thanks Bob.

Guessing these are rust inhibitors, only , both brush on, but they do have a rattle can equivalent.





They state sand blasting a requirement to prep, to allow adhesion.

Also offer a high temp PC which appears popular in the Z crowd.



Looks good!

 

[tucker74]

I tried the POR15 header paint once on some brand new MAF 6-1 headers, total waste of time and peeled off in less than a year (and I'm an anal prepping mo-fo). I've heard ceramic or jet coating will last longer, how long I donno -

Tucker

 

[npulver]

There is no way IMO, to stop a cast manifold from cracking. Between it being cheap pot metal, and the heat cycles expanding and contracting it, its just an inevitability that its going to crack.