XMight buyX EDIT: BOUGHT an 86 SR5 with 400k (1 Viewer)

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
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Northern Rockies
Whelp. This happened.

Turns out this couple has owned it since ‘88. Got a factory service manual with it too, which I much prefer over scrolling through a digital version.

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Joined
Jun 22, 2005
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Atlanta
I stand by my recommendation to buy this truck and restore and build it. Note: Do not scroll back to earlier posts.

Seriously though - that looks like a solid (!) truck from what's visible in the pics.

What's first on the list?
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
143
Location
Northern Rockies
I stand by my recommendation to buy this truck and restore and build it. Note: Do not scroll back to earlier posts.

Seriously though - that looks like a solid (!) truck from what's visible in the pics.

What's first on the list?
I found a complete oem front end, hub to hub, for cheap that I need to look at. He's also got some OME take-off suspension parts and from the sounds of things a hoarder-level stash of Yota pickup stuff. If that stuff works out, front end replacement, rear springs and shocks on all four corners are first. One of the idler pulleys sounds like a piglet getting castrated (wear ear plugs if you ever have to do that) so I'll be doing belts, bearings (if they're the cast pulleys with replaceable bearings) or pulleys, and looking at baseline tuneup and some seafoam through the fuel system to start. I need to re-wire those rectangle aux lights and check the switch for the reverse lights. Speaking of those aux lights, they've got a heavy aluminum housing around them that I've never seen before. Anyone have an idea of who made them? Cibie?

Then go through their receipts and get a real plan for what's next.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
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5,471
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Southern Colorado
Looks like a good truck!

I did a front heater core in my '89 4runner. Not impossible, but a total teardown of the dash and bending a support out of the way to get the heater box out. And after trying all the aftermarket heater cores that didn't fit, I went OEM for $250. Fit perfectly. I drove it with the dash apart for several days to be SURE the new core was not leaking. I had at least 9 hours into the job.
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
143
Location
Northern Rockies
Looks like a good truck!

I did a front heater core in my '89 4runner. Not impossible, but a total teardown of the dash and bending a support out of the way to get the heater box out. And after trying all the aftermarket heater cores that didn't fit, I went OEM for $250. Fit perfectly. I drove it with the dash apart for several days to be SURE the new core was not leaking. I had at least 9 hours into the job.
thanks for the info. The previous owner said it’s a pain in the butt to get to it and that’s why he hasn’t replaced it. I’ll get to it after some higher priority stuff.
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
143
Location
Northern Rockies
Picked up some used OME leaf springs and questionable (but the price was right) rancho shocks for all four corners. Got another IFS front diff and stub shafts from the same guy. I've got a couple of questions....
1. Who is a good supplier for bushings, shackles and U-bolts.
2. Have any of you machined the non-ADD front diff housing to accept a needle bearing? The ADD housings have a bearing and from what I've read there's no difference in the casting. I've got access to the equipment, I just want to make sure it's do-able before I make a faceplate to chuck this thing in a lathe. Also, if anyone has done this, were you able to use the non-ADD stub shafts, or did you have to swap to the ADD shafts. And what p/n bearing works?
3. What happens to all the IFS diffs from everyone SAS-ing these things. You'd think people would want to get rid of em.
 

Zor

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Jul 4, 2016
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Northern Rockies
Making some baby steps...
-Oil change and filter inspection done. Oil looked like it was changed before it went up for sale, filter was clean.
-Belts replaced. Idler pulley was fine. The squeal was from a toasted fan/alternator belt.
-Used Rancho front shocks put on. That made an unreal difference up front. I think I what I pulled off were the originals. Eventually I'll get some gas KYB's for all four corners.
-The used differential housing I got is just as bad as what's in the truck. I found a 94 4runner parts truck locally. Waiting to hear back on a price for the whole front end. I wouldn't mind getting the bigger V6 calipers (I'd grab the MC and booster as well) and fresher everything else. I'll be swapping the manual hubs over for sure though. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try to machine this spare housing to retrofit it to the needle bearing support. If anyone has done this successfully, please let me know.
-As for the rear I've got U-bolts, shackles and bushings on their way and a pair of OME CS009R leafs waiting to go in.
-Also debating on ordering OEM Sumitomo plug wires ($$$) or Denso wires and then grabbing an OEM cap and rotor to finish out the engine tune-up.

I've been driving it all over town and for 430K it really hums along nicely. Has a little shimmy over 65, but nothing really concerning. I'm waiting to solve my diff issue seeing where I land with used OEM front end stuff before ordering ball joints/bushings/tie rod ends/etc to make everything nice and tight up there.

On my growing to do list is:
-H4 Hella conversion with updated wiring.
-Speaking of wiring, battery terminals and covers are in order.
-Seat covers in the near future.
-Tires are needed if I'm going to start dallying this thing, they're effectively time bombs.
-I'd like to find an OEM jack and lug wrench. Decide what to do with the bed rust or make a flatbed.
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
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Northern Rockies
I found a 94 4runner parts truck locally and made a deal on the entire front end and the rear diff since the I'm pretty sure it's got 4.30's in it and my truck is 4.10's. Trim code on the parts truck is G284 with an R150F trans, if I looked things up correctly that's 4.30 gears. Can anyone confirm? I went and looked at it and the pass side stub shaft is well supported and has no play. The rest of it looks pretty good. The truck looks straight (looks can be decieving) and is a parts truck due to engine issues not a wreck. The 4runner only has 246K on the clock and is 8 years newer than my little pickup so I'm planning on grabbing everything as whole as I can. I'll swap my manual hubs in place of the ADD flanges, but other wise I'm going to use as much of the 4runner as possible as long as I don't find any major issues. I don't have a case spreader or press anymore, so I'm thinking it'll be easier to swap rear diffs and convert my whole truck to 4.30's than it would be to do a proper install of that front diff housing with my 4.10 gears. Also, I'd probably go down the rabbit hole of replacing every wear part in that front housing because once I get something opened up I just can't help myself.

The rear is semi-float (?) so all I should have to do is disconnect the drive (propeller in Toyota speak) shaft, disconnect the brake lines, undo the four bolts behind each backing plate, pull the axles out a bit, undo the ten (?) bolts on the center section and pull it out. Am I missing anything there?

For the front end my plan is to pull the torsion bars, remove the front shocks, disconnect brake lines, drop the sway bar from the frame, remove the 12 (total) bolts attaching the A-arms to the frame, disconnect the ADD crap, pull the bolts attaching the diff to the crossmember and then drop the whole front end as a unit. I need to look at the FSM diagram to figure out where the easiest place to disconnect the steering components will be.

I need to remember to grab the master cylinder and brake booster while I'm in there. Am I missing any places to hang up? Hidden fasteners? Problems I'm not thinking of?


In other news, OEM replacements are en route for the rest of the tune-up parts, air filter and rear leaf spring bushings. Seat covers and shifter boot are also ordered. Thanks @Manhattan for the link on the shifter boot.
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
143
Location
Northern Rockies
Since everybody likes pictures...
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Wiper arms got painted with Rustoleum hammertone. Better than bare/rust, far from great...
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And has anyone else had issues with factory aluminum wheels getting emotionally (chemically) attached to the hubs? I had to do some whopping and whooping with a dead blow the get em off. The good news is the rotors aren't horrible and the pads have lots of meat left. Note the crusty white residue where the dis-similar metals got busy with the help of the crappy ice-melt the county uses up here.
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Joined
Sep 11, 2012
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574
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Vancouver, B.C.
I have had a few issues getting my alloys off also. probably the salt, or I just let them sit on there too long. Procedure for pulling diff will work. Drain fluid first. I pulled the rear diff from a '94. It had 4:30 gears. I think 4:56 were available as well. You might be able to check with the VIN on Toyota DIY, or look at the paint colour on the pin flange, if there is any left. I sold the 4:30 diff because I'm trying to put an e-locker in instead.
 
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Jefferson
The late codes aren't always accurate. But G28x is 4.30 G29x is 4.10.

You cant really drop the front suspension as a unit.
I would loosen the bars. Unbolt the upper BJs.
Driveline, sway bar, brake lines . Depending on what you taking from steering, i think it would be easier to disco TREs from knuckles.
Lower arm bolts and diff cross member bolts. Drop lowers, diff and axles as a unit.
Of course the you get the uppers and bars out.
 

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