ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion

[JaketheSSnake]

I had a friend help me out wiring this thing up.

It came down to 2 things.

There was no 2nd wire going to the switch.
View attachment 1980317

I used an inline wire-adder gizmo connector to splice into power.
No sure if that’s the “proper” way, but it works.
Maybe Joey can chime in on that.
View attachment 1980320


2nd was I needed to install a damn fuse.
In my defense. I added the fuse to the positive battery wire & figured that was it.
Without the fuse here, there is no continuity.
View attachment 1980321

Powered now!

View attachment 1980322

Most people run an in dash switch to that particular switch. That way you can leave the manifold switch on and turn the system on and off without having to pop the hood. Otherwise you could run a hot wire from anywhere (obviously needs a fuse) and just use the underhood switch like you're doing.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Also, I'm guessing that brass pinhole is leaking because the fitting isn't tight enough. I'm not exactly sure what their purpose is, but I had that problem on a nitrous fitting in my Camaro and I just tightened it to make it stop.

 

[jjdeneen918]

It’s simply not just an adapter.

I don’t see how tightening will plug the hole.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Weird. It's been awhile since I messed with mine but I don't remember it leaking there. You can't tighten the main brass body against that fitting at all, or is it all 1 piece?

 

[jjdeneen918]

Brass part is all one piece.

 

[Shipwreck]

I believe the brass fitting is a one-way unloader valve. There is a diaphragm that prevents back flow of pressure to the compressor. The pinhole vents air to remove pressure from the compressor so that it is not in a pressurized state the next time it cycles on.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I believe the brass fitting is a one-way unloader valve. There is a diaphragm that prevents back flow of pressure to the compressor. The pinhole vents air to remove pressure from the compressor so that it is not in a pressurized state the next time it cycles on.

Yes, exactly. Thank you.

Thank you Joey for the quick reply is text too.

 

[cahill]

Another quick wiring question....don't want to screw things up as I am an electrical novice. Can I connect the wire for the manifold directly to the battery post as indicated on page 1? Also is the red thing on the wire the 30A fuse noted in the diagram?

View attachment 1247168

 

[NLXTACY]

Another quick wiring question....don't want to screw things up as I am an electrical novice. Can I connect the wire for the manifold directly to the battery post as indicated on page 1? Also is the red thing on the wire the 30A fuse noted in the diagram?

View attachment 2228063

Yes and yes. To battery positive. There is no fuse in the holder.

 

[cahill]

Yes and yes. To battery positive. There is no fuse in the holder.

Thanks Joey, another quick question - What is the holder for? Am I supposed to put a 30A fuse in it or do I just run it as is?

 

[Dubbinchris]

Thanks Joey, another quick question - What is the holder for? Am I supposed to put a 30A fuse in it or do I just run it as is?

Power will not pass through it without a fuse.

 

[cahill]

Thanks, that is what I was thinking once I learned it was a fuse holder but considering I didn't know what it was at the begining I figured I'd better make sure . I will blame my confusion on how simple the install is. Joey has litterally made it as plug and play as you can get. Connect the ground wires, install a fuse and connect the power - simple, clean and efficient. Thanks Joey .

 

[cahill]

Well....maybe I spoke too soon. I am sure it is something quite simple but after adding a 30A fuse and connecting the power to the battery I still get nada when turning on the switch at the manifold. Changed out the ground bolt incase it had a coating that was preventing a good ground but still no go. The switch on the manifold only has 1 wire connected to it. Should it have 2? Also if this is not the right thread for this, let me know. I can confidently say this is operator error on my part and don't want any of this to reflect poorly on the product.

1st photos is how I connected to the terminal on the battery, 2nd photo is the ground, 3rd is the prong under the switch on the manifold that I mentioned above.

 

[cahill]

Ok...I just got off the phone with Joey and think I know why it doesn't have power. Looking back at pg 22 with @jjdeneen918 's post I should have figured it out as he already adressed the problem. His connector was different than mine and thought that is what he was adressing but on closer reading it looks like he points out where I failed.

There are 2 fuses that need to be installed. 1 is on the main power wire that connnects to the positive terminal on the battery. The other is in the wire that connects to the york. I missed that one too as it is a hidden little bugger. I also need to provide power to the rocker switch pointed out with the arrow above. Hopefully I'll get it up an running and when I do will post photos to make the explanation clearer.

 

[cahill]

So, just went out the Land Cruiser to do a quick test to make sure I understood @NLXTACY's instructions and wiring and sure enough....it works . I'll post up photos here just incase anyone else needs to reference it or incase I need to reference it later when I've forgotten where the fuses are hidden etc.

In summary there are 2 fuse holders in the wiring sytem Joey has provided with the manifold. The 1st is a bit more obvious and is the red inline fuse holder that is in the line that connects to the positive terminal on the battery. I think it is supposed to take a (Edit: 30A fuse) if I understood things correctly.

 

[cahill]

There is a secon fuse that is underneath the manifold and is hidden in a fuse holder that I had mistaken for some sort of electrical connector or solenoid. It takes a (Edit: 20A fuse) I think. (Edit: as Joey points out in the post below he does nicely silk screen an arrow pointing to the fuse holder as shown in the 1st and second photo below)

 

[NLXTACY]

@cahill no it takes the 20 or 25A fuse in there. The fuse location is silkscreened on the face of the bracket

the 4A is for the switch

 

[cahill]

Also the on/off switch needs to have power as well. Just to test the system prior to making a more permanent wiring solution I just made some aligator clip wirining and connected the positive terminal of the battery to the open post on the switch. Sure enough, it works just fine. Flicking the switch without the vehicle on creates a good click at the York where the magnetic clutch engages. With the vehicle running it pumps air - and spits some oil since I hadn't tightened it all down yet. I'll make a more permanent wiring solution with an inline fuse to the switch (I am guessing that it is overkill) but it shouldn't hurt anything.

I didn't address the ground wires but they are pretty straight forward and should be self explanatory I hope. I just bolted mine to the inner fender on the engine bay by the compressor manifold and washer bottle.

 

[cahill]

@cahill no it takes the 20 or 25A fuse in there. The fuse location is silkscreened on the face of the bracket

the 4A is for the switch

See, I knew I could still mess things up. Just for clarification - the 20 or 25A fuse goes in the red inline fuse holder or the holder on the manifold?

 

[NLXTACY]

See, I knew I could still mess things up. Just for clarification - the 20 or 25A fuse goes in the red inline fuse holder or the holder on the manifold?

it’s for the York so the holder in the bracket