Wind Noise at Driver's Door

[rolliges]

^^^ Did it work?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

^^^ Did it work?

I'm not sure yet but I will report back. I just found this thread today.

Last week I noticed the top back corner of the window was kind of pushed out. I wondered if someone tried to break in or something. I had to remove my passenger door from some Rubicon damage repair and I'm familiar with how it's hinged and adjusts. However, those adjustments won't solve that corner.

The door does just seem like it's slightly off plain high and assure something in the bottom may just work.

 

[alia176]

I found the TSB

MAY 24, 1996
BODY
BO007–96
L–C
FRONT DOOR BELT MOLDING WIND NOISE Page 1 of 2
To prevent a high pitch wind flutter noise caused by air rushing between the front door belt
molding and outer door skin area, foam–backed tape has been added to the back side of the
molding.

PRODUCTION EFFECTIVE:
Starting VIN: FZJ80–0119754
FIELD–FIX METHOD:
. Lower door glass to bottom of travel.
. Remove “Lower Frame Bracket Garnish” (triangular plastic screw cover plate
located inside the vehicle at base of mirror).
. Remove the 3 mirror attaching screws and carefully pull mirror away from door frame.

NOTE: Wrap door mirror with a shop towel and carefully drape door mirror against door.
. Remove belt molding attaching screw (located at rear inside edge of door frame).
. Grasp molding with 2 hands and pull molding straight up using a swift upward
motion.
. Use needle–nose pliers to remove plastic
attaching clips that remained attached to
metal door panel when molding was removed.

Molding
Lower Frame
Bracket Garnish
Mirror Attaching
Screws
Outside Rear
View Mirror

FRONT DOOR BELT MOLDING WIND NOISE FIELD–FIX METHOD (CONT’D):
. Reinstall plastic attaching clips to back of belt molding.

NOTE: Place clips in the factory location.Original location is easily determined
by the small scratch marks left on the back side of the molding by the clips.
. Cover a work bench with a shop blanket and place the molding facedown on the blanket.
. Center and adhere a piece of foam backed tape (from the Toyota Squeak and Rattle Kit,
P/N 08231–00801) to the back side of the molding, directly over the third clip (3rd clip
counting from the front edge of the molding).

NOTE: Tape should be approximately 10 mm wide X 7 mm thick X 200 mm long.
. Reinstall belt molding (be sure that all attaching clips are properly lined–up with
corresponding holes in the door panel before attempting to install the molding).
. Install screw at rear edge of belt molding.
. Install outside mirror to body with 3 attaching screws and snap lower frame bracket
garnish (triangular plastic mirror base) back into place.
. Road test vehicle to confirm elimination of wind noise condition.

WARRANTY INFORMATION: *
Page 2 of 2
Molding Clip
200mm
3rd Molding
Clip
Molding
10mm
7mm
Clip

OPCODE DESCRIPTION TIME OPN T1 T2
751371
R&R front door belt molding (one side) including adding foam backed tape
0.4

67111–602XX (RH)
67112–602XX (LH)
91 55
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, what is a Toyota Squeak and Rattle kit? from eBay

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[alia176]

copy/paste

NOTE: Tape should be approximately 10 mm wide X 7 mm thick X 200 mm long.
. Reinstall belt molding (be sure that all attaching clips are properly lined–up with
corresponding holes in the door panel before attempting to install the molding).
. Install screw at rear edge of belt molding.
. Install outside mirror to body with 3 attaching screws and snap lower frame bracket
garnish (triangular plastic mirror base) back into place.



I'm trying to visualize which part of the door molding is removed and spaced with the 10x7x200 foam tape. There's a mention of removing a screw so this is a big hint. I need to see which molding has a screw at the rear edge of belt molding.

 

[effjay80]

The tape goes below this strip of molding.

 

[alia176]

Thank you sir, very helpful. I do have noise at that location AND next to my ears, coming from both doors. So, I'll do the same thing to the upper corner of the door frame as well.

View attachment 2949190

The tape goes below this strip of molding.

.

 

[Heckraiser]

FWIW, I have read up on this topic and I've come across references to the "Doug shoe" method here and there on MUD. Basically it goes like this: you stick a tennis shoe in the door at or just below the belt line to keep it from closing all the way. With the window all the way up (do not try with the window half-up), push in on the upper window frame, bending the whole thing inward by a mm or two.

I have already replaced my belt moudligs. I bought new door seals, but haven't installed the driver's side yet. If that doesn't work, I'm trying the shoe.

 

[effjay80]

I hated that shrill wind noise so completed the moulding/tape TSB, the Doug Shoe procedure, and I also lined anywhere I could in that area with sound deadening foam. Not the dynamat stuff but the soft acoustic foam. I cut and packed it in behind the inside plastic panels where the mirror screws are accessed, and also lined the inside of my door panels when I re-did the vapor barriers. This pretty much eliminated that wind noise to the point where it's barely noticeable now.

 

[alia176]

FWIW, I have read up on this topic and I've come across references to the "Doug shoe" method here and there on MUD. Basically it goes like this: you stick a tennis shoe in the door at or just below the belt line to keep it from closing all the way. With the window all the way up (do not try with the window half-up), push in on the upper window frame, bending the whole thing inward by a mm or two.

I have already replaced my belt moudligs. I bought new door seals, but haven't installed the driver's side yet. If that doesn't work, I'm trying the shoe.

I've done all.of.it - bought ALL moldings, replaced the rubber tracks,and did the shoe trick but still, the noise persists.