XMight buyX EDIT: BOUGHT an 86 SR5 with 400k (1 Viewer)

Zor

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I need a firewood hauler for collecting wood in NW Montana and I’m on the fence about an 86 pickup with 400k on the clock. It’s an SR5 regular cab, manual transmission.

I’ve got a 97 FZJ80 and a 13 Taco with a campershell that stays on permanently. Neither of those are candidates for wood hauling. I’m capable of any work that needs to be done short of machine shop access, but I also don’t want to buy something I can’t get cheap parts for. No intentions of a SAS or anything crazy. If the suspension is shot, maybe a little lift with heavy rear springs. And maybe build a flatbed for it for better hauling capacity.

So I guess my question is, what are the pitfalls of a 400k truck? If the engine is toast, how easy are parts to come by? Same question for trans/t-case? Any typical rust locations I should look at to determine if it’s a basket case? (From a distance it looks pretty straight and solid) Any other key points I should look for as make or break items?
 

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
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Gainesville, VA
This title should read "I bought an 86 sr5 w 400k".

How much are they asking?

Which motor is in it?

Off the top of my head:
Head gasket(s)
timing belt (3.0) chain (22re)
smoke on start up
water pump

How long as it been sitting?

Check for hacked wiring jobs.

Frame rot around body mounts and above rear tire carrier.
 

Zor

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
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Northern Rockies
This title should read "I bought an 86 sr5 w 400k".

How much are they asking?

Which motor is in it?

Off the top of my head:
Head gasket(s)
timing belt (3.0) chain (22re)
smoke on start up
water pump

How long as it been sitting?

Check for hacked wiring jobs.

Frame rot around body mounts and above rear tire carrier.

My hope/fear is that the title evolves to “I bought...”

-I’m guessing 22RE, but may have the V6.
-thanks for the parts to look at/replace rundown. I’ve done some googling and FAQ reading. It looks like enginebldr is retired, who is the reliable parts source for timing chain, water pump, gaskets, etc. Is there any oem stock left for the 22RE?
-Don’t know if it’s been sitting, it’s at a “Park and Sell” lot in town. Looks like a runner from the outside, no obvious signs of sitting around.
-Thanks for the rust areas to look for. Are the body mounts for the cab on the four corners? Or more places than that?

Asking price is $2k, but I’m thinking there’s some wiggle room. $2,500 obo has already been crossed out on the window sign.
 

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
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For $2k it shouldn't have a ton of issues, def things that will need addressed but should be a runner.
On pickups i believe there are only 4 cab mounts, best way to check is to crawl under and look.
Regarding parts source, not sure of any member since Onur has also stepped out of the parts buisness. I know there are dealerships people use- camelback toyota, mcgeorge toyta to name a few.
 
Joined
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Loomis, California
At 400k that truck is DONE. For 2k the PO better have gone through some vital things. Pull the carpet on drivers floor and check for rust there. Windshields leak, windows leak, (sunroofs leak FML) all the water will sneak down and soak into the carpet and retain moisture forever. I would never buy a v6 rig though. Some like them but I’m not a fan. If it’s a v6 I would walk. My .02. The 22re is so easy and cheap to work on that if you have to do anything to it at all just do everything, ie head, timing chain, gaskets, etc, etc. Check for electrical demons! Make sure everything works and things aren’t doing goofy things.
 

Zor

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Northern Rockies
Looking at the truck now, waiting on the owner to show up. 22re, has factory looking sunroof, a/c switch on the dash, clock, no vent wings, buckets, Aisin front hubs, tired rear suspension and stock bumpers.

Cab floor, rockers, pinch weld and body mounts are solid. Frame looks Pretty good at the tire carrier. Lots of oil around the passenger side cv by the flange on the differential side of the cv. Looks to be a fairly stock truck with saggy rear suspension.

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Zor

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Northern Rockies
So did you get it for a grand?
He wants to think about it/wait for a better offer. He was honest about everything wrong with it and told me he already refused to sell it to someone that didn’t understand what maintenance it needed to be reliable, and another guy that wanted it for his daughter’s first car.
 

Zor

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Northern Rockies
It runs. No smoke. No noises.
Shifts through the gears. No scary trans noises.
Relatively quiet in the cab.
Power windows and locks work.
Brakes feel strong. E-brake is also good.
Steering feels tight enough. Tracks straight.


It needs
-a passsnger side cv and maybe more. He said the hub engages, but it makes noise over 30mph.
-a/c compressor is seized. I don’t really need A/C up here.
-had a head gasket leak around 300k, added stop leak to get home. Heater core is clogged with it.
-rear springs are sagalicious
-Tires have about a season left.
 

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
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stop leak will be a pain but if you are handy and can tear down a motor or at least thorougly flush one you should be ok. Just flush flush flush till its clear coming out. Heater core can't be too bad since these trucks were tiny inside so getting the dash off can't be that hard (speculation, not experience).

CV axles you can probably get at chain auto parts stores or rockauto.com (5% coupon here on mud) and just replace them under warranty if they give you problems.

Truck probably has 235/75/15s on it, you can get a set of 4 decent(kuhmo road venture, falkens) tires new from amazon for like $400 in that size.
For springs find someone who is parting out and get theirs, or add a helper.

See if hell do like $1500?
 
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Just my honest opinion just going on what you have stated and the overall condition, it's a money pit but that is up to you if you want to bury another $2500 into that truck to get it running right. The engine is toast it is next to impossible to remove all that junk from the block and coolant passages you will need a radiator and heater core and you can backflush that engine all you want and it will never be the same unless it's overhauled. You are better off to find another long block get everything right the first time, i would offer him no more than $1500 and not another penny. Hope this help in your decision.

Just to add that tire looks like over ten years old it might look ok until you hit the open road. I wouldn't drive that past 40 mph.
 

Zor

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Usually when that stop leak stuff does what it’s designed to do it does not come out no matter how much flushing, praying or meditating you do. That heater core’s only hope is getting dipped at a radiator shop. I need to look into if that’s effective. Also, my understanding is that it’s a PITA to access/get out. On the plus side, the radiator has been replaced since the stop leak incident. As for the engine, hopefully dipping the block solves any issues when it goes to the machine shop. It’s only a matter of time, but hopefully it makes it til winter.

The CV/front diff issue is a bit of a mystery to me as I’ve never had one apart. There’s a significant (.5”) amount of play where the pass CV enters the diff. This is my immediate concern. I think there’s a needle bearing in the diff housing supporting the output shaft, and judging by the amount of play, that bearing no longer exists. The flanges had press in studs from the factory and the flanges on this truck are nuts and bolts, so they’ve been gone into at some point. My hope is to immediately find a complete stock front IFS and change it out with used oem. My understanding is that the oem stub shafts are far superior to the ‘break em once a year and warranty’ Napa replacements. There’s a craigslist ad local with a bunch of pickup parts including some OME leafs and ifs front end parts. Hoping the price is right and I can scoop up what I need.

Tires are sketchy at best, but I just need to collect fire wood close-ish to home. They’ll get replaced in due time. If I lose a tire, or engine for that matter, and worse comes to worse, I hitch hike outta the forest, and come back with a trailer behind my landcruiser. I have a winch and all the recovery crap so I can get that lil truck outta anywhere I get it stuck.

He told me $1500 while we were going over all the issues. Due to the front end needing immediate attention, I told him $1000. He’s got the spot at that park and sell paid for another week and he said he wanted that long to think it over.
 
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Good idea going for a complete IFS change out. Just have to find one thats dry/not hammered out.

The carrier of the front diff on the earlier? IFS trucks didnt have a needle bearing support. It is a slip fit bushing style support. As far as I know the carrier is done when the carrier wears out as there isnt a bushing to replace. The tolerance was machined right into the carrier from the start. Not sure what the allowable shaft play is... probably a bit of wiggle, but likely not grabbing it and it feels like its a hot dog down a hallway amount of play.

I'm not sure if it was a 4cyl/6cyl change, or a 86-88 and 89-95 change... but I've seen a non needle bearing version, and a needle bearing version. The particual truck I was working on with the slip fit shaft fit up was a 2nd gen pick up with a 4cyl.
 

Zor

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Northern Rockies
Seems like a purpose-built trailer - behind the 80 or Taco - would be a better bet.
Don't you try talking that logic with me (I've seen your build thread). I've considered that a trailer is a much more reasonable option, I've just always wanted a little first gen. As impractical as that sounds, I can't help it. I remember when I was a kid in the 80's I had an Ivan Stewart Baja Hotwheels that was the cat's pajamas. The white one with blocky red/orange/yella stripes. Wanted one ever since. This thing would also double duty as a beater hunting rig and backcountry party wagon for solo trips without the family. Or a bunch of other ways I've justified a $1000 truck in my head. The good news is, as nice as the cab is, I probably can't lose much money if I don't end up doing an engine rebuild and sell it as a project/parts truck. Plus I found a complete front end locally as well as a take off OME setup for all four corners. I'm hoping that OME setup has the mildest lift leaf springs because I really don't want to do put the ball joint spacers in the front. I just know those stock leaves have lost their springiness. They're only holding the rear in place and trying to keep the frame off the axle.

@toyotaboy80 thanks for the input/info on the front end. I've been looking for parts diagrams to try to confirm how that diff goes together and verify what supports the output stubs. I found a complete setup locally (from a dude with a dangerous stash of parts) and told the dude I'd buy it if this deal works out. I'll try to do a little write up if this all goes through.
 

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