Did I understand one of your responses right where you said you don't wanna rattle can every few months?
Primarily, my statements regarding rattle can maintenance are on the 80 and FJC frame, under carriage, and axles....mostly the 80 since the FJC doesn't get wheeled anymore.
Think classic Cruisers frames rust badly?
Poke your head under a brand spanking new FJC. The port installed rust on even those we see in OK is concerning, since the oldest of them is 7 years.
Mine lived in Tulsa it's entire life and we may have two snow events that are street treated for a year, yet the underside looked like 80s I've seen from the NE, so it's an arduous process to decelerate the corrosion, and every few months, or when I'm changing fluids, will wipe down what's already been treated, for reapplication.
I regretted not tearing the 80 to the frame, even though it wasn't in bad shape, but know the day will come to "do it right".
Considering my heirs will be tasked with the future of all my "builds", want to make sure that I do it for the absolute last time on the Pig in discussion, as well the 72, when it's time comes..but unsure how to achieve.
If it's done right I would think it would hold up for the long haul.
For this purpose, using an complete F air cleaner and mounting bracket as an example.
I researched 202 and bought the highest quality PPG match to it, along with a self etching primer stated to be part one of the system, none being cheap. Keys assume that I have $15 in paint for one air cleaner, as I'm embarrassed to say what it really cost.
Paid to have several parts glass blasted after correcting a few pinholes and such, but associating a $20 charge for just to cleaner housing and lid, another $5 for the bracket.
Took several hours to do two complete assemblies over the course of a couple of days, and time is money, but we'll assume $5 labor, for S&GS.
Pretty much, the math pita this at $50, but it turned out looking like crap and I spent all kinds of time and researched methods and processes to the nth degree. Not sure what went wrong, but was so ashamed of the finished product I almost wanted to send money with it, to the person I have it away to, to fix it.
Why I'm concerned about "in house" painting.
I talked to a buddy that owns the body shop that Lexus, Mercedes, BMW dealers use (he's a buff now, cause Mrs. Delancy needs spotters in the mall parking lot. We know each other too well, due to.) about painting and he said he couldn't touch for much below a $35 per part charge, if I brought all blasted and ready at one time, ready to load and shoot two part in a short day for his spray booth.
Surely not indicative of all, but at the rates bandied around, I don't have issue outsourcing to ensure a quality finish that I may not be capable of providing.
Oddly, the restorer handling the 72 body work said to PC, unless it was going to be sitting on mirrors, almost as of it were the lesser of two finishes.
Powder coating gets expensive fast and more relevant doesn't like harsh chemicals (engine degreaser, brake fluid, etc.)
My concern, too, but seems like PC is the choice of most of Mud, and the results are awesome, but I've always been told that PC and hydro fluid don't mix.
so I wonder if powder coating stuff in the engine bay is the best idea?
Wish someone could offer long term, like on Big Gay or similar.
I've never had great success with any coating, in all honesty, even PC over galvanized, all done to combat the corrosive environment that a commercial indoor pool is capable of creating.
Within a year, the PC yellowed and every galvanized bolt began to rust from condensate.
I'm apprehensive, but basing the consideration on what's been posted on Mud.
