Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles?

[Trunk Monkey]

Did you mark the axle in some way to ensure they actually replace it? $600 is top dollar pricing for a CV and there's no new boot or new band. I'd pick a different dealership or a good Toy/Lex indy.

 

[SMLE]

Shops see a little grease coming from a Front Drive Shaft (FDS), CV boot. They'll say it needs replacing. When often it's merely a weep, and only few table snoops have come out. If this is just from loose CV boot clamp, it can just be re-clamping. Mostly, it's the inner CV boot, small (outer) clamp we see needing replaced.

FDS at 190K likely could use refresh. Unless wheel bearing service has been properly keep up, every 30K miles.

There are few inspection/test you can do. There are others, but these are first step and easy:

1. Inspect for how much grease is lost. Grease is slung around area. Stuff stick and hard to remove. So unless steam cleaned, most all likely still there.
2. Look to see if from a hole or from between boot and metal surface boot clamps too.
3. Drive making turns & 360 circles. Listen for clicking sound (not good).
4. While idling, foot on brake. Shift from R-N-D than D-N-R repeatedly. Do you hear clunk, clank, clunk. Likely hub flange and FDS outer axle splines worn. How worn, we can get clue by watching rotation play. New FDS & hub flange have zero rotation play.

Worn splines of front drive shafts (AKA FDS, CV) outer axle and hub flange.

Thanks for these great video examples @2001LC
Please can I ask if you'd also expect the inner CV to have very little/no rotation? (I'm guessing so!) I checked mine today after seeing this (and as everything else seems to be shot too), and found the inner and outer both moved a fair amount.

I have new outer hub flanges arriving any day now which I planned to fit when I did the front brake/bearing/UCA/LCA job, it's looking like I'm going to need to do these CVs too

Ps. sorry for the thread hijack, just thought it would be useful for others to know this answer too.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for these great video examples @2001LC
Please can I ask if you'd also expect the inner CV to have very little/no rotation? (I'm guessing so!) I checked mine today after seeing this (and as everything else seems to be shot too), and found the inner and outer both moved a fair amount.

I have new outer hub flanges arriving any day now which I planned to fit when I did the front brake/bearing/UCA/LCA job, it's looking like I'm going to need to do these CVs too

Ps. sorry for the thread hijack, just thought it would be useful for others to know this answer too.

Many CV boots weep at clamp. I sung or replace clamp. Most it at inner small clamp.

I R&R a lot of FDS, in our aging fleet. Many someone install and junky aftermarket. Others OEM, damaged due to improper wheel bearing service. Waste!
Setting breakaway preload and replacing snap ring that yields good clamping force and proper hub flange to snap ring gap, are key.
Others are clicking, due often, to lifting front end, after FDS has broken in. Others hole in boot, grease gone or contaminated. Some properly maintained, last 300K miles give or take.


Toyota FSM states: No remarkable play. HUH, what does any "remarkable" play mean. If you can make a the remark (speak), it has play.

Outer CV joint, should have no play, in out or rotationally.
Inner, no rotational (radial) play. Slides smoothly in out.

That said. We can live with a little (very little) play, at say 150K miles it is expected.

We next grade the outer axle splines and snap ring groove. Hers way they get wasted needlessly.
It's the out axle, that makes me reject a lot of used and remanufactured FDS (AKA: CV).

First can axle groove hold snap ring. These get round, from reuse of snap rings.

Groove end totally gone

How much of splines remain.

New.

Always replace snap ring and grease cap.
This 2.6mm (C), is two size up from factory 2.2mm. I use 2.4mm (D, 90520-31007) the most often. Never have I use thinner than 2.2mm, rarely even a 2.2mm..

 

[2001LC]

Re using grease cap, bad idea. It may result in water entry. Water contaiminated grease truns a milky browm

How's your axle needle bearing. Axle scoring is sign, time to replace needle bearing.

Scoring or paint from remanufactured CV. Replace the needle bearing. CVJ paints, the whole axle, I hate that. Why do they. Looks nice and paint helps build thickness on worn down splines of axle. I remove paint when installing a reman, from seal & bearing riding surfaces.

Factory axle needle bearing and brass bushing grease, is white. Have yours ever been greased Lube due, every 30K, with wheel bearing service. No Dealership shop is. Slee and I, are about only ones around here that do.

Slee spindle greasing tool, use to lube needle bearing & bushing. But do not use, if any contaminating or grim in spindle or on axle. It force grease through the spindle.

When axle is out., we can grease these by handle.

It is the brass bushing wear, that most affects the snap ring gap.

Easy peasy.

 

[SMLE]

Toyota FSM states: No remarkable play. HUH, what does any "remarkable" play mean. If you can make a the remark (speak), it has play.

Outer CV joint, should have no play, in out or rotationally.
Inner, no rotational (radial) play. Slides smoothly in out.
View attachment 3821839

That said. We can live with a little (very little) play, at say 150K miles it is expected.

We next grade the outer axle splines and snap ring groove. Hers way they get wasted needlessly.
It's the out axle, that makes me reject a lot of used and remanufactured FDS (AKA: CV).

Thank you as always @2001LC - you've answered my question about appropriate 'travel'. In this case my CV joints have had it. and as I'm now doing those, I'll do the needle bearings at the same time, what fun
Everything in my being is telling me to stay away from aftermarket stuff because I simply don't want to have to replace in a year or two but I'm absolutely spent out from this vehicle. I'm going to hunt around and see what price I can get!
My local dealer confirmed they wanted £2400 for the 2 sides (parts only), the usual sites e.g. partsouq etc are coming in a lot more reasonable.

 

[2001LC]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

 

[SMLE]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

Sadly they don't seem to ship abroad, that's a shame as they are very cheap! I'll keep having a look around! thanks

 

[SMLE]

I've a thread in this tech section, of a 25% off wholesale, sales. Use only the toyota Dealership I linked in, for best re-packaging! Or they get damaged.
The sales come and go, so watch for one. They include $200 shipping credit. Make two orders, and get two $200 credits if need be. If they ship overseas (IDK)

Best deal I got in the end was via ebay, from UAE. Paid $481 a piece + $191 total shipping, but I'll still have to pay approx 20% in duties/VAT when they arrive here too. I appreciate that's a lot more than you'd pay in the states but my local dealer offered 2 CV axles for £2500/$3080 when I called up yesterday, so I'm still pretty happy with that, and have managed to avoid going down the aftermarket route which is a success in itself.