Wiring help (1 Viewer)

Dizzy

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('75 federal spec 40, above)
The second pic is the heater controls light (covered mine with tape). The third is the glove box inspection light socket. On the far driver's will be a wire for the interior light on the hard top side, not ignition-switch-dependent.
 

Dizzy

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Just a wild guess? Is this an F engine?

Do you have a cast iron bracket for the alternator on the passenger side of the engine like my 2F?

Above all else, make sure that the rear harness is secured tightly, not just twisted, and insulated beyond a wrap of electrical tape. Those lights must not fail, and they need redundant grounds.
 
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Just a wild guess? Is this an F engine?

Do you have a cast iron bracket for the alternator on the passenger side of the engine like my 2F?

Above all else, make sure that the rear harness is secured tightly, not just twisted, and insulated beyond a wrap of electrical tape. Those lights must not fail, and they need redundant grounds.
I havent had a chance to look at it but yes I believe it is cast and a 2F motor. With all the strange splices and other things that I have found with the front harness I am seriously considering pulling the back harness and inspecting it as well.
 
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I havent had a chance to look at it but yes I believe it is cast and a 2F motor. With all the strange splices and other things that I have found with the front harness I am seriously considering pulling the back harness and inspecting it as well.
Never mind I was completely wrong... no bracket.

20191205_184809.jpg
 

Dizzy

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Your oil filter is right in front of the distributor? You have the F air cleaner. I don't know what alternator you have. The stock smog pump tensioner used a spacer on the bolt on the water pump. What does the other side of the alternator look like where it pivots on the engine bracket?

You probably should decide if the swapped side of the engine for the alternator is a good install. It is not ideal having wires set up to the factory side of the truck, then back to the driver side of the truck. It could be done, it makes for more risk and complications in the long run. The 2F originally used two belts, and maybe the swap was trying to accomplish more belt drive on the water pump than how it is when the smog pump is removed.

On the engine, in the front passenger side of the head just behind the thermostat, there will be like three bolt holes there. This is where the alternator went in a stock configuration.
 

Coolerman

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If that is a 2F engine, the alternator is on the wrong side and that sure is NOT a Toyota alternator, at least not a Land Cruiser version.
You have a HEI Chevy distributor installed also. Not sure about that relay on the passenger side firewall. It looks like a starter relay which Land Cruiser do not have. So maybe the starter is also not OEM?

If you are trying to get this back to OEM, you will need to locate a 2F alternator bracket, 2F alternator, and a 2F regulator. You will need to re-do some wiring to make all that work like it is supposed to. Hopefully the previous owner didn't butcher all that wiring too badly...
 
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Now that you mention it I havent seen a voltage regulator and for the alternator I was thinking it looked a little funny. I will investigate the starter more tomorrow. I finally got the wire harness completely out and it is a mess. I will get it laid out on a board and try to make heads or tails of it tomorrow. Coolerman I am going to have a long list of parts that I am going to need from you. That much I do know. Thanks again for everyone's help and input.
 
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It's been I few days but I have the harness spread out the careful process of removing the tape and identifying everything is about to begin. I even had a few things that shook out of the harness that I an not sure what it even goes to. Travis 76 any help that you could provide would be very much appreciated. Thanks again for everyone's comments and help. Hopefully I get this harness cleaned up soon. The wire diagram and the picture of the 76 harness are going to be a huge help.

20191208_153000.jpg


20191208_153013.jpg


20191208_153149.jpg
 
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Here are some pics of the starter. I am not sure if it is OEM but I am confident I dont have a regulator.

20191208_153357.jpg


20191208_153425.jpg
 

DSRTRDR

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Your oil filter is right in front of the distributor? You have the F air cleaner. I don't know what alternator you have. The stock smog pump tensioner used a spacer on the bolt on the water pump. What does the other side of the alternator look like where it pivots on the engine bracket?

You probably should decide if the swapped side of the engine for the alternator is a good install. It is not ideal having wires set up to the factory side of the truck, then back to the driver side of the truck. It could be done, it makes for more risk and complications in the long run. The 2F originally used two belts, and maybe the swap was trying to accomplish more belt drive on the water pump than how it is when the smog pump is removed.

On the engine, in the front passenger side of the head just behind the thermostat, there will be like three bolt holes there. This is where the alternator went in a stock configuration.

that alternator location is the same as it came from the PO on my desmogged 2F-converted '72: tensioner arm from the water pump and one belt only - I also have the voltage regulator separate on the driver's side firewall

when the power steering was installed, that's where a second belt is now going to in my truck
 

Dizzy

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that alternator location is the same as it came from the PO on my desmogged 2F-converted '72: tensioner arm from the water pump and one belt only - I also have the voltage regulator separate on the driver's side firewall

when the power steering was installed, that's where a second belt is now going to in my truck
Nothing wrong with mounting it on either side, but, just for the sake of a clean wiring route to the alternator, it is best to pick which one before building the harness.
 

Coolerman

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That starter does look like a later model gear reduction starter, so you are good there.

Your harness is a bit rough, but I have repaired far worse. Anything can be fixed.

Start by removing all the PO added crap like that relay next to the head light switch. If it is a solid color wire, odds are it's not OEM, especially if it's red or blue... :grinpimp:

Then use pics of a good harness to compare to what you have. If you are not needing Emissions, you can remove a lot of wires from that harness.

Now make a list of all the wire colors/gauges you need to repair and how many feet of each. Next do the same with connectors/terminals you need. E-mail that list to me fj40coolerman at gmail dot com. Note I also sell the non-adhesive harness tape to tape it back up after you have finished all the repairs/additions.

Once you get the OEM harness repaired, THEN go about adding any accessory wiring you may want like fog lights or power ports. There are two 1/4" male terminals on the back of the fuse panel. They are usually covered by heat shrink tubing. One always has +12V on it, the other has +12V when the key is on. You can use those for power taps for adding stuff. They are fused so you don't have to worry about adding separate fuses.

By embedding accessory wiring into the harness before taping, the added wires will look OEM to the next owner and make troubleshooting much easier.
 

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