ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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Ok, I've edited the posts and think I have it corrected now. 30A fuse in the red inline fuse holder at the battery and 20A fuse in the air manifold fuse holder. 4A fuse is used for wiring up the switch which I have still to do but now that I know it all works can work on that next.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #463
It was bound to happen. I overlooked something. For those that have the Wits’ End York OBA mod on your 1FZ Land Cruiser, a potential headache was found. This may affect only those from the batch last year but I’m posting up so that everyone can take a look at their setups to verify they aren’t at risk.
On the idler pulley there is a bolt that controls the belt adjustment on top. That bolt is long enough to reach the bottom of the bracket but does still out below it.
The issue is the bottom length of that bolt *COULD* potentially come in contact with the thermostat’s throttle body coolant hose. Over time this could damage the hose and cause it to fail.
If you have the capabilities to id recommend just removing the bolt and cutting off 10mm from the threads. That would eliminate the issue.
For those that don’t have the resources to make the bolt modification, and feel you need it, please contact me and I will send you a shortened bolt.
On the idler pulley there is a bolt that controls the belt adjustment on top. That bolt is long enough to reach the bottom of the bracket but does still out below it.
The issue is the bottom length of that bolt *COULD* potentially come in contact with the thermostat’s throttle body coolant hose. Over time this could damage the hose and cause it to fail.
If you have the capabilities to id recommend just removing the bolt and cutting off 10mm from the threads. That would eliminate the issue.
For those that don’t have the resources to make the bolt modification, and feel you need it, please contact me and I will send you a shortened bolt.
Thanks for posting this Joey, I'll go take a look. Hoping to get the final wiring finished today. Just want to make sure I am thinking correctly that the 4A fuse holder (for the switch on the manifold) should be mounted close to the battery or should it be close to the switch? I am guessing battery but want to verify before I start making connections.
And another dumb question. As far as where to pull power from can I just take power directly from the battery terminal. The wiring diagram on the first page has it connected to a power source connected to the ingition switch. Were would be the best place to tie into that without splicing wires? I would prefer to attach to the power with a bolt on eye or spade connector.
And another dumb question. As far as where to pull power from can I just take power directly from the battery terminal. The wiring diagram on the first page has it connected to a power source connected to the ingition switch. Were would be the best place to tie into that without splicing wires? I would prefer to attach to the power with a bolt on eye or spade connector.
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Fuse should definitely be closest to the battery.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #466
Finally got the #York210 #OBA set up the way I wanted. Just took way longer than expected because so many other pieces needed to be in place first.
The York is of course belt driven but is turned on via a switch on the SwitchPro on the dash. It turns on the clutch which starts the action.
The plumbing goes from the factory air cleaner for clean/filtered air then is compressed and sent to the coelescing filter to have oil and condensation removed. From there it goes thru an unloader (check valve) and into the custom air manifold.
The manifold houses the liquid filled gauge along with the low pressure switch, safety valve, and then is sent out via an air coupler. Eventually it’ll go to an air tank but trying to decide where that should go first.
The cycling is the safety valve and cycling doing its job. If there is an air tank it wouldn’t cycle as often.
At idle it’s about the same CFM as an ARB twin. At about 2000rpm it’s at around 9.5CFM and will air up all four 35s in a few mins per tire
The York is of course belt driven but is turned on via a switch on the SwitchPro on the dash. It turns on the clutch which starts the action.
The plumbing goes from the factory air cleaner for clean/filtered air then is compressed and sent to the coelescing filter to have oil and condensation removed. From there it goes thru an unloader (check valve) and into the custom air manifold.
The manifold houses the liquid filled gauge along with the low pressure switch, safety valve, and then is sent out via an air coupler. Eventually it’ll go to an air tank but trying to decide where that should go first.
The cycling is the safety valve and cycling doing its job. If there is an air tank it wouldn’t cycle as often.
At idle it’s about the same CFM as an ARB twin. At about 2000rpm it’s at around 9.5CFM and will air up all four 35s in a few mins per tire
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Perfect time to design a bracket for under the driver side side step area so that I can finally mount my tank too
. You know that is where you want to mount it 
.
I will prob end up tucking mine behind the ARB bumper. It sure what size will fit yet, but there seems to be a decent amount of room.
I'm using a 2 gal Kenworth air brake tank under the driver's side and also plumbed it into the sliders. Probably 10 gallons total capacity. My pump doesn't cycle much. The Kenworth tank is short and stubby so would likely work with a lot of different slider configurations.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #475
Just added NITTO Hi-Flow coupler pacifiers you the growing list of air coupler plugs:
absolute-wits-end.com
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers (ACP-NITTO)
Reminded myself today how awesome the york 210 is. After my headgasket job didnt reinstall the york as I made sure everything was worjking and was just using my VIAR 450. After my first trail run put it back in and what a difference. Took probably 1/4 of the time to refill the 40's.
Hey. This is just an fyi. Most of you are probably well aware, but make sure your air fittings all match. I bought some "flexzilla" couplers for my trim compressor and finish guns, I forgot to change one end on a spare hose I had and it does not play well with the "high-flow" ends. It boils down to having the o-rings seat in slightly different spots. The guns still work, but the hiss causes a constant cycle on the compressor. I know I'm talking carpentry tools, but the same rule should apply for automotive stuff.
Where are most folks sourcing their 210s? I have York/ARB OBA on my 40. After replacing all the lines and getting it back up to speed, I can't get the compressor to air my tires beyond 20 psi. I have had the recommendation to add a hand idle as the compressor will work if the idle is increased. I've had the compressor checked out and the shop felt it was working properly and would put out enough pressure. I'm open to ideas and wondered if finding a replacement York would help.
I got my york off ebay. There are a few different versions out there so make sure you get the one that matches your setup. I think the hand throttle is a must especially if you don't have someone to feather the throttle for you.
The OEM throttle is fine so long as it is used correctly.
The OEM throttle is fine so long as it is used correctly.
You can purchase a rebuild kit for the York that includes a new valve plate. It sounds like the back pressure on the output is keeping a valve open.
Typically on an OBA system the compressor fills a tank through an anti-backflow valve to reduce the back pressure on the compressor.
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