Would you use extended shackles (1 Viewer)

[Spudman]

Hi everyone

I've decided to run a poll as I would like your opinions on the use of extended shackles on your 60 series.

Spudman

 

[Crick60]

I love the idea of them but I hate the ride plus they hand out too many canaries for them down here in new south.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Heckraiser]

I would only use them in conjunction with caster shims in the front. I would also only use them to cure tire rubbing issues if you've already tried long add-a-leafs and that didn't fix the problem. I don't believe in messing with the suspension just for looks

It's a cheap way to get a little more tire clearance, but much like a body lift, it doesn't really do much else. I already have had enough trouble bashing stock length shackles in the rocks, so to me, it's something to be avoided if possible. If all you need is a little tire room, and longer shackles is the easiest way to achieve that, then go for it.

 

[lcwizard]

They are necessary with lifted springs . As you add arch to a spring you need to add length to keep the distance between the eyes close to original while the truck sits at rest. If not the shackles invert. I've run extended shackles of varying lengths, depending on the spring, on all my different cruisers for almost 40 years now without any shackle related catastrophes. I do not, however, recommend running them on your 80 series

 

[Devils Paw 80]

I have the Specter "extreme" (they're not extremely long, just really beefy looking) shackles on my 62 without shims. It runs great with no steering issues up to 75+ MPH. Rarely go that fast, but did last summer on one leg of a Canada road trip. It's not much of a lift, really. When I bought it 11 years ago it had some weak looking, longer extended shackles, which prompted the replacement.

 

[dirtEJohnson]

I am with you mate, shopping some shackles and AAL's to beef up my stock springs. I scored some caster shims at the Bakersfield swap-meet on Saturday and gonna give it a go. Not looking for anything too radical, but an extra inch or two of clearance would be nice. Happy to compare notes and results as we go...


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Spudman]

Some very good comments there and varied as well, by the way Wizard mines a 60 series, but I know what you meant

 

[Crick60]

They are necessary with lifted springs . As you add arch to a spring you need to add length to keep the distance between the eyes close to original while the truck sits at rest. If not the shackles invert. I've run extended shackles of varying lengths, depending on the spring, on all my different cruisers for almost 40 years now without any shackle related catastrophes. I do not, however, recommend running them on your 80 series

I've got to challenge that theory, so far as I've experienced shackle inversion comes from badly matched, design, manufactured, reset or poorly maintained springs.
The event that causes inversion is full droop or reversing into an obstacle and in these instances I can not see how a properly designed spring would invert seeing as the distance between the eyes will be manufactured the same as factory if not further apart sure the arch will be greater but the spring rate should compensate to not allow contraction of the arch.
This is only the case when you select the right springs but if you go for second hand, reset or supple light duty springs absolutely go for anti inverters. I think anti inverters and extended shackles should be non negotiable.

Generally speaking extended shackles do not meet many Australian state regulations because they alter the geometry of the suspension and the handling behaviour so if you were to go extended again go for anti inverters and probably something like these superiors:

 

[cullmancruiser]

I needed just a small amount of additional lift after completing my 4BT swap to keep the front diff from hitting the oil pan while wheeling. Unlike most that have done the swap, I kept my rig spring under and modified the oil pan and pickup tube. It was just barely shy of being enough and sometimes the diff would hit the pan slightly while wheeling. One inch longer shackles solved that problem and after alignment my rig drives fine.

 

[niffa]

Got 2" extended anti inversion shackles front and back on standard height springs and she handles not too bad. Flexes up pretty well too all things considered. Allowed me to fit 33's too. Considering a 1" body lift too to fit 35's

 

[lcwizard]

I've got to challenge that theory, so far as I've experienced shackle inversion comes from badly matched, design, manufactured, reset or poorly maintained springs.
The event that causes inversion is full droop or reversing into an obstacle and in these instances I can not see how a properly designed spring would invert seeing as the distance between the eyes will be manufactured the same as factory if not further apart sure the arch will be greater but the spring rate should compensate to not allow contraction of the arch.
This is only the case when you select the right springs but if you go for second hand, reset or supple light duty springs absolutely go for anti inverters. I think anti inverters and extended shackles should be non negotiable.

Generally speaking extended shackles do not meet many Australian state regulations because they alter the geometry of the suspension and the handling behaviour so if you were to go extended again go for anti inverters and probably something like these superiors:

Most of the extended shackles in the USA are anti inversion. I disagree that inversion comes from a poorly designed spring. A leaf spring manufacturer takes many factors into account when designing a spring. One is desired deflection. If you design for maximum deflection ( axle travel ) you would choose you use many leaves of a thinner material vs less leaves of heavier steel. Both will give you the same lift but the pack constructed of heavier stock will generally exhibit less deflection. Currently I have a 4" lift on my spring under FJ60. It has eleven leaves of 6mm steel. I run a shock with 12.5 " travel. I've tested the springs to 14.5" of deflection, 14.5" but I chose to restrict the travel somewhat. With that range of motion a 2" over shackle will lie flat against the frame under compression and invert under droop. It rides like a coil sprung truck.
In contrast , Burbank Spring used to bulld a 2 1/2" lift spring for the FJ40 made from 3 leaves about 7/16~1/2 ea. It worked fine with a stock shackle because they never moved. You could put a floor jack under the right spring , jack it up and both sides came up together. All your suspension was in your tires

 

[cruiserpilot]

I've used them on many vehicles. Old sagging springs, add longer shackle until money arrives for springs. My OME springs and shackles
are an extended shackle - can't fault them in this utilization. Like any modification, especially suspension and steering, how it is performed and
understanding by the user is important. SOA on my FJ40, used 60 springs on the rear and confer shackles about 2" over stock, thing rode
really nice. It is a compromise of what you are trying to achieve sometimes.

 

[theazfj62]

I have what I assume is a 2 inch lift right now and I was thinking about getting the 5 inch shackles from man a free, the only thing that I am concerned about is the towing and snapping a spring. my 62 is my dd and my playtoy. So what do you great people of mud think?

 

[sk8salomon]

on a stock suspension, yes, on SOA, NO...it will ride too high. IMHO, if you want to cheaply add arch/lift to a stock sus., go with AAL's instead.

 

[niffa]

Arch isnt always your friend when it comes to flex, flatter leafs will flex way better than arched ones. Again, all depends what your chasing. Im pretty happy with my setup of 2" shackles and stock springs. Flexes pretty well I think. Handling is a different issue all together haha

 

[Crick60]

Most of the extended shackles in the USA are anti inversion. I disagree that inversion comes from a poorly designed spring. A leaf spring manufacturer takes many factors into account when designing a spring. One is desired deflection. If you design for maximum deflection ( axle travel ) you would choose you use many leaves of a thinner material vs less leaves of heavier steel. Both will give you the same lift but the pack constructed of heavier stock will generally exhibit less deflection. Currently I have a 4" lift on my spring under FJ60. It has eleven leaves of 6mm steel. I run a shock with 12.5 " travel. I've tested the springs to 14.5" of deflection, 14.5" but I chose to restrict the travel somewhat. With that range of motion a 2" over shackle will lie flat against the frame under compression and invert under droop. It rides like a coil sprung truck.

I take your point although at 4 inches with 11 leaves I'm inclined to believe you are geared more toward compression rather than droop and your shocks would be working very hard to maintain a stable ride. At the point you're at I would have begun considering a linkage setup to take some strain off components but it sounds like you're setup pretty sweet

Re the 5" shackle, I've never heard something so absurd.

 

[niffa]

Re the 5" shackle, I've never heard something so absurd.

Agreed...fkn crazy!

 

[Spudman]

Would he mean the shackles are about 5 inches long

 

[theazfj62]

5 inch pin to pin. I think I would get the 6 inch because the ones that are on my truck are 3-3/8 " pin to pin. so If I want to get more then 2" I would have to go with the 6 in pin to pin

link to what I am talking about, it's the bottom one
http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa3/MAFShackleandSpringPinKits.htm

 

[Spudman]

Yep I knew that's what you meant