Awesome, thanks so much for the inspection/testing tips and vid. Super helpful! Gonna try this out when I get my car back.
Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter arcadian
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Awesome, thanks so much for the inspection/testing tips and vid. Super helpful! Gonna try this out when I get my car back.
Well the full job included
Well the full job included CV axle x2, hub flanges x2, washer gasket x2, axel seal x1, inner wheel bearings x2, and outer wheel bearings x1 and labor. Not sure if that still makes the $2400 thievery, or a bit more reasonable?
That is a curious assortment of things, but it only makes it slightly less thievery. How on earth they could determine you only need 1 outer wheel bearing and why they’d only replace 1 axle seal makes it all suspect.
Land Shark
SILVER Star
I agree with @Bisho above. And sorry but I thought it was for only one side CV and drive flange. Which in that case would be total thievery even with OEM parts.
Wanted to check back in with some updates and more questions.
I opted out of the: "CV axle x2, hub flanges x2, washer gasket x2, and R&R CV axles x2" quoted for around $2100.
I did end up doing the: "front outer wheel bearing with race x2, front inner wheel bearing with race x2, front wheel seal x2, and labor" for $800.
A year later, few thousand miles, some mild off-roading, and mild TB lift with OME UCAs (~21.5" hub to fender), I noticed some grease flung from the inner boot of my CVs. Couldn't find any obvious tears. I just wanted to share pics with the group and ask if it's time to service them?
Passenger side (presumed leak/seepage pointed out in red):
Driver side (appears mild and could not find a leakage point):
2. It appears the grease is being lost from around the boot clamps but could not find a hole.
3. I drove in 360s in did not hear any clunks
4. Took a vid similar to yours... how bad is it doc?
Test (Park R-N-D then N-R Park)
youtube.com
2001LC
SILVER Star
Reboot the one, or replace the FDS (AKA CV)Wanted to check back in with some updates and more questions.
I opted out of the: "CV axle x2, hub flanges x2, washer gasket x2, and R&R CV axles x2" quoted for around $2100.
I did end up doing the: "front outer wheel bearing with race x2, front inner wheel bearing with race x2, front wheel seal x2, and labor" for $800.
A year later, few thousand miles, some mild off-roading, and mild TB lift with OME UCAs (~21.5" hub to fender), I noticed some grease flung from the inner boot of my CVs. Couldn't find any obvious tears. I just wanted to share pics with the group and ask if it's time to service them?
Passenger side (presumed leak/seepage pointed out in red):
View attachment 3600508View attachment 3600509
Driver side (appears mild and could not find a leakage point):
View attachment 3600511
2. It appears the grease is being lost from around the boot clamps but could not find a hole.
3. I drove in 360s in did not hear any clunks
4. Took a vid similar to yours... how bad is it doc?
Test (Park R-N-D then N-R Park)
Seeing grease, from inner side of clamp. Indicates boot has a hole.
I replaced both my CV's this last week. I had similar symptoms to you. They needed to be rebooted, I just bought a set of new ones, and the old ones I will reboot and keep them as spare.
If you're truck is modified and lifted, then maybe the CV's are bending more aggressively all the time, and this causes strain which causes the boots to tear or the clamps to loose grip and for oil to fling out. My truck is stock but 170k miles it showed its age.
If you're truck is modified and lifted, then maybe the CV's are bending more aggressively all the time, and this causes strain which causes the boots to tear or the clamps to loose grip and for oil to fling out. My truck is stock but 170k miles it showed its age.
That sounds perfectly reasonable to me from a price standpoint. Parts alone are well over half that. I think that's actually probably too low to actually pay decent labor.
I think enthusiasts tend to get a bit skewed on the price of professional repairs. Good mechanics and their shop owners should make six figures. The industry is dying because they often don't.
Thanks guys. So I'm gonna buy everything I need and try to tackle this next weekend. Just to confirm my parts list:
1. Boot kit:
www.cruiserpatch.com
2. Improved clamps:
cruisergarage.com
3. Drive flange (earlier post said to always replace this part) - could someone link the part or part number?
Thanks everyone!
1. Boot kit:
100 Series CV Axle Reboot Kits
The 100 Series Toyota Land Cruiser and other IFS vehicles are prone to ripped, torn, or worn-out CV boots. With the CV inboard and outboard reboot kit, one can easily freshen up the boots and joints with new grease, pliable rubber, and OEM clamps. When rebooting the outboard joint, one must...
www.cruiserpatch.com
2. Improved clamps:
100-Series CV Axle Clamp Kit — CRUISER GARAGE
CV axles slinging grease? These clamps are the only solution! Fits all 1998-2007 100-Series Land Cruisers / LX470's and 2003-2009 4th Gen 4Runners (Most other Toyota SUV’s / Trucks will fit as well). Made popular by PFran. These are better than OEM and the highest quality clamps available, made from
cruisergarage.com
3. Drive flange (earlier post said to always replace this part) - could someone link the part or part number?
Thanks everyone!
Here's the flanges:Thanks guys. So I'm gonna buy everything I need and try to tackle this next weekend. Just to confirm my parts list:
1. Boot kit:
100 Series CV Axle Reboot Kits
The 100 Series Toyota Land Cruiser and other IFS vehicles are prone to ripped, torn, or worn-out CV boots. With the CV inboard and outboard reboot kit, one can easily freshen up the boots and joints with new grease, pliable rubber, and OEM clamps. When rebooting the outboard joint, one must...
2. Improved clamps:
100-Series CV Axle Clamp Kit — CRUISER GARAGE
CV axles slinging grease? These clamps are the only solution! Fits all 1998-2007 100-Series Land Cruisers / LX470's and 2003-2009 4th Gen 4Runners (Most other Toyota SUV’s / Trucks will fit as well). Made popular by PFran. These are better than OEM and the highest quality clamps available, made from
3. Drive flange (earlier post said to always replace this part) - could someone link the part or part number?
Thanks everyone!
4342160030 (need two)
If you replace Flanges you might as well get new gasket too. It's not too expensive.
Gasket:
4342260070 (need two)
Instead of creating a new thread I wanted to add to this.
Completely stock 1999 LX 470 with 160000 miles. No off road use. AHC system is still in place and I had it serviced and parts replaced about five years ago at the same dealership.
I would estimate I have had about 12-15,000 in mostly preventative maintenance done on the car at the same dealership.
i have had the right CV replaced by Lexus of Thousand Oaks twice in the last two years.
After each replacement that grind and squeak was still there.
I just completed an oil change and the right CV joint is destroyed again. This is is the third time in less than 3 years the same CV joint has failed.
There is grease everywhere and that noticeable grind and clunk is back.
I think they are cutting corners, not really fixing it just putting a new boot on and covering up the issue.
I change oil and do other basic maintenance but am far from knowledgeable about car maintenance.
As a layperson, I imagine there is something within the cv joint that is destroying the boot.
I am going to bring it back this weekend but would appreciate any guidance what I should demand be replaced.
I do not intend to hijack this thread rather add another similar experience to the original posters.
Completely stock 1999 LX 470 with 160000 miles. No off road use. AHC system is still in place and I had it serviced and parts replaced about five years ago at the same dealership.
I would estimate I have had about 12-15,000 in mostly preventative maintenance done on the car at the same dealership.
i have had the right CV replaced by Lexus of Thousand Oaks twice in the last two years.
After each replacement that grind and squeak was still there.
I just completed an oil change and the right CV joint is destroyed again. This is is the third time in less than 3 years the same CV joint has failed.
There is grease everywhere and that noticeable grind and clunk is back.
I think they are cutting corners, not really fixing it just putting a new boot on and covering up the issue.
I change oil and do other basic maintenance but am far from knowledgeable about car maintenance.
As a layperson, I imagine there is something within the cv joint that is destroying the boot.
I am going to bring it back this weekend but would appreciate any guidance what I should demand be replaced.
I do not intend to hijack this thread rather add another similar experience to the original posters.
YardPig
SILVER Star
My guess they are using aftermarket axles instead of Toyota OEM. Check your invoices, see what part numbers are associated with your hard earned money being spent at that dealer.
Has the vehicle ever been in an accident? or, to elaborate further, are front diff mounts in good condition?
Last edited:
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I would not pay for parts and labor to replace an OEM CV axle on a stock truck twice in two years. Those things last for hundreds of thousands of miles. There is nothing "in" the CV axle that will destroy a boot; as a matter of fact, no parts of the axle contact the boot, other than the drums the clamps sit on.
Make them prove they actually replaced the parts and that they used OEM parts. It's hard for me to believe that a Lexus dealership wouldn't, but don't live in California.
If you are unfamiliar with front end drive and suspension components, you need to find a knowledgable shop, or friend, who can inspect the parts for you. It's impractical to try to teach you what to look for on a internet forum. Not impossible, but not easy either. The service manual won't help you, because the diagnostic inspections listed there all require disassembly, which you can't perform without tools and at least some workshop knowledge.
You can, however, download the service manual for your year model, from the Resources section, and read up on what's there, what it's supposed to do and how to fix any problems that arise. This is always a good practice, even if you're not doing the work yourself. The more you know, the better you will be able to protect yourself from unscrupulous people.
Make them prove they actually replaced the parts and that they used OEM parts. It's hard for me to believe that a Lexus dealership wouldn't, but don't live in California.
If you are unfamiliar with front end drive and suspension components, you need to find a knowledgable shop, or friend, who can inspect the parts for you. It's impractical to try to teach you what to look for on a internet forum. Not impossible, but not easy either. The service manual won't help you, because the diagnostic inspections listed there all require disassembly, which you can't perform without tools and at least some workshop knowledge.
You can, however, download the service manual for your year model, from the Resources section, and read up on what's there, what it's supposed to do and how to fix any problems that arise. This is always a good practice, even if you're not doing the work yourself. The more you know, the better you will be able to protect yourself from unscrupulous people.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
I would look at your service invoices and make sure they're actually replacing the CV and not just rebooting, which is just fine and appropriate if it's just the boot torn and the inner joint is still intact. If you're unsure you can mark the CV metal with a paint marker and check after the service, and/or ask for the removed parts.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Pictures?
I dropped the LX back at Lexus of Thousand Oaks on Saturday. They initially at drop off they blamed the two failed CV boots on a new type of boot that does not use metal clasps rather some type of cinch.
After they had it up on the lift the mechanic believes the axles is somehow loose and causing the CV Joint to rip.
They are going to repair the CV and replace the right axle for just the cost of the right axle which they said was $600. This is about a $700 discount.
After they had it up on the lift the mechanic believes the axles is somehow loose and causing the CV Joint to rip.
They are going to repair the CV and replace the right axle for just the cost of the right axle which they said was $600. This is about a $700 discount.
YardPig
SILVER Star
The axle is part number 43430-60040 and you can look it up online for pricing...
I think your being taken for a ride.
I think your being taken for a ride.
are they replacing only the CV joint or the whole axle assy?
