Woodbineman's FJ62 refresh to stock in BC

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Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Threads
19
Messages
159
Location
North Vancouver BC
Long time listener, first time caller. Using this to track the progress of my FJ62 refresh into a daily driver. Quick history, I am a long time Toyota fan (amongst many other classics) and own a sweet 1995 Tacoma LX pickup (3RZ, manual hubs, 5 spd) that I've had for 12 years and that I use around the house. I recently owned a 2012 Tacoma TRD double cab since new but have sold it to get an FJ62 - I travel a lot for work and as such my truck is an airport ornament. When I am back home (every weekend) I ski, mountain bike and craft in my garage so a suitable weekend mobile was needed. A LC was an easy choice, but needed to be vintage enough so I could eventually put it on what they call "collector plates" here in North Vancouver BC So a couple of months ago I picked up a rust free FJ62 from Arizona.

Here is a few pictures of when I got it (from the PO).
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First thing to do was to address the peeling clear coat on the roof and the hood. I also totally steam cleaned the interior and took off the old tinted windows. The roof had the beginning of some rust in the gutters, so a complete gutter resto is in progress. The idea of this build is to leave everything stock and restore with mild mods if necessary (eg. new springs will be OME and I'd like a nicer center console).

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Slow progress, but got a couple of hours in yesterday to finish sanding the hood and cowl....it's the cowl details plus the underside around the windshield gasket that take forever. I may just take the w/s out.

Nice bonus that I found/realized after I bought the truck is that instead of the sealed beams it has CIBIE's up front. Wiring is a bit messy, but they are nice and bright.

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Can anyone help me with the "how to" on removing the rear side and rear windows? I am at the stage of stripping the truck for paint (booth booked in two weeks, paint bought!). I can't seem to figure out if I should fold the seal on the inside of the truck and push out or if I should work from the outside and dig the window out.... I've been searching for days here and there but I can't seem to come to a definitive answer and I don't feel like breaking my side window.
 
Welcome to the Cruiser madness! Go to this site: http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php
Has all the manuals for your Landcruiser. Chassis-Body 84-90 will have detailed instructions for removing the windows.
Have fun!
 
Freewheel....thanks, I'll check it out. Above is my progress so far....can you say scope creep? Last night I also rebuilt the hinges and started prepping the door jambs. I love working with no rust!
 
Congratulations on a great looking 62
 
Peel the rubber back from the inside and push to remove the rear windows. Do not mess up the chrome expansion lock
on the outside. I suggest you start in a corner and work your way out. Nice truck, keep the pics coming.
Steve is a local Land Cruiser guy if you need stuff - http://www.extremebends.com/
 
"Scope creep" just means that you care about what you are doing! And congratulations on the rust free-ness. After you finish this paint job, start thinking about how to keep that truck rust free - Duncan Autobody in Squamish does a non toxic oil spray called Krown Treatment that has kept my Canadian Cruiser rust free for years. It's a bit messy, and can damage Landcruiser door seals (makes them a bit soft and loose), but definitely effective. I have my truck sprayed once a year in the late fall. Lordco has cans of Krown for touchups. The nice thing about Krown is that it will stop surface rust from turning into something worse. If you spray rubber undercoating onto surface rust, you can be hiding the progress of the evil...

If you do nothing, you will have rust starting the first time you drive it in the salt. But I think you know that already...
 
Thanks very much for the video, I just saw it now but I got the windows out the same way - I used plastic bike tire levers and some lube, worked great.

Yes, I'm on the same page as you on the rust proofing - already bought a cavity wax injecton gun with different nozzles and couple of different profesional waxes for the job. I've also got some Eastwood internal frame coating paint to preserve the frame.

Thanks for the help again.
 
Team, quick pic update on project scope creep and a question. I've removed all the glass (front including....called to confirm that they are in stock first!...$410 installed locally btw) and took all the doors and lower hatch off. LHS of truck, roof and hood are 95% prepped for primer and paint. I'm working on the upper hatch now. Question is: has anyone removed the wires? Which way did you pull them? Out of the body or out of the hatch? Both sides seem like they will be a major pain to install later. Thoughts?

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FYI for others having this question. Once you pull your wires, you will likely see that they are thrashed right at the junction and have to be repaired anyway. I pulled out of both as I am painting the tailgate inside/out anyway.

I'm not the best with automovive electrics, but has anyone used any trick methods? I was thinking that since I will be effectivley rebuilding the two harnesses (one is the lock mechanism and other is wiper/squirter and rear window defroster) I may add a small plug for lights that I may want to mount eventually on my roofrack.....maybe a nice automotive OEM connector (weatherpac etc.). I was thinking of doing the same when I mount my front offroad lights. I have an aluminum trailer with brakes as well (#3500) and want to do a nice proper job of mounting a trailer plug (7 pin) and a switched backup light that I can turn on when working to hook up trailer back there. I was thinking of mounting somewhere such as to conceal it.

Anyone have a backup camera? I have to admit that I loved it on my Tacoma for hooking up a trailer and my wife drives my trucks all the time which makes it easy. The Tacoma mirrors(rear view) incorporate a screen which could likely be a nice concealed way to install this. thoughts?
 
Quick update, I've been posting on the paint and body side a little, but here is the latest. I'm finished with the LHS and rear tailgate opening - taped and ready for primer. I've got to weld up some pinholes in the roof as well as the base of the top hatch. I am looking for suggestions - was going to put copper (once I remove the headliner) as backing, cool with shop air and work my way accross with my MIG. Anyone do this?
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After a long hiatus (you know the story - jobs, businesses, house construction) I'm back and determined to get the LC painted this year! It's finally in the shop now with primer. All the roof welding (minor) is complete and the tiny rust hole in the floor taken car of. Should be in color by next week.
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I've also got a new headliner for it, my next challenge is figure out what to put back on the roof and floor in terms of sound deadening. I plan on using the close to standard felt on the floor under the carpet (just because I have two rolls already from a prior project), but am wondering about the roof - any ideas? I don't want to necessarily spend a ton of cash where I don't think I need to. What have you guys who have done this used?
 
Few different options out there, believe that Second Skin has come up with a roof insulator, there is always jute or MLV panels that you can throw up. Really up to you and your pocket book.
 

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