Yeti’s Cryptid Hundy Build

[yeti in ga]

Snorkel Head..

And the nice big notch that came with it for the USA trucks

and the seem shot along the side.

 

[yeti in ga]

TMAX and the dual battery install

Well , I think I have it all here , now just need the temp to get under 100 degrees so I can start this install.

seems to me the TMAX is a great deal for the price.

more details to come.......

 

[no-pistons]

Does the TMAX come with everything that is needed to install the system? Is the Red cable in there too? I only see black in the picture.

 

[yeti in ga]

Correct , it does not have the RED cable in there but I was hoping to use the black as the red , I am going to add red bands at each end and in the middle so it is clearly the main power cable. (I also have other smaller cable not in the picture.)

What do we think , is this a bad idea ?

 

[no-pistons]

Strange that it only comes with the black cable

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I just got my T-Max and cables in the mail last thursday. I'm anxious to see how you install yours. Good luck. I bought some 1/0 AWG Red Cable from Amazon. Didn't know the T-Max came with any. I should really open up that box and look at what's there.

 

[r2m]

Thanks , I hope it helps some decide what to do or not to do..

Here are some pics of my china snorkel up close shots. I will also post these on the thread for the knock off. So far I have been very happy with the modification.

The money shot... 160 dollar plastic , 2k worth of drilling holes..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RZc8MazBbiQ/T943a2q1VDI/AAAAAAAAGhE/Orw1SUqiDCg/s640/DSC07071.JPG

Are you saying this isn't one of the usual culprits of snorkel manufactures? It's from China? $160.00 dollars?? And I can keep my electric antenna too!

Do you have a vendor/link/manufacturer/???
I don't really care for the fact that it's made in China on account of their work ethic, but if the fit and finish is good and they are the only ones out there accommodating the right hand electric antenna, then I'll spend my money there!

 

[2000UZJ]

Are you saying this isn't one of the usual culprits of snorkel manufactures? It's from China? $160.00 dollars?? And I can keep my electric antenna too!

Do you have a vendor/link/manufacturer/???
I don't really care for the fact that it's made in China on account of their work ethic, but if the fit and finish is good and they are the only ones out there accommodating the right hand electric antenna, then I'll spend my money there!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/582237-budget-snorkel-review.html

 

[r2m]

Thanks for the thread!

 

[yeti in ga]

Ok I have started the dual battery install as of today (still 90 + outside) , I have removed the back rear passenger side panel. I liked the idea of having the blue sea panel in there and the always on 12v outlet wired from there. I am thinking it should be easier to add any additional wiring in the rear once this is in. I have 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse panel. I think this should be good enough for my needs but for some who want to run a large inverter 10 gauge might not be good enough.

pictures to come...

also The TMAX kit came with a little over 15 feet of 6 gauge black wire.

 

[2000UZJ]

I will be swinging by this week to see this
I may be doing dual battery as well. Seeing this is in the budget

 

[no-pistons]

pictures to come...

Looking forward to it!

 

[yeti in ga]

another 90 degree day , wiring

I have tried to capture some of what I am doing , the pictures really look like crap but i hope they convey the right idea.

I ran two 10 gauge wire to new aux battery. One for pos and neg.

Under the carpet there is a nice little area for wires. I have one tucked in and one on top for now.

Here is what the panel looks like pulled out , (looks like crap)

The hole back of my truck looks like crap.

 

[yeti in ga]

Here is the blue sea fuse box getting wired in. I am also running 10 gauge wire to the 12 volt plug in the back. I bolted to the plastic cubby and then added a little support in the back.

Here is the blue sea 12 volt lock in plug. I really like this thing.

my hope is that everything is bolted and sealed and can be gotten to with out to much problem.

Still a work in progress at this point, but I am heat sealing all connections for a nice fit and finish and hope the connections don't come loose.

I am already thinking of adding another 12 volt plug .......

 

[jgray]

Looks good. A few observations... You should not run a ground all the way back to your battery up front. You should make them short and to the closest good grounding point on the chasis or body of the vehicle. I have a 4 gauge and a 6 gauge power wire pulled from the battery the each side of the back of my 100. each fuse box in the back has short grounds run. I mounted a fuse box in the back where the jack in normally accessed and one where you have the small blue seas in the little cubby. I have not installed a second battery but all the wiring in the back is done. Haven't had much time to work on the Hundy lately... Also.... The carpet comes up real easy to route wires underneath... I ran power down each side of the truck as well as my CB antenna cable and the carpet pops up pretty easy with the trim panels removed...

 

[yeti in ga]

I will be the first to say I dont know what I am doing on the install and I have read 1 million threads and web sites but could not find some key parts of the set up. I am sure I read some where that going back the the neg on the battery was the way to go... but have no idea if the source was any good as there is a ton of trash on the internet. I think I am going to add a 100 amp fuse to the entire system to protect a few things , I did base some of my wiring based on this site: Wire Gauge Amps Ratings for 12 volt Automotive Systems

not sure if it is any good or not.

I have ever missed this part:

Then measure the distance that the wire will travel (length) including the length of the return to ground (the ground wire running to the chassis or back to a ground block or battery.

 

[mobi-arc]

Absolutely incorrect....you're making the assumption that body and/or chassis grounds are less resistive than a proper sized cable running directly to the battery. Running a dedicated ground DIRECTLY from the battery negative post to to your load is a much better practice than depending on chassis or body grounds that can be notoriously flakey. Also, 10GA was the chosen size of cabling. For small loads that may fine but for voltage sensitive accessories like fridges or inverters, it may be problematic.....I originally had a 10GA wire to the rear of my truck which was fine for powering my fuel transfer pump. When I installed a fridge, it would cut out prematurely and indicate a low voltage error code. Turns out there was enough resistance that at compressor startup that it would error out. Replaced the 10 with 4GA and the fridge is much happier.

Scott

Looks good. A few observations... You should not run a ground all the way back to your battery up front. You should make them short and to the closest good grounding point on the chasis or body of the vehicle. I have a 4 gauge and a 6 gauge power wire pulled from the battery the each side of the back of my 100. each fuse box in the back has short grounds run. I mounted a fuse box in the back where the jack in normally accessed and one where you have the small blue seas in the little cubby. I have not installed a second battery but all the wiring in the back is done. Haven't had much time to work on the Hundy lately... Also.... The carpet comes up real easy to route wires underneath... I ran power down each side of the truck as well as my CB antenna cable and the carpet pops up pretty easy with the trim panels removed...

 

[jgray]

I've never had a problem finding good grounds or using factory grounding points. I normally sand the paint away if necessary to get a clean bare metal grounding surface. Maybe I should have chosen my wording more carefully... I didn't mean to say you can't use the negative post of a battery which is a great grounding point... IMO in this application it is overkill to run a 20ft ground back to the battery when using a 10 gauge power wire... A proper 10 gauge ground to the chasis should work just fine... You can always check resistance with a DMM to ensure a good ground... If you were say a regular in car audio competitions with very high power amps I might suggest a large power wire back to the battery for grounding...

 

[mobi-arc]

No worries. Most of us assume chassis and/or body grounds are fine and in many cases they are, however I've spent an extraordinary amount of time trying to deal with connection and/or performance issues where convenient grounds in the rear of the vehicle are tapped and assumed to be good and aren't.

I've never had a problem finding good grounds or using factory grounding points. I normally sand the paint away if necessary to get a clean bare metal grounding surface. Maybe I should have chosen my wording more carefully... I didn't mean to say you can't use the negative post of a battery which is a great grounding point... IMO in this application it is overkill to run a 20ft ground back to the battery when using a 10 gauge power wire... A proper 10 gauge ground to the chasis should work just fine... You can always check resistance with a DMM to ensure a good ground... If you were say a regular in car audio competitions with very high power amps I might suggest a large power wire back to the battery for grounding...

 

[yeti in ga]

OK after reading some more and another Tmax thread , I have pulled all my 10 gauge out and re did the runs to the back with 6 gauge wire for both runs. This also has a 100amp fuse in line headed to the back. I have also decided to run 4 gauge for the main battery with a 200amp fuse. I think this will do it for me as the panel in the back is now rewired. It has 2 , 12v blue sea locking plugs on 30 amp fused connections. then room for more when the time comes. Now I just need to get the other cables and the never ending dual battery install will be complete.

then got side tracked via wireless blue tooth + nexus 7

This mount is removable and can be relocated to windshield if needed

So now as I am cruising along..

Or needing to map my way along.

What is also cool about the 7 inch Nexus is that it fits right in the center console as a nice hiding place.