Wits End Turbo Owners (18 Viewers)

[CJK]

I’ve been driving around and system is running great. At ambient temp of low 70’s and cruising at 2300rpm (75mph), intake temps were 88F and coolant temps 192F (from OBDII). When I got off freeway and went to idle, highest temp I saw was 199, but then temps dropped so I take that as my cooling system working well.

one thing I have noticed is that the insulation above the turbo is getting discolored from heat and I can smell a little funk from it cookin. I have blue fan clutch and bought 30k fluid to swap into it. I’m pretty close to buying a set of trackspec louvres to give that hot air a better path to escape.

Did other people experience issue with the hood insulation cooking?

 

[NLXTACY]

I’ve been driving around and system is running great. At ambient temp of low 70’s and cruising at 2300rpm (75mph), intake temps were 88F and coolant temps 192F (from OBDII). When I got off freeway and went to idle, highest temp I saw was 199, but then temps dropped so I take that as my cooling system working well.

one thing I have noticed is that the insulation above the turbo is getting discolored from heat and I can smell a little funk from it cookin. I have blue fan clutch and bought 30k fluid to swap into it. I’m pretty close to buying a set of trackspec louvres to give that hot air a better path to escape.

Did other people experience issue with the hood insulation cooking?

Check for a small exhaust leak around the turbo v-band and blanket heat marks. It’ll kinda look like you held a match at one spot. That is exactly what happened to me two years ago and it turned out to be a bad v-band clamp.

 

[CJK]

I’ll check that out today — Great suggestion, Joey

 

[spyduh]

Check for a small exhaust leak around the turbo v-band and blanket heat marks. It’ll kinda look like you held a match at one spot. That is exactly what happened to me two years ago and it turned out to be a bad v-band clamp.

Yup. Same. It was 100% vband cooking the hood and wrap. Need to make sure its 100% aligned and then tigthen

 

[CJK]

While the truck was running, I put my hand all around the turbo-downpipe junction held together by v-band but did not feel any heat.

I think it’s just resonant heat from the turbo blanket as it’s >350F and only a couple inches away from the hood insulation.

I bought 10K, 30K, 50K fan clutch fluid kit so I will change my blue fan clutch fluid to 30K and see if the additional airflow from that helps.

I attached photo that shows the heat discoloration. Again, this is not a “things are broken” issue, more of a “I notice this and should probably change before it causes an issue”

 

[NLXTACY]

You likely won’t feel it unless it’s under load. That marking is where mine started. Before I ignored it fir too long. Zero issue now and I’ve been doing tons of load tests with my water injection setup.

 

[96bruizer]

whaaaa? Water injection setup? Where have I been?

 

[TYM4FUN]

My truck was a weekend wheeler and I knew it consumed oil, but didn’t care. Now it has been my daily for almost 2 years or so? I stopped tracking fuel fill-ups and moved to tracking oil fill-ups. I am averaging 1qt every 500-650 miles.

Is it “necessary“ to address this for a turbo install? If it is, I will save for a head rebuild and a short block. If not, I will just keep adding oil, as the truck runs fantastic.

After thinking, I have went to everything but the bottom end option. Head gasket, ARP Supra studs, head work and seals, service injectors, all vacuum lines, whole cooling system, rubber lines like power steering and trans as well. The deeper I dig the longer the list gets lol.

 

[CJK]

You likely won’t feel it unless it’s under load. That marking is where mine started. Before I ignored it fir too long. Zero issue now and I’ve been doing tons of load tests with my water injection setup.

Thanks, that’s a great heads up.
I’ll loosen, re-align the downpipe then tighten the v-band back down.

also, the 30K fluid in the blue fan clutch is noticeably firmer than whatever was in it. I was provided it by the PO when I bought the turbo.

 

[spyduh]

Thanks, that’s a great heads up.
I’ll loosen, re-align the downpipe then tighten the v-band back down.

also, the 30K fluid in the blue fan clutch is noticeably firmer than whatever was in it. I was provided it by the PO when I bought the turbo.

My moded WitsEnd Blue was not as firm as what I just put in. I went with 22k CSTand DIYd.

 

[alia176]

15 CST for the fan clutch fluid is what I'm using and holy schmoly, she's loud! I can't even fathom 30CST fluid

 

[spyduh]

15 CST for the fan clutch fluid is what I'm using and holy schmoly, she's loud! I can't even fathom 30CST fluid

22 is loud. 15k is quiet. 30 must be like a lion roaring under the hood.

 

[TYM4FUN]

22 is loud. 15k is quiet. 30 must be like a lion roaring under the hood.

I had 20k and it was great and with RPM's, temps would actually drop on big mountain climbs. It will go in the spare parts bag. I modded a new blue with 30k for the turbo.

 

[spyduh]

I had 20k and it was great and with RPM's, temps would actually drop on big mountain climbs. It will go in the spare parts bag. I modded a new blue with 30k for the turbo.

I'm running Photomans smaller fan pulley so thats why I went 22 and not 30k for the turbo. I think if I combo'd Photman smaller pulley and 30k CST it will be WAY too much

 

[TYM4FUN]

I'm running Photomans smaller fan pulley so thats why I went 22 and not 30k for the turbo. I think if I combo'd Photman smaller pulley and 30k CST it will be WAY too much

Good choice on the pulley. I have noticed that increased water flow helps tons. I will be running wits' end 3 row pulley so no option there.

 

[spyduh]

Good choice on the pulley. I have noticed that increased water flow helps tons. I will be running wits' end 3 row pulley so no option there.

3row means you running the Air compressor. That's some money right there. Maybe Joey or Photoman is willing to making a smaller 3 row pulley for those that want onboard air + fan air flow.

I did notice my temps dropped with the smaller fan pulley. I think it took me down 5-8 degrees difference in temps.

 

[TYM4FUN]

3row means you running the Air compressor. That's some money right there. Maybe Joey or Photoman is willing to making a smaller 3 row pulley for those that want onboard air + fan air flow.

I did notice my temps dropped with the smaller fan pulley. I think it took me down 5-8 degrees difference in temps.

It would correlate to more CFM on the compressor...Not sure investment on that would be worth it vendor side.

 

[NLXTACY]

Good choice on the pulley. I have noticed that increased water flow helps tons. I will be running wits' end 3 row pulley so no option there.

I’ve considered it but very likely not worth it…on my end.

 

[CJK]

I’ll let you all know how it goes after I reinstall tonight. I have a standard pulley so hopefully the 30K fluid isn’t too absurd.

I bought a set with 50cc of each 10K, 30K, 50K. I can always drain a little 30K and add 10K to lower the viscosity.

 

[CJK]

Reinstalled the fan clutch with the 30K fluid.
The “arm hair anemometer” tells me there’s 30% more air speed behind the fan than before.

It’s louder for first 0-30 sec running but after that, the noise difference seems negligible.

I was not able to get to re-adjusting the v-band tonight. I unbolted it, but the clamp has heated and cooled to the surfaces so it’s a tight fit and will need some coaxing to come loose. It visually looks like it’s aligned properly, but always better to be sure than burn your insulation and ruin your paint