Im driving it, but I want 7lbs of boost.....she is beautiful, but she is a bit overweight. At 8,200lbs I need al the boost I can get.
Wits End Turbo Owners (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter spyduh
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That is not how this kit works, there is no boost controller. There will be a difference in boost between cold and dense air in the winter and hot and thin air in the summer. Boost is a function of overcoming spring pressure with backpressure and atmospheric pressure.
I realize there is no boost controller, thus the spring is essentially it. There is certainly an issue at hand. By clamping off the waste gate hose and rallying it, the boost should instantly go up and past the 7lbs mark, not bleed off and dissipate. This is the clue that something isnt right
Not correct the spring will open when backpressure passes the spring pressure that is why when you pinch it off it is only 4-5.5psi. You are not clamping the wastegate closed, so you should not see boost instantly go up and past 7psi. You can swap in a stiffer spring if you are willing to watch the AFR's and knock closely.
ok, if its a spring stiffness issue, wouldn't it be more simple to purchase one of those dials I splice in the middle of the waste gate hose... this would ensure a perfect dialing in of 7lbs correct?
No it wouldn't it would still change with the seasons, you could dial it up in the summer and down in the winter. But 1 psi is going to be about 9hp, so it is up to you if the risk of messing with it is worth it.
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
In my experience having owned turbo'd diesels and gasoline engines, I have noticed boost is a matter of supply and demand, under normal driving I rarely see full boost until you actually need it. Unless your driving it like you stole it all the time you will not see 7 lbs all the time. If there is a problem I would say check simple stuff first odds are againest hardware (waste gate, turbo) problem I would get another gauge (get different brand) and check that first. Or you can plumb in a AEM boost controller (TRU Boost) and turn it up till it melts.... not suggested. The TRU Boost system is really cool but expensive and works with current dump valve,you don't have to do anything to it except hook up hoses then tune thru gauge. Good luck
Here are a few threads about manual boost controller's overboosting in cold weather. I had to make a system that would be safe for almost all instances, that means in cold weather you get the 7psi and in hot weather you get a touch less. That is why I said just drive it. It is safe now, and if people start making changes there is no saying what could happen, if they forget to change it back or they get boost gready
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Ok, I understand now. Thank you. I’m used to a piggy back system on turbos regulating things. It makes sense that this is a safety built in for different temps. 
. I’ll just drive it.
. I’ll just drive it.
Yeah on this system ideally you could use a stand alone system to control, boost, timing, and fueling but that’s an added a level of complexity and cost that we didn’t think most people would want. It would almost double the cost of the system once you add dyno tuning time, wiring, etc.Ok, I understand now. Thank you. I’m used to a piggy back system on turbos regulating things. It makes sense that this is a safety built in for different temps.
So the plan was to offer a “TRD like” system with high quality components and safety.
I ran this "boost controller" on my Volvo 940 wagon back in the day. Very effective until I broke my driveshaft!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
To be fair, this is your own fault. You could be suffering endlessly right along with me. But no, you chose peace and serenity.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Sorry I’m late to this. Scotty already detailed this and I had a conversation with Mike earlier today.
Hey everyone, I'm looking for some ideas of where I should start my diagnostic. Just got my turbo all up and running, I also installed a Speedhut AFR and boost gauges. I've done a decent amount of PM and this truck has sub 100k miles on it. Set my timing at idle to 3 degrees and when i get into boost, say above 2, My AFR drops suddenly into the 10's and I get pinging. I got nervous with the pings so I adjusted timing to 12 and that cured it until I get a bit higher in boost, closer to 4-5, but I know I'm supposed to have it at 3 per Joey.
I don't want to provide TMI but I'm sure some additional context would be helpful. One thing that's happened during turbo install is my evap canister clogged up, so I have one arriving tomorrow to swap in until I can refresh the OEM canister. I have not done the FPR or knock sensors yet. I did notice after trying to triage this and flogging it a little one of the EGR hoses would blow off the bottom of the EGR vacuum modulator, so I had to hose clamp that one on. Honestly I have not a clue if that is somehow related.
I'm trying to find a smoker to see if I can't find leaks, but the intake hoses / vacuum lines are all pretty fresh. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated...
I don't want to provide TMI but I'm sure some additional context would be helpful. One thing that's happened during turbo install is my evap canister clogged up, so I have one arriving tomorrow to swap in until I can refresh the OEM canister. I have not done the FPR or knock sensors yet. I did notice after trying to triage this and flogging it a little one of the EGR hoses would blow off the bottom of the EGR vacuum modulator, so I had to hose clamp that one on. Honestly I have not a clue if that is somehow related.
I'm trying to find a smoker to see if I can't find leaks, but the intake hoses / vacuum lines are all pretty fresh. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated...
Probably a dumb question, are you running premium?
It’s a good question. Yes I am.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
You mentioned set timing to 3° “Timing at idle”. Did you jumped T1/E1 and put into diagnostic mode first? I’ve seen a handful forget those step.
Also having bad knock sensors isnt out of the realm of possibility especially if old or if replaced with non-OEM.
My own turbo popped the hose of the modulator. A clamp fixed that and no issues since.
Also having bad knock sensors isnt out of the realm of possibility especially if old or if replaced with non-OEM.
My own turbo popped the hose of the modulator. A clamp fixed that and no issues since.
Yep. We jumped the diagnostic connector before setting. They’re definitely the original knock sensors.
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