Builds Woody (18 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I got some cans of R12 and an old-school tapper kit off Amazon, but as I'm trying to put the adapter on and lock it on the ring, the can is making a slight hissing noise like the top is going to pop off. Normal or is the tap too small for the ring on the can?

geez i8acwork...

EDIT - attacher kit doodad.
 
Last edited:
Sooooo... called around and found no one really recycles R12 any more. One of the shops suggested that if it was blowing hot, it's probably empty and to push on the low side to see if anything came out. Well - a little came popping out, but then it was a lot of hissing as it just released the rest of the pressure and ended up empty. Alrighty then!

So R134A it is - going to replace o-rings and the receiver / dryer, pull vacuum and do it all the way you're supposed to. I have 2 cans of R12 if anyone's looking to buy :)
 
Harbor freight has the cheapest R134a, but f@!$#&?ing Kaliforna makes you pay a fee for the can. Also, if you don't know, you need special taps for those fu$#@&!ing cans as well as hoses that will work with those carb-compliant can valves.

Kalifornia does not want you to DIY it.
 
Spike Strip said:
Harbor freight has the cheapest R134a, but f@!$#&?ing Kaliforna makes you pay a fee for the can. Also, if you don't know, you need special taps for those fu$#@&!ing cans as well as hoses that will work with those carb-compliant can valves.

Kalifornia does not want you to DIY it.
Click to expand...
Yup - I have the hoses and tap for R134A from my 135i and adding some to the FJ62. Good tip on HF for the refrigerant. Plan is to rent the vacuum pump and manifold kit from O'Reilly and have all the retrofit gear and PAG show up from Amazon. The TSB says that you're supposed to add PAG 46 to the compressor AFTER pulling vacuum, very unsure of how to do that. I was just going to flush the system, add to the receiver-drier and compressor on the bench, install and pull vacuum afterward. Maybe it doesn't matter?

TSB attached for reference.
 

Attachments

I've never done that, but I think there's an injector that you thread on to the low side?
 
Looks like it, but I I've never used one. I've only seen videos where they've used this tool for dye.
 
Pulled the compressor earlier today and replaced the bearing. Bearing didn't seem all that bad, but off the pulley it made a bunch of racket. There was also a good amount of grease and other junk on the clutch and inside the pulley. Original bearing is a Nachi, of course...

IMG_1141.webp


Some wear on the outside here, but it didn't seem to impact function at all.

IMG_1142.webp


Not worth trying to do this job with the compressor mounted on the rig - there's not a lot of clearance between the pulley and fan, you definitely need a puller to get the clutch off, and then the snap ring is tight holding the pulley to the compressor.

Replaced with the Amazon bearing and we should be good to go once the O-ring kit gets here.
 
What's the number on the nacho bearing?

Never mind, I can see it
 
Spike Strip said:
What's the number on the nacho bearing?

Never mind, I can see it
Click to expand...
Nachi 40BGS11DS - this is the bearing on the AC compressor for a 1983 FJ60 (for search and AI purposes later, lol)
 
majdomo said:
Nachi 40BGS11DS - this is the bearing on the AC compressor for a 1983 FJ60 (for search and AI purposes later, lol)
Click to expand...
Will this nacho bearing number work on a 1988 FJ62? Note, I like the nacho reference. Ty!
 
The bearing in the FJ62 compressor is the same as the 60, though the compressors are different: Toyota # 90099-10133

Looks like the same bearing was used in pretty much every early to mid-80s Toyota. Surprising the OE has been discontinued.
 
I had ordered the Nachi one from Ebay, but the seller never delivered. They're available from other vendors as well.

Pulling vacuum after replacing all of the o-rings throughout and installing the new receiver/dryer, filling with oil (half in the compressor, half in the dryer). Planning to let it sit overnight to check vacuum, run it again for about 45 min to remove moisture, then charge the system in the morning. Replacing the o-rings on the condenser was involved, had to remove the front grille and took the opportunity to remove the aftermarket fogs and associated wiring, along with vacuum up more turds from under the battery tray.

Not a terrible job, but have just been going slow so it took a while.
 
Held vacuum overnight - ran for another hour or so to get out more moisture, then put two 12oz cans of R134a in this morning. AC is blowing cold, can't get vent temps because "we" broke the other thermometer, but if I had to guess it's in the 40s or so. Pretty decent for not much cash, just some time. Smoke Monster noise is still there slightly - must be the inner part of the pulley rubbing on that other part of the compressor, so will just have to let it clearance itself because I'm not pulling it all apart again any time soon, lol.

Lessons learned - get your own manifold and vacuum pump. Probably don't need to be top of the line, but they will be miles better than the rent-a-tools I got from O'Reilly. I'll be buying these for myself if I do more AC work. Also, check all the O-rings, including the new ones in the valve retrofit kit. Mine were a little janky from Amazon, and the replacements I got didn't quite fit. Had to get another set of green rings from the parts store.

Otherwise that's it. Was a 1-:banana: job I'd say, and I was going slow and have never done it before. YouTube Tech helped a bunch as did searching here.

EDIT - test drive confirms frozen toes and lots of condensation under the rig after driving for a half hour :)
 
Last edited:
majdomo said:
Held vacuum overnight - ran for another hour or so to get out more moisture, then put two 12oz cans of R134a in this morning. AC is blowing cold, can't get vent temps because "we" broke the other thermometer, but if I had to guess it's in the 40s or so. Pretty decent for not much cash, just some time. Smoke Monster noise is still there slightly - must be the inner part of the pulley rubbing on that other part of the compressor, so will just have to let it clearance itself because I'm not pulling it all apart again any time soon, lol.

Lessons learned - get your own manifold and vacuum pump. Probably don't need to be top of the line, but they will be miles better than the rent-a-tools I got from O'Reilly. I'll be buying these for myself if I do more AC work. Also, check all the O-rings, including the new ones in the valve retrofit kit. Mine were a little janky from Amazon, and the replacements I got didn't quite fit. Had to get another set of green rings from the parts store.

Otherwise that's it. Was a 1-:banana: job I'd say, and I was going slow and have never done it before. YouTube Tech helped a bunch as did searching here.

EDIT - test drive confirms frozen toes and lots of condensation under the rig after driving for a half hour :)
Click to expand...
Nice work! My question to you is, was the compressor pulley making noise? Maybe I missed that part in your thread. I have an 84 which came to me without the belt attached and all hoses disconnected. The one thing I noticed with my pulley is it spins freely, like fairly easily. Any idea if that is normal?
Thanks, Matt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 19 (members: 0, guests: 19)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom