Winter grill cover? (1 Viewer)

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Sep 27, 2018
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Colorado Springs
Hey y’all, with temps dropping and a small block Chevy that runs cool on the highway even on 90° days I’ve decided a grill cover would be a very good idea to invest in. So far though I have found absolutely nothing online for an 80 series, anyone know where to find one or good plans for making one? I’m not opposed at all to making my own so designs or ideas would be awesome!
 
Hey y’all, with temps dropping and a small block Chevy that runs cool on the highway even on 90° days I’ve decided a grill cover would be a very good idea to invest in. So far though I have found absolutely nothing online for an 80 series, anyone know where to find one or good plans for making one? I’m not opposed at all to making my own so designs or ideas would be awesome!
If the coolant mix is right, shouldn't need one.
Frankly tho, sounds like the cooling system isn't working correctly.
From where will the cabin heat come if the engine doesn't get warm?
That you will need on Old Stage, the Reservoir Trail, or San Juan (and many other places) in the winter.
 
My 91 had an aftermarket radiator and it would run cold in the dead of winter ice fishing at 5am. I just stuck a piece of cardboard in between the front of the radiator and the grill.

It worked perfect and allowed the thermostat to open and the temps would hit mid 180's instead of floating around 150.
 
If the coolant mix is right, shouldn't need one.
Frankly tho, sounds like the cooling system isn't working correctly.
From where will the cabin heat come if the engine doesn't get warm?
That you will need on Old Stage, the Reservoir Trail, or San Juan (and many other places) in the winter.
Itll sit right about 167 on the highway all the time, hit the side roads and it’ll warm up to 190 no problem and cycle correctly. I even had this problem in the winter with the 3fe, the 350 though does keep the cabin warm well enough, unlike the 3fe, just looking to reduce some airflow and have it look nice
 
I'd recommend that you post in this section of the 80 series tech forum: 80 Series V8 swaps. This is really not an issue for the 1FZ engine and would be rare for the 3FE. Don't know how long you've had your 80 or if you experienced the OEM engine setup for yours, before the small block. But, it would be nice to have this problem for a 1FZ! Just saying, you might get better results.
 
If the foam insulation across the front of the top tank is gone you should be able to slip cardboard in there pretty easy. Might want something more waterproof. When I lived in Cheyenne I used aluminum printing press plates. I was the pressroom foreman for the Wyoming Eagle.
 
Only "snow" versions of HDJ80/81 for Japan & Europe markets had radiator blinds.

I have a 6 cylinder work s***box that wouldn't reach operating temp in winter when I was working in the mountains.
It wouldn't get hot enough to provide heat in the cab, and i don't need a lot of heat.

I covered 2/3 of the radiator with a piece of plastic core flute and some duct tape. Worked a treat.
 
I'd recommend that you post in this section of the 80 series tech forum: 80 Series V8 swaps. This is really not an issue for the 1FZ engine and would be rare for the 3FE. Don't know how long you've had your 80 or if you experienced the OEM engine setup for yours, before the small block. But, it would be nice to have this problem for a 1FZ! Just saying, you might get better results.
Had this cruiser for 6.5 years, 4 of which with the 3fe and I surprisingly always had problems keeping that 3fe hot in the winter, always struggled to keep it warm enough for the heater to keep up. Of course there is something to be said about the heater core but if the motor stayed warm with either motor it works fine, that’s why I figured it was a common 80 series problem maybe. Worth a shot asking that group for sure though.
 
Had this cruiser for 6.5 years, 4 of which with the 3fe and I surprisingly always had problems keeping that 3fe hot in the winter, always struggled to keep it warm enough for the heater to keep up. Of course there is something to be said about the heater core but if the motor stayed warm with either motor it works fine, that’s why I figured it was a common 80 series problem maybe. Worth a shot asking that group for sure though.

May be an issue with your heater core then?
 
May be an issue with your heater core then?
Slightly yes, but even the factory coolant temp gauge would show well on the cold side with the 3fe when I would be either going downhill for really any amount of time in the cold or just outright cold when it was absolutely freezing out. And that factory gauge was vague as all hell.
 
I surprisingly always had problems keeping that 3fe hot in the winter, always struggled to keep it warm enough for the heater to keep up.

What kinds of outside temperatures and drive distances are we talking about here?

The only time I've had a vehicle not reach normal range on the thermostat was when I was driving at speed (45+ back roads or freeway, as opposed to stop and go city driving) at around 25F.

Itll sit right about 167 on the highway all the time

Where is this number coming from? Your coolant should be something like 180 - 190F when warmed up. It sounds like you have the wrong thermostat or no thermostat.
 
What kinds of outside temperatures and drive distances are we talking about here?

The only time I've had a vehicle not reach normal range on the thermostat was when I was driving at speed (45+ back roads or freeway, as opposed to stop and go city driving) at around 25F.



Where is this number coming from? Your coolant should be something like 180 - 190F when warmed up. It sounds like you have the wrong thermostat or no thermostat.
1 this cover would be for 25° F and below outside temp
2 once I hit the highway whether its been on the road for 5 minutes or 5 hours from 30 degrees to 90 outside it’ll drop like a rock with the small block Chevy, not much of a concern though. I’m on my 3rd 180° thermostat from 3 different suppliers and every single one of them has done the exact same thing where it drops to 167 and floats there in the highway when on flat ground. I’ve also got a 3 core full aluminum radiator.
3 I get the 167° from the Holley sniper display, full live data from the EFI since it needs coolant temp for temp enrichment and to run the fans
 
I get the 167° from the Holley sniper display

Where is the temperature sensor it's reading from? If it's in the head, then your numbers don't make any sense. The radiator is irrelevant, the thermostat would have to be passing too much coolant below its opening temperature in order for engine temperature to drop like that.

Searching for "Holley Sniper temperature sensor inaccurate" gives several results indicating that it's a common problem. My guess is that you have a bad temperature sensor.

If I understand correctly, your interior hear heat issue was only with the 3FE? Still seems like it was a clogged heater core, especially if you still have the rear heater.
 
Where is the temperature sensor it's reading from? If it's in the head, then your numbers don't make any sense. The radiator is irrelevant, the thermostat would have to be passing too much coolant below its opening temperature in order for engine temperature to drop like that.

Searching for "Holley Sniper temperature sensor inaccurate" gives several results indicating that it's a common problem. My guess is that you have a bad temperature sensor.

If I understand correctly, your interior hear heat issue was only with the 3FE? Still seems like it was a clogged heater core, especially if you still have the rear heater.
It’s pulling right below the thermostat, so replaced that sensor with a correct replacement 3 days after first running. The interior heat problem is mild but does show the coolant temp fluctuations problem well. With the 3fe the heat worked well when I was running it hard and keeping it warm in cold weather (keep in mind this is Colorado so cold means actually cold) when running easy even after running with multiple different thermostats it would run cool enough for the factory temp gauge to start dropping. The 350 is a similar case but creates enough heat to keep the heater working well enough.

The heater core is for sure somewhat clogged but works well enough as long as it’s not like -10 out but I go out on those days to do snow recoveries so having a grill cover I was hoping would just help reduce air flow through the engine bay helping to keep it warm.

Basically I’m just looking for a good way to reduce air flow through the engine bay since it’s obvious the engine is doing a damn good job at air cooling and coming into winter I’d like to have a not junky looking way to restrict that air flow.
 
it’s obvious the engine is doing a damn good job at air cooling

Not if the sensor data you're basing that on is incorrect.

Either there is something wrong with your plumbing or that sensor data is wrong. There's no other way you're running at 167F on the highway on a 90F day.
 
Not if the sensor data you're basing that on is incorrect.

Either there is something wrong with your plumbing or that sensor data is wrong. There's no other way you're running at 167F on the highway on a 90F day.
I mean it’s correct I dunno what to tell you, on the highway it drops, get off the highway it rises back up normally. Motor makes enough power that I’m barely doing more than 20% throttle to keep it moving at highway speeds, I’ve even ran a separate gauge that runs off the intake manifold when I had to swap out to a carburetor for a short time and it showed the same thing. Also there’s a total of 4 hoses. 2 to the radiator, 2 to the heater core. Ain’t nothing to screw up there
 

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