Dang, what a bummer!
Builds Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild Now Part II! (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wompom
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Hard to tell on my phone but the exhaust valves look a little deep and the intake look shallow. Time to pull them and see where they meet up on the valve seals. Who did the head work?
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- #183
Yeah, that’s what I thought too.
The local shop that’s generally highly recommended. Action machine on aurora in Seattle.
Planning on pulling them tomorrow after work.
I also want to go back and look at the photos right after the work was done originally.
If you are considering a different machine shop I would recommend talking to Autosport Seattle in Ballard. The machinist there knows Toyota and does a lot of the machine work for the local Toyota dealers. I had my Land Cruiser head done there and so far all is good. I did have to push a few times to get the work completed after I dropped off the head.
I heard good things about autosport as welI and spoke with them about doing my machine work but went with Chuck and his team at C&D machine in kirkland though as they could get me in and I've used them in the past on my toyota 2jz stuff. Chuck knows what he's doing over there. Those exhaust valves do kind of looks a bit recessed.. I wonder what the seats look like. Do you know what the valve lash was at when you pulled the head or what it was when you installed it fresh?
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- #186
So this morning I checked the head the alcohol was gone in 6 and 3 and mostly gone in the other 4.
I did find my old machine shop paperwork. Here’s where I’m confused. The hand written one has the appropriate values of clearance. The typed one is incorrect. I'm unsure if that was final or the initial before changing shims.
Will be pulling the valves today.
I did find my old machine shop paperwork. Here’s where I’m confused. The hand written one has the appropriate values of clearance. The typed one is incorrect. I'm unsure if that was final or the initial before changing shims.
Will be pulling the valves today.
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Is that a metal lip I'm seeing on those exhaust valves or is it carbon. Looks like metal to me. I bet those things got cooked. I'm also curious as to what kind of timing the stock ecu is running under boost... honestly I feel like running these things nonintercooled with stock valves and a non configurable ecu is just asking for trouble in the long run unless its running race fuel or alcohol.. do you spend lots of time climbing hills or in boost?
Here's a good watch.. also look up headgames on yt for excellent content on turbo cylinder heads and machine work
Here's a good watch.. also look up headgames on yt for excellent content on turbo cylinder heads and machine work
Yep intake too shallow and exhaust way too deep. Those exhaust valves are totally shot.
- Thread starter
- #192
yeah, so think that the machine shop did this improperly or just fried over time and caused it somehow?
Unsure how to move forward. Guess take the head to get checked out.
- Thread starter
- #193
Ex. Valves almost all have a lip on top. thinking not normal.
Now the question is why did it happen, and how to avoid. Rebuild with oem, or upgrade valvetrain but no idea about that stuff for cruisers. Also determine if this head is salvageable or if I need to find a new one.
hard to say why it happened but if the shop didn't cut the seats properly that could have started the issue... along with a host of other factors, including the fact that this is turbo charged now and you are putting a lot more heat on the exhaust valves now. The turbine is trapping lots of heat in the exhaust now that it's in the way, then you have the fact that you are pushing your iat's sky high with out an intercooler. figure 200-250f maybe more depending on how long you are on the gas and that is increasing the combustion temp which means more heat than stock in the exhaust and cylinder in general. now pile all that extra heat on to valves and valve seats not cut concentric with each other and you get burned valves. the exhaust valves only get cooled by contact to the valve seat and the valve guides.. the intake valves are lucky enough to get fuel and "cold" air running over them. Then you have lash, if lash is too tight the valves won't contact the seat or won't contact long enough to transfer the heat to the head, i'd shoot for the middle to looser end of lash on the exhaust to give them the most possible seat time. Another issue which i don't really think you might be running into is valve float which just causes the valves to bash up and down in a non controlled fashion beating up the seat, this happens when your spring is too weak and wont allow the valve/lifter to actually follow the cam, but maybe you have old weak springs? one thing i noticed was that in the beginning of your thread you mentioned you had issues with the same cylinders correct? 3 and 6? what is the condition of the fuel injectors? old? cleaned and flowed before you went turbo? the shop you take the head to needs to know what you plan on doing with the engine and how it's set up to recommend the proper services. I recommend chuck at C&D in kirkland go talk to him and tell him exactly your plans and he can guide you. my other question was how do you drive this thing? the new found power is great i get it but are you flogging up the mountain passes or even on the flat ground for an extended period? yes these things can take boost but i feel like especially in the non intercooled setups you need to be very careful how long you are on that gas pedal or things will heat up very fast and get out of hand quickly on stock engine parts. i'm also not in the camp of believing that the 90's toyota ecu tech is a great of safe way of running these things turbocharged.. does it work? yeah it might but does it do it safely? probably not enough to last a long time when run hard. Any way, lots to break down but i think first you need to get the head to a competitant shop that knows what you want to do, then address the other issues, and yes there are upgrades that can be done, upgraded valve material and guides, but those won't fix a seat and valve that aren't cut to match each other, and all the other items relating to heat above that i mentioned..
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- #195
Only had time to pull two caps last night. Cyl 3 & 4 rods. It was an ambient 15* in the garage but it shouldn’t affect the readings that much considering the thermal expansion properties. Looks like I have major over clearance on the rod bearings.
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- #196
as of today I have ordered a new short block, head, and various engine parts. Rebuilding a new 1fz with a cometic mls. Going to figure out an airwater intercooler setup. Also doing tcase gears, shift kit, and all suspension bushings and body mounts. Needs to be on road by the middle of June. Here we go.
