Wits End Turbo Owners (8 Viewers)

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My truck was a weekend wheeler and I knew it consumed oil, but didn’t care. Now it has been my daily for almost 2 years or so? I stopped tracking fuel fill-ups and moved to tracking oil fill-ups. I am averaging 1qt every 500-650 miles.

Is it “necessary“ to address this for a turbo install? If it is, I will save for a head rebuild and a short block. If not, I will just keep adding oil, as the truck runs fantastic.
 
My truck was a weekend wheeler and I knew it consumed oil, but didn’t care. Now it has been my daily for almost 2 years or so? I stopped tracking fuel fill-ups and moved to tracking oil fill-ups. I am averaging 1qt every 500-650 miles.

Is it “necessary“ to address this for a turbo install? If it is, I will save for a head rebuild and a short block. If not, I will just keep adding oil, as the truck runs fantastic.
There are really only two schools of thought:

1) Slap it on and wait for it to be a problem. Impossible to say when, could be years before it becomes an issue, could be days.

2) Do a full rebuild or at least a full reseal preemptively to guarantee reliability.

Which way you go depends on your specific truck, budget and risk adverseness. If I were in your shoes I'd probably just slap it on and run with it for a while and see what I've got, then go from there.
 
I turbo'd mine with about 315k miles and oil consumption around a quart per 1500 miles, both leaks and valve stems I suspect. No ill effects were experienced specifically related to the oil consumption. With the exception of two rather catastrophic "user error" incidents, oil consumption remained about the same as far as I could tell.

I took the git'r done approach and it worked fine for me. Now I'm a little older and have a little more money to my name and I'm giving the thought of a pre-emptive head gasket and valve job some serious thought.

To me, a quart every other fill up seems worth fixing.
 
I went down the middle, having rebuilt my top end with boost in mind, though originally in the form of the TRD supercharger.
Then Joey dropped his bomb and I’m really glad it did it right while the head was off...
 
I’ve listed my turbo kit in classified engine parts, in the middle of building an in-law suite and just not getting to the build.

B8254302-C893-4457-BA04-98D9D1CDBDF7.jpeg

 
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The issue @NLXTACY posted on the oil return line being too close to the downpipe could have happened to me but I checked it out today and my insulation is still in tact. The line is about 1/4" away from the pipe and is routed outside the AC line down to the oil pan. I tried to loosen the line to angle it further away from the downpipe but I can't get it to budge (I tightened it on the bench before I mounted the turbo). I have one of those 10AN wrenches but it's just too tight both in terms of torque and space. So, my questions are:

  1. Is 1/4" far enough away or no?
  2. If I do need to break that fitting loose, am I likely to need to separate the turbo from the downpipe or is there a tool someone can recommend to get to that fitting?
  3. If the turbo has to come off, are the nuts ruined or reusable?

Pics to tell the story:

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
 
I wouldn't be too worried if there is some air gap between them. 1/4" is not bad. On my homemade setup I actually had to grind off some of the t4 flange to clear the -AN fitting for my drain line. But I also don't like the circuituitous route of your oil drain, the way it points towards the block coming out of the turbo, then bends fender and bends back to the block. Ideally, it should be as much of a straight down shot as possible.

This may or may not turn out to be more of a pain in the ass, but before removing the oil return, I would first attempt loosening the clocking bolts on the compressor and turbine housings, and rotating the center section a little bit to point the oil drain more towards the passenger fender. In my experience the turbo has to be off the truck to properly screw the oil return line on/off, so it's worth a try.

I installed and removed my turbo a handful of times and never replaced the fasteners, so I think you're OK to reuse them.
 
Thanks @Heckraiser and @NLXTACY, I fixed it. Sadly, I had to pull the turbo to do so as I couldn't get a wrench to bite on the drain fitting even by clocking the turbo over to get at it. It's all back together and the test drive went ok so I'm gonna have a beer and hope I did it right!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
 
Joey, what’s the status of the CARB (smog) certification? ??

Ive asked several times times now with no response.
 
I just smogged my 80 so I'm clear for 2 years now. Turbo install going down this weekend! I've read the entire thread a few times. I read the instructions, inventoried all the parts and set aside all the tools I need.

The only part that concerns me is the "downpipe -> reducer -> cat" cutting and welding. I have no experience fab'ing but I have flux welded few times and didn't just burn through the square tube which was pretty thin-wall.
 
I just smogged my 80 so I'm clear for 2 years now. Turbo install going down this weekend! I've read the entire thread a few times. I read the instructions, inventoried all the parts and set aside all the tools I need.

The only part that concerns me is the "downpipe -> reducer -> cat" cutting and welding. I have no experience fab'ing but I have flux welded few times and didn't just burn through the square tube which was pretty thin-wall.

or do what I did, drive down to the exhaust shop with a missing hood and open pipes. It's quite exhilarating I tell you what! :hillbilly:

I have done exhaust welding on my 80 but I HATE doing it. I can weld upside down all day but w/o having a lift, lying down with tight spaces is plain aggravating.

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Yeah, welding exhaust pipe is hard to get right without putting any pin-holes in the pipes. If you're a novice welder, I would take it to the exhaust shop.
 
Thanks for feedback, you convinced me to take it a local shop to get that finished up.

@alia176 - Did you take the hood off just in case exhaust heat was being trapped in the engine bay since downpipe is short?
 
This trip to the exhaust shop has been the main delay installing my turbo. I'm figuring I'll have to trailer the truck to town somehow to have someone bugger weld it as we don't have anything resembling a speed shop in Durango.
 
This trip to the exhaust shop has been the main delay installing my turbo. I'm figuring I'll have to trailer the truck to town somehow to have someone bugger weld it as we don't have anything resembling a speed shop in Durango.

How long is your drive to exhaust shop?

I can’t imagine a 10-20 mile drive with the Downpipe dumping straight out would be detrimental as long as the hot exhaust gas is not pointed at anything important.

If anything you’ll be amazed at how quickly the turbo spools up without any back pressure 🤣
 
I worked on the turbo project with the hood off, it made life a lot easier. Also removed both front wheels and lowered her all the way to the ground, practically.

1619639577178.png

Thanks for feedback, you convinced me to take it a local shop to get that finished up.

@alia176 - Did you take the hood off just in case exhaust heat was being trapped in the engine bay since downpipe is short?
 
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I worked on the turbo project with the hood off, it made life a lot easier. Also removed both front wheels and lowered her all the way to the ground, practically.
That’s a great idea. I was planning on buying a (3) 24” platforms to set around the front end so I’m up higher
 
How long is your drive to exhaust shop?

I can’t imagine a 10-20 mile drive with the Downpipe dumping straight out would be detrimental as long as the hot exhaust gas is not pointed at anything important.

If anything you’ll be amazed at how quickly the turbo spools up without any back pressure 🤣

I’m going to look for some flex pipe as a temp solution for the drive.
 
I’m going to look for some flex pipe as a temp solution for the drive.
oh COME ON, open pipes all the way to ABQ exhaust shop from Durango :hillbilly:
 
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