When I took my harness apart, I realized that a big chunk was for stuff I never intend to run, or you wouldn't miss it if it was omitted (smog). So, I personally wouldn't advise you to take it apart without knowing which ones need to actually get reinstalled, and which ones are worth omitting. The dilemma with deletion is that pulling wires from harness connectors is a bit of an uncertainty until you really know the whole picture, but it also changes the shape of the harness, and is pretty permanent.
If you test for short circuits, without having the battery connected with conductivity testing, then you can at least test for major problems before you see smoke. If you get a functional harness, then if you want, you can take it out, take it apart, replace what is necessary without having to re-engineer it relative to its shape and how it fits in the small space provided with inducing minimal stress on individual wires in large connections, or rubbing them on sharp edges of various parts behind the dash.
My current 40 had quite a bit of mouse damage. It had one obvious short circuit at the rear quarter panel tail light, and no further apparent damage. So I had to repair quite a bit of it. I learned that the '75 Federal Spec wiring diagram was missing some things like the bypass wire to the starter, and the radio interference wire at the coil, and so when I began with disassembly, I didn't know exactly what went thru the mouses digestive, and what actually needed to get hooked up, and where.
I use this in 11x17 but it might not always be clear because it experienced some water damage.
If you test for short circuits, without having the battery connected with conductivity testing, then you can at least test for major problems before you see smoke. If you get a functional harness, then if you want, you can take it out, take it apart, replace what is necessary without having to re-engineer it relative to its shape and how it fits in the small space provided with inducing minimal stress on individual wires in large connections, or rubbing them on sharp edges of various parts behind the dash.
My current 40 had quite a bit of mouse damage. It had one obvious short circuit at the rear quarter panel tail light, and no further apparent damage. So I had to repair quite a bit of it. I learned that the '75 Federal Spec wiring diagram was missing some things like the bypass wire to the starter, and the radio interference wire at the coil, and so when I began with disassembly, I didn't know exactly what went thru the mouses digestive, and what actually needed to get hooked up, and where.
I use this in 11x17 but it might not always be clear because it experienced some water damage.