Wildwood Brake proportioning valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter badass
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yes, it goes in the rear circuit only
yes, lemme dig . . .
I used adapters to match the NPT fittings on the Wilwood to the Toyota metric brake lines - details here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...valve-install-without-brake-line-flaring.html
the end of the thread mentions an alternative source for adapters that I have not tested personally
getting to the washer bottle is more difficult now (not yet installed in that pic) as the prop valve is sorta above it
I used adapters to match the NPT fittings on the Wilwood to the Toyota metric brake lines - details here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...valve-install-without-brake-line-flaring.html
the end of the thread mentions an alternative source for adapters that I have not tested personally
getting to the washer bottle is more difficult now (not yet installed in that pic) as the prop valve is sorta above it
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DSRTRDR;
While your work looks great, this would not fly in a vehicle inspection.
Making the out put of any pressure line rigid is a no no.
The proper way to have completed this would be to use brake line so if by any chance the assembly got hit or bumped it will not break only bend.
Using two brass line adapters on the pv and sae line nuts would pass inspection.
Turning your brake line into a metric line nut at one end and sae nut on the other .
I do this on all my conversions when the parts being used are sae going on a metric vehicle.
Keeps things simple and cheap.
While your work looks great, this would not fly in a vehicle inspection.
Making the out put of any pressure line rigid is a no no.
The proper way to have completed this would be to use brake line so if by any chance the assembly got hit or bumped it will not break only bend.
Using two brass line adapters on the pv and sae line nuts would pass inspection.
Turning your brake line into a metric line nut at one end and sae nut on the other .
I do this on all my conversions when the parts being used are sae going on a metric vehicle.
Keeps things simple and cheap.
ChaseTruck
--
She knows this will spontaneously combust at some point. And maybe it will. As will the rest of the truck.
When we set this up, I didn't like the idea of hanging the P-valve from a brake line.
Doesn't matter now, the truck is going to be set up with rear drums.
When we set this up, I didn't like the idea of hanging the P-valve from a brake line.
Doesn't matter now, the truck is going to be set up with rear drums.
DSRTRDR;
While your work looks great, this would not fly in a vehicle inspection.
Making the out put of any pressure line rigid is a no no.
The proper way to have completed this would be to use brake line so if by any chance the assembly got hit or bumped it will not break only bend.
Using two brass line adapters on the pv and sae line nuts would pass inspection.
Turning your brake line into a metric line nut at one end and sae nut on the other .
I do this on all my conversions when the parts being used are sae going on a metric vehicle.
Keeps things simple and cheap.
the output adapters connect to the original brake line - it passed inspection in AZ in 2005 and has been through a yearly inspection every year since
(technically, '72 doesn't need visual inspection in AZ, but often the emissions stations inspected anyway)no busloads of nuns were killed, and neither the truck nor the brake lines have spontaneously combusted in 8 years of wheeling, including 10 trips to Moab
AFAIK, the Wilwood will have to stay even when I get the 60 series rear brakes
Claudia,
Will this proprtioning valve work without all the fittings you suggested?
looks like it has metric thread
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/applications/?prefilter=1
thanks again
Will this proprtioning valve work without all the fittings you suggested?
looks like it has metric thread
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/applications/?prefilter=1
thanks again
Bear
SILVER Star
The manufacturer, Wilwood, says this accepts a BUBBLE flare fitting, while your factory Toyota lines use a DOUBLE or inverted flare fitting. I do not believe these are directly/safely interchangeable.
If your goal is to avoid any cutting or flaring on your original lines, you are stuck using adapter fittings, as no one seems to make a direct-to-Toyota proportioning valve, other than Toyota themselves. New Toyota valves are very expensive, and used ones are most often corroded and/or have frozen pistons.
If your goal is to have the least amount of fittings, then as has been suggested by several others, you need to cut off your existing flares, remove the fittings, replace them with fittings appropriate to your new choice of prop valve, and flare either double or bubble flares as the valve requires.
If your goal is to avoid any cutting or flaring on your original lines, you are stuck using adapter fittings, as no one seems to make a direct-to-Toyota proportioning valve, other than Toyota themselves. New Toyota valves are very expensive, and used ones are most often corroded and/or have frozen pistons.
If your goal is to have the least amount of fittings, then as has been suggested by several others, you need to cut off your existing flares, remove the fittings, replace them with fittings appropriate to your new choice of prop valve, and flare either double or bubble flares as the valve requires.
The Toyota valves are very simple and, in my experience, are often serviceable when purchased used. They are also very easy to rebuild. I run one with fzj80 rear disc brakes and it works fine.
Could you not start with a Load Sensing Proportioning valve from an 62, 80 or minitruck and make something up?
Edit: the $42 one at Summit with the right fittings makes any DIY seem pretty futile.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/applications/?prefilter=1
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as I said in the other thread, I have no personal experience with it
