Wiring the ARBs with the OEM locker switch

[Brian894X4]

Quick question about using the stock OEM locker switch with front and rear ARBs.

I've wired it up where the pump and the rear locker both come on with the first position and the front locker comes on (along with the rear locker obviously) with the second position.

I know normally the pump is on a seperate switch, but I've run out of places to mount switches and I like the simplicity of wiring it this way. I guess my question is does anyone see how this might cause any problems? The only thing I can think of is that if the rear ARB and pump come on at the exact same time, the ARB will want to slowly engage as pressure comes up. I wasn't sure if this might cause any binding issues. Not knowing exactly how the thing works.

 

[wfd175]

From what I understood from the shop that installed my locker is: the actuator solenoid for the locker won't send any air to the locker until it has the correct amount of pressure.

I have the OEM switch also, but haven't wired it up yet.

 

[sandcruiser]

should work, but you might run into trouble getting it to actuate quickly or completely if the pump comes on at the same time

 

[Land Speeder]

What compressor are you running? the small "locker only" unit? I like the idea of having only one switch for my front air locker (outback is an Aussie), because since I have the small compressor all it's duty is for is to engage the front ARB, so i never have the compressor on unless I have the locker engaged. I also note that in order for me to get full turning capabilities back, i must turn off the compressor for the locker to fully disengage.
But none the less, I have 2 switches mounted that i always simutaneaously turn on or off... Someone quick, point out the diagram, that tells me how to wire the factory switch for my lockers, I know Held has done it.... dang, I'll go search.

 

[sleeoffroad]

We have done that a number of times with the small compressor and did not have issues. The very first time you turn it on, there is no pressure in the tank, but the tank is so small that this is overcome pretty soon. I would just make sure you give it a little time to engage that first time you use it on a run. Normally after that, it is fine

 

[WarDamnEagle]

What compressor are you running? the small "locker only" unit? I like the idea of having only one switch for my front air locker (outback is an Aussie), because since I have the small compressor all it's duty is for is to engage the front ARB, so i never have the compressor on unless I have the locker engaged. I also note that in order for me to get full turning capabilities back, i must turn off the compressor for the locker to fully disengage.
But none the less, I have 2 switches mounted that i always simutaneaously turn on or off... Someone quick, point out the diagram, that tells me how to wire the factory switch for my lockers, I know Held has done it.... dang, I'll go search.

Eric,

Here are two other threads that show the switch wiring diagrams.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/237171-trd-elockers.html

You can wire the 80 switch so that the "rear locker" turns on the compressor and the "front and rear locker" leaves the compressor on and actuates the front locker. Or you could just have one position or the other do both. If I only had one locker then I would find a 4Runner or Tacoma elocker switch. It's the same switch but with only 2 positions instead of 3. I think the wiring diagram for that switch is also either in the first post or in one of the links in the first post.

The 4Runner/Tacoma switch will fit in the same place as the 80 switch.

 

[Brian894X4]

Cool, thanks.

I'm running the big compressor, so it takes a few seconds to fully pump up the first time. Of course, I have a small leak somewhere now that I have to trace down as it doesn't stay off for long.

I originally had just the rear locker and had wired the OEM locker switch so the first position turned the compressor on, then the second position turned on the rear locker. That worked out awesome too. But now have an ARB up front too.

By the way Christo, your ARB compressor mount is just awesome. It was a bit of a pain to install, but man it sure did the trick of finding that one last place to put a compressor when there's no other place to mount one that I could see. And it's held it securely for the last year or so just fine.

 

[alia176]

From what I understood from the shop that installed my locker is: the actuator solenoid for the locker won't send any air to the locker until it has the correct amount of pressure.
.

This is not the case. The ARB solenoid is a dumb solenoid and as soon as it's open (when you hear the click), air goes through it straight into the locker. If you have 100psi in your air compressor, then 100psi will go to the locker. Same goes for 0 psi. The locker won't engage obviously until about min 75psi is at the locker.

Brian,

Your solution is sweet if the ARB air comp is only used for locker usage. If tire inflation is in order then it's a little weird but still functional.

 

[Brian894X4]

I do have an air chuck adapter mounted to the Slee firewall mounted air manifold. But that's for emergencies only. I carry a CO2 tank for normal air.

Got the leaks fixed and so far, it works great! It would be kind of nice to leave the compressor turned on and then just manipulate the lockers individually as needed, so I might rewire things down the road, but this set up works for now. It will get me up and over mountain this weekend at least!

If I do rewire it, I would probably go back to the OEM dial first position operating the compressor only, the second position operating the compressor and rear locker and a seperate switch for the front locker. This would allow both lockers to be turned on/off indepedently as well as the compressor operated indepedently. Come to think of it, I really like that plan.

 

[alia176]

If I do rewire it, I would probably go back to the OEM dial first position operating the compressor only, the second position operating the compressor and rear locker and a seperate switch for the front locker. This would allow both lockers to be turned on/off indepedently as well as the compressor operated indepedently. Come to think of it, I really like that plan.

I like the idea of the oem switch doing just the lockers and that matches the label but that's just me. If you're out of spots for switches, have you looked at using the coin holders in the center console cup holder for switches? Having the compressor turned on by a lighted switch and NOT having to use that ugly ARB locker mondo rocker switch is my vote It's very easy to wire up the lockers with the oem dial switch and with a little wiring you can light up the locker lights in the dash too.

 

[sandcruiser]

I"m going to second the vote for using the OEM switch for the lockers, and a dedicated switch for the air compressor.

Here's how I plan to wire mine (eventually): air comp w/ a protected switch (red cover) and an LED. I'll be switching the ground from the compressor's relay, and also the ground from the OEM switch.

The OEM switch will switch the grounds from the ARB solenoids.

Simple. Fairly doofus-proof (nobody is likely to actuate the FF/RR lockers while driving down the highway, for example). And uses mostly OEM gear... though the compressor switch will be non-oem, it is true. As an alternative: I could use another hazard switch in the dash to actuate the air compressor, just changing the logo.

 

[Brian894X4]

What I like about my plan is that either locker can be turned on/off seperately. With both lockers tied to the oem switch, this isn't possible. You can only run one, depending on which was wired up for the first switch position and then both.

Since I rarely use the front locker, it work out nice to run the compessor and rear locker off the oem switch like I did before and then mount a seperate switch somewhere for the front locker.

I got a chance to them both today in central Oregon. Funny this I had both lockers engaged, but one of the rear tires wouldn't spin and I was stuck. I thought had a problem with the lockers untill dumb me realized I forgot to lock the center diff. I guess that viscous center diff actually doesn't work so well at all. The limited slip center diff is very limited indeed. Thank god for the center diff switch mod.

 

[alia176]

Funny this I had both lockers engaged, but one of the rear tires wouldn't spin and I was stuck. I thought had a problem with the lockers untill dumb me realized I forgot to lock the center diff. I guess that viscous center diff actually doesn't work so well at all. The limited slip center diff is very limited indeed. Thank god for the center diff switch mod.

Hmm, if one of the rear tire is spinning then your locker didn't engage. The viscous coupling should've locked the front and rear together and it did its job (as evidenced by one of the rear tire spinning). It may not have done 50/50 lock, however, since both rear tires weren't spinning equally makes me thing something to do with the locker?

As far as the center diff switch mod, what exactly are you referring to? If you didn't do the pin #7 mod then the CDL should've activated as soon as you're 4low.
Sometimes I think Pin 7 mod is just makes one more thing to push. I've gotten in trouble in the past due to this mod.

 

[Brian894X4]

Sorry, I didn't mean just one rear wheel. I could only see one side at time from the drivers seat. I only saw one wheel stopped, but I assume, both rear wheels were stopped. Locking the center diff solved the problem instantly. I do have the 7 pin mod and it was in 4high at the time.

I think the f/r lockers may have overwhelmed the viscous center diff. I was on a slight hill, very slippery wet packed snow, with most of the weight on the rear. With both rear tires locked together, I think it had too much tractioned, overwhelmed the vc and sent all the torque to two front wheels. Had the lockers been off, the torque probably would have gone to tires on each axle that had the least traction.

It didn't completely stop the rear wheels the entire time, so the vc was trying. There was a little bit of back and forth.

Basically the vc would have either had to allow the torque to go to all four wheels or the two on one of two axles and not the other. That was it's only choice. If the were able lock up and power all four wheels against restistance, it probably wouldn't be a very affective differental on the street. Toyota made sure the center diff was locked before it would allow the factory lockers to engage.