Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles?

[Trunk Monkey]

Did you mark the axle in some way to ensure they actually replace it? $600 is top dollar pricing for a CV and there's no new boot or new band. I'd pick a different dealership or a good Toy/Lex indy.

 

[SMLE]

Shops see a little grease coming from a Front Drive Shaft (FDS), CV boot. They'll say it needs replacing. When often it's merely a weep, and only few table snoops have come out. If this is just from loose CV boot clamp, it can just be re-clamping. Mostly, it's the inner CV boot, small (outer) clamp we see needing replaced.

FDS at 190K likely could use refresh. Unless wheel bearing service has been properly keep up, every 30K miles.

There are few inspection/test you can do. There are others, but these are first step and easy:

1. Inspect for how much grease is lost. Grease is slung around area. Stuff stick and hard to remove. So unless steam cleaned, most all likely still there.
2. Look to see if from a hole or from between boot and metal surface boot clamps too.
3. Drive making turns & 360 circles. Listen for clicking sound (not good).
4. While idling, foot on brake. Shift from R-N-D than D-N-R repeatedly. Do you hear clunk, clank, clunk. Likely hub flange and FDS outer axle splines worn. How worn, we can get clue by watching rotation play. New FDS & hub flange have zero rotation play.

Worn splines of front drive shafts (AKA FDS, CV) outer axle and hub flange.

Thanks for these great video examples @2001LC
Please can I ask if you'd also expect the inner CV to have very little/no rotation? (I'm guessing so!) I checked mine today after seeing this (and as everything else seems to be shot too), and found the inner and outer both moved a fair amount.

I have new outer hub flanges arriving any day now which I planned to fit when I did the front brake/bearing/UCA/LCA job, it's looking like I'm going to need to do these CVs too

Ps. sorry for the thread hijack, just thought it would be useful for others to know this answer too.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for these great video examples @2001LC
Please can I ask if you'd also expect the inner CV to have very little/no rotation? (I'm guessing so!) I checked mine today after seeing this (and as everything else seems to be shot too), and found the inner and outer both moved a fair amount.

I have new outer hub flanges arriving any day now which I planned to fit when I did the front brake/bearing/UCA/LCA job, it's looking like I'm going to need to do these CVs too

Ps. sorry for the thread hijack, just thought it would be useful for others to know this answer too.

Many CV boots weep at clamp. I sung or replace clamp. Most it at inner small clamp.

I R&R a lot of FDS, in our aging fleet. Many someone install and junky aftermarket. Others OEM, damaged due to improper wheel bearing service. Waste!
Setting breakaway preload and replacing snap ring that yields good clamping force and proper hub flange to snap ring gap, are key.
Others are clicking, due often, to lifting front end, after FDS has broken in. Others hole in boot, grease gone or contaminated. Some properly maintained, last 300K miles give or take.


Toyota FSM states: No remarkable play. HUH, what does any "remarkable" play mean. If you can make a the remark (speak), it has play.

Outer CV joint, should have no play, in out or rotationally.
Inner, no rotational (radial) play. Slides smoothly in out.

That said. We can live with a little (very little) play, at say 150K miles it is expected.

We next grade the outer axle splines and snap ring groove. Hers way they get wasted needlessly.
It's the out axle, that makes me reject a lot of used and remanufactured FDS (AKA: CV).

First can axle groove hold snap ring. These get round, from reuse of snap rings.

Groove end totally gone

How much of splines remain.

New.

Always replace snap ring and grease cap.
This 2.6mm (C), is two size up from factory 2.2mm. I use 2.4mm (D, 90520-31007) the most often. Never have I use thinner than 2.2mm, rarely even a 2.2mm..

 

[2001LC]

Re using grease cap, bad idea. It may result in water entry. Water contaiminated grease truns a milky browm

How's your axle needle bearing. Axle scoring is sign, time to replace needle bearing.

Scoring or paint from remanufactured CV. Replace the needle bearing. CVJ paints, the whole axle, I hate that. Why do they. Looks nice and paint helps build thickness on worn down splines of axle. I remove paint when installing a reman, from seal & bearing riding surfaces.

Factory axle needle bearing and brass bushing grease, is white. Have yours ever been greased Lube due, every 30K, with wheel bearing service. No Dealership shop is. Slee and I, are about only ones around here that do.

Slee spindle greasing tool, use to lube needle bearing & bushing. But do not use, if any contaminating or grim in spindle or on axle. It force grease through the spindle.

When axle is out., we can grease these by handle.

It is the brass bushing wear, that most affects the snap ring gap.

Easy peasy.

 

[SMLE]

Toyota FSM states: No remarkable play. HUH, what does any "remarkable" play mean. If you can make a the remark (speak), it has play.

Outer CV joint, should have no play, in out or rotationally.
Inner, no rotational (radial) play. Slides smoothly in out.
View attachment 3821839

That said. We can live with a little (very little) play, at say 150K miles it is expected.

We next grade the outer axle splines and snap ring groove. Hers way they get wasted needlessly.
It's the out axle, that makes me reject a lot of used and remanufactured FDS (AKA: CV).

Thank you as always @2001LC - you've answered my question about appropriate 'travel'. In this case my CV joints have had it. and as I'm now doing those, I'll do the needle bearings at the same time, what fun
Everything in my being is telling me to stay away from aftermarket stuff because I simply don't want to have to replace in a year or two but I'm absolutely spent out from this vehicle. I'm going to hunt around and see what price I can get!
My local dealer confirmed they wanted £2400 for the 2 sides (parts only), the usual sites e.g. partsouq etc are coming in a lot more reasonable.

 

[2001LC]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

 

[SMLE]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

Sadly they don't seem to ship abroad, that's a shame as they are very cheap! I'll keep having a look around! thanks

 

[SMLE]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

Best deal I got in the end was via ebay, from UAE. Paid $481 a piece + $191 total shipping, but I'll still have to pay approx 20% in duties/VAT when they arrive here too. I appreciate that's a lot more than you'd pay in the states but my local dealer offered 2 CV axles for £2500/$3080 when I called up yesterday, so I'm still pretty happy with that, and have managed to avoid going down the aftermarket route which is a success in itself.

 

[Gartenmeister]

Resurrecting this thread for advice on what to do about a grease-throwing boot. New-to-me truck with little/no history. I believe the "leak" is the spot I've marked, and the grease is fresh on a recently cleaned area. There are likely more "leaks" (on both sides) as everything is pretty grungy under there. There are no obvious/catastrophic tears.

No lift, no wheeling, no clicking or other remarkable noise. I DO have a significant drivetrain thunk, sometimes. I did the D-N-R test from post #39 and the PS (pictured above) seems pretty solid. DS has more play but doesn't seem too bad?



I've read through this thread and others but I am still not really sure of the best plan for getting this fixed. Boots or axles? Replacing the boots looks like a ton of work and is definitely beyond my abilities. What should I expect it to cost (in hours) for a shop to replace them all? Would make things easier to order new FDS assemblies, flanges and seals from the current sale? Seems like the labor would be about the same. Or am I missing something? Advice appreciated.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Throw on some new bands, either OEM or screw type, there's specific ones that won't cut the rubber.

 

[2001LC]

I'd re-band, with NAPA CV large clamps. Easy, cheap and work great.

 

[Gartenmeister]

Throw on some new bands, either OEM or screw type, there's specific ones that won't cut the rubber.

I'd re-band, with NAPA CV large clamps. Easy, cheap and work great.

OK...feeling kind of dumb now, I didn't realize that replacement clamps can be installed without tearing the whole thing apart. Somehow I thought they were unbroken rings. Anyway, that should be well within my abilities, thanks for the tip. One more question, should I try to stuff some more grease back into the boots?

 

[2001LC]

OK...feeling kind of dumb now, I didn't realize that replacement clamps can be installed without tearing the whole thing apart. Somehow I thought they were unbroken rings. Anyway, that should be well within my abilities, thanks for the tip. One more question, should I try to stuff some more grease back into the boots?

It doesn't look like (pictures), you lost to much. So I'd not bother adding more grease. If you feel loss is to much, perhaps.
Best if same grease used. So no concerns with compatibility of mixing greases. Which CV grease comes in Toyota boot kit.

 

[scubadoober]

While you are in there replace your front endlinks.

 

[Gartenmeister]

Best if same grease used.

Yeah. I see the real deal only comes in the boot kit. Suggestions for an acceptable top-up grease? Preferably something common that I can get locally?

While you are in there replace your front endlinks.

For the swaybar? I do have those parts on order, thanks.

 

[abuck99]

Ive used Green Grease which is very close in texture and has good properties, it will mix fine with the Toyota grease. As @2001LC mentioned, you probably dont need to add any- based on the small spattering you have pictured there. NOTE: Adding too much grease beyond the very specific fill quantity very likely will split your boot in the near term. A little less is better than a little more (imo).

 

[Bloomer]

Good post here! Seeing some weeping and slinging of grease around inner CV boot on passenger side. It’s a relatively new OEM complete axle assembly installed about a year ago at a Toyota dealer. The CV axle is one that I purchased some years ago and kept in my inventory for emergency, so while new it is technically a few years old having been sitting boxed in my garage.

I cannot find where there are any tears or holes in the boot, but did notice I can move the boot on the axle. This leads me to think the band is loose and needs replaced.

Does anyone know the part number for bands and what tool is used to install? Is it fairly straightforward to do? Any tricks to removing the old band and not damage the boot?

Based on what I’ve read, I’m leaning towards not adding more grease. Found a thread that said too much is worse than being a little less. Nonetheless, is there a recommended grease should I get it separated and decide to add?

 

[GTV]

Good post here! Seeing some weeping and slinging of grease around inner CV boot on passenger side. It’s a relatively new OEM complete axle assembly installed about a year ago at a Toyota dealer. The CV axle is one that I purchased some years ago and kept in my inventory for emergency, so while new it is technically a few years old having been sitting boxed in my garage.

I cannot find where there are any tears or holes in the boot, but did notice I can move the boot on the axle. This leads me to think the band is loose and needs replaced.

Does anyone know the part number for bands and what tool is used to install? Is it fairly straightforward to do? Any tricks to removing the old band and not damage the boot?

Based on what I’ve read, I’m leaving towards not adding more grease. Found a thread that said too much is worse than being a little less. Nonetheless, is there a recommended grease should I get it separated and decide to add?

It’s common for them to leak by the bands. I carefully cut mine off with a pair of side cutters and replaced them with quality screw type clamps. The grease is different for inner and outer joints, it’s available from Toyota.