Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles? (1 Viewer)

[VarCity69]

I'm lifted, with no diff drop. My original CVs were toast prior to lift, and I ended up getting aftermarket CVs. They lasted about 50k miles before the boots tore, but no noises or clicking. It's pretty hard to believe a set of OEM CVs would be misbehaving so early even on a lifted w/out drop cruiser.

That being said.. because I live in an area with virtually zero chance of driving in ice/snow often, I opted to recently install a part time kit from @cruiseroutfit . This kit is cheaper than replacing a set of OEM CVs, and disables the front driveline from rotating unless the hubs are locked or the case is locked. There are several benefits to this IMO, but one of the highest on the list is that the CVs no longer do anything unless I am in 4x.

The collaboration on this forum is great, but I need solutions people! Let’s go! LOL

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The collaboration on this forum is great, but I need solutions people! Let’s go! LOL

Lower the front end 0.5-1”.

 

[G-Cat]

CVJ and they’re trash. The CV axles they “rebuild” are used and typically have outboard splines that are beat to death. And their “rebuild” process is nothing more than removing the old boots, cleaning out the old grease, adding new grease, and installing new boots. You can do that yourself with a $60 boot kit from Toyota and save yourself from wasting another $200 to CVJ.

Yikes. Thanks for the background!

 

[YardPig]

Do your 'factory oem' axles have yellow boot clamps? Are you sure they were not 'factory reman', as these also exist...

 

[2001LC]

I started seeing non yellow clamps on new OEM FDS (picked-up at Toyota), in last year or so. I assume supply lines issues. They seem just as good.

 

[YardPig]

Without knowing what was installed into his unit, we are all guessing as to quality... I find it hard to believe he's blowing through OEM NEW axles even if lifted to the max, unless Mr. T is now outsourcing axles to inferior quality new or he has reman axles installed. What did OP pay for his axles should be some of the answer.

Toyota Remanufactured CV Axle

I really hate to rehash old ground, but when confronted with replacing a CV axle... I know I don't want to go aftermarket. I am rebuilding one of my shafts, but the other is of unknown origin (not OEM). I see several Toyota dealers listing "Genuine Toyota Remanufactured 43430-60040" for...

forum.ih8mud.com

Toyota "Value Line" new CV Axles - Any Experience?

I know this is yet another CV axle thread, but in researching for options, my father-in-law has a connection for Toyota parts through his body shop. The price for the new OE axles were no surprise at over $400, but the dealer also offered a Toyota Value Line axle that was also a new part at...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[VarCity69]

So for those interested, this is what I’ve been able to find out about this issue thanks to Ben at Slee Off-road. The 100s are extremely sensitive to aftermarket CVS. For mysterious reasons, they just don’t last. Ben told me they had a 100 in recently with with a CV less than a week old, and it was already done for. You’ve got to replace with a genuine Toyota. You also have to replace the flange at the same time, as well as grease the brass fitting that goes with the flange. Follow this protocol, and you should be good. Thanks to everyone providing insight on this - greatly appreciated.

 

[YardPig]

The aftermarket CV's only have four balls in the cage vs six in OEM Toyota. With any lift the aftermarket bind and tear them apart in short order.

 

[2001LC]

So for those interested, this is what I’ve been able to find out about this issue thanks to Ben at Slee Off-road. The 100s are extremely sensitive to aftermarket CVS. For mysterious reasons, they just don’t last. Ben told me they had a 100 in recently with with a CV less than a week old, and it was already done for. You’ve got to replace with a genuine Toyota. You also have to replace the flange at the same time, as well as grease the brass fitting that goes with the flange. Follow this protocol, and you should be good. Thanks to everyone providing insight on this - greatly appreciated.

I'll add some parts to the list.

1. Oil seal, diff side. Last thing you'll want is to go back in, due to gear lube leak.
2. Cone washers, for the new Hub flanges. Good used hub flange and cone washers, can be used. But best is to seat all new, w/new axle of FDS (AKA CV), to get max clunk free miles.
3. Snap ring, and sized for proper gap. Always replace, anytime removed is best practice for health of axle groove. Setting gap is essential to health of splines.
4. Grease cap. Must be tight, to seal out water.

I've heard of one new OEM FDS busting locally. But the rig is triple locked, TRD super charge beast. I suspect it bounce/hoped off the rocks on a climb while off road.

 

[yj668]

On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.

 

[blinkerfluid]

What can I do to fix it?
Bought cruiser with 155,000 miles replaced both cv axle joints with new Toyota and installed Slee diff drop kit. 30,000 miles later and I already had to replace the right one and now the left one is going out. Any ideas on what I can check or do to keep them from wearing out so quick, my off-roading would be considered mild at worst

Is the 100 lifted? if yes how high

 

[2001LC]

On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.
View attachment 2983424

Well that's interesting.

 

[abuck99]

There’s a company that offers CV axels for lifted 100s. They use OEM Toyota CVs and rebuild them for use with lift.

They have a red rather than a black boot.

My mushy brain can’t remember what changes they make, the name of the company, or if any 100 Series owners have had luck with them.

Useless post, I know…just hoping someone has more info.

Maybe you’re thinking of RCV?

They make uprated axles for Toyotas but nothing for 100’s on the website.

RCV Performance

 

[OwnerCS]

On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.
View attachment 2983424

They have the correct markings. Found this about oils seals.

I've noticed some of the highest quality outdoor adventure wear clothing and off-road tool bags now come from Vietnam. I know of one company that says that is the only place where they can get intricate stitching that's become a lost art in other places.

Toyota Vietnam Motor Company is an Importer in Vietnam | Bill of Lading Data of Toyota Vietnam Motor Company

Toyota Vietnam Motor Company is an importer of Vietnam. Check where Toyota Vietnam Motor Company imports from? who is the supplier of the company. Get each & every shipment details from bill of lading data of Toyota Vietnam Motor Company.

www.exportgenius.in

 

[yj668]

Looks like Made in Vietnam RH differential oil seals are in full circulation within Toyota's US distribution now. I bought another spare oil seal to see if I'd get a Japanese one from the Lexus 4th of July sale, nope. Left side was still Japanese made when I received mine early this year.

Pretty much what happened to Japanese manufactured oil filters are now happening on FDS oil seals too.

 

[trdcorolla]

Looks like Made in Vietnam RH differential oil seals are in full circulation within Toyota's US distribution now. I bought another spare oil seal to see if I'd get a Japanese one from the Lexus 4th of July sale, nope. Left side was still Japanese made when I received mine early this year.

Pretty much what happened to Japanese manufactured oil filters are now happening on FDS oil seals too.
View attachment 3047632

The OEM seals are made by NOK. I wonder if you call local off road shops that specialize in Toyota, they might stock these NOK seals and if they are older stock, they should be made in Japan. Or you can probably call your local dealer, they might have a Japanese one on their shelf.

 

[yj668]

The OEM seals are made by NOK. I wonder if you call local off road shops that specialize in Toyota, they might stock these NOK seals and if they are older stock, they should be made in Japan. Or you can probably call your local dealer, they might have a Japanese one on their shelf.

RH: NOK BH5321F
LH: NOK BH53201

 

[PharmerDan100]

Always replace the drive flange (and circ clip with proper thickness) with the CV's, they should last hundreds of thousands of miles with no issue, not thousands. I replaced mine around 300k and they had very little wear, easily could have gone much further.

On average, is around 300k the usual lifespan of CV axles?

I ask because I recently picked up a stock 100 series with about 190k miles on it, never been offroad, used essentially as a minivan by the original owner to drive around town and haul the family. I took it to a shop for a post-purchase inspection and they recommended and quoted me for a CV axle & hub flange replacement job around $2,400. I was shocked because I didn't recall seeing any leaks or tears around the CV boots. Wondering if I should hold off on such a costly repair until I see more obvious leaks or boot tear, or should I just pre-emptively replace them at this age to get my car "baselined"?

 

[2001LC]

On average, is around 300k the usual lifespan of CV axles?

I ask because I recently picked up a stock 100 series with about 190k miles on it, never been offroad, used essentially as a minivan by the original owner to drive around town and haul the family. I took it to a shop for a post-purchase inspection and they recommended and quoted me for a CV axle & hub flange replacement job around $2,400. I was shocked because I didn't recall seeing any leaks or tears around the CV boots. Wondering if I should hold off on such a costly repair until I see more obvious leaks or boot tear, or should I just pre-emptively replace them at this age to get my car "baselined"?

Shops see a little grease coming from a Front Drive Shaft (FDS), CV boot. They'll say it needs replacing. When often it's merely a weep, and only few table snoops have come out. If this is just from loose CV boot clamp, it can just be re-clamping. Mostly, it's the inner CV boot, small (outer) clamp we see needing replaced.

FDS at 190K likely could use refresh. Unless wheel bearing service has been properly keep up, every 30K miles.

There are few inspection/test you can do. There are others, but these are first step and easy:

1. Inspect for how much grease is lost. Grease is slung around area. Stuff stick and hard to remove. So unless steam cleaned, most all likely still there.
2. Look to see if from a hole or from between boot and metal surface boot clamps too.
3. Drive making turns & 360 circles. Listen for clicking sound (not good).
4. While idling, foot on brake. Shift from R-N-D than D-N-R repeatedly. Do you hear clunk, clank, clunk. Likely hub flange and FDS outer axle splines worn. How worn, we can get clue by watching rotation play. New FDS & hub flange have zero rotation play.

Worn splines of front drive shafts (AKA FDS, CV) outer axle and hub flange.

 

[Land Shark]

On average, is around 300k the usual lifespan of CV axles?

I ask because I recently picked up a stock 100 series with about 190k miles on it, never been offroad, used essentially as a minivan by the original owner to drive around town and haul the family. I took it to a shop for a post-purchase inspection and they recommended and quoted me for a CV axle & hub flange replacement job around $2,400. I was shocked because I didn't recall seeing any leaks or tears around the CV boots. Wondering if I should hold off on such a costly repair until I see more obvious leaks or boot tear, or should I just pre-emptively replace them at this age to get my car "baselined"?

WTF! 2400$ for one CV and one drive flange? That is complete thievery. Please do not pay that kind of money. CV is not hard to do and the drive flange even easier.