Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles? (2 Viewers)

[arcadian]

What can I do to fix it?
Bought cruiser with 155,000 miles replaced both cv axle joints with new Toyota and installed Slee diff drop kit. 30,000 miles later and I already had to replace the right one and now the left one is going out. Any ideas on what I can check or do to keep them from wearing out so quick, my off-roading would be considered mild at worst

 

[JunkCrzr89]

What do you mean by “going out” and “wearing out”?

 

[arcadian]

Making clunking noise or clicking when starting in motion or turning

 

[PrinceJabar]

Think you could post a vid of the clicking you mention, trying to confirm if I have the same issue on a non-OEM cv. Did you change the Drive flange as well when replacing the axle?

 

[arcadian]

Can’t get video where it can be heard. They did not change out the drive flange.

 

[Patassa]

Can’t get video where it can be heard. They did not change out the drive flange.

Always replace the drive flange (and circ clip with proper thickness) with the CV's, they should last hundreds of thousands of miles with no issue, not thousands. I replaced mine around 300k and they had very little wear, easily could have gone much further.

 

[clrussell]

How high is your lift set?

Can you 100% confirm they were new Toyota axles not the reman ones?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Do you have a picture of your bump steer?

 

[NOSAJ]

I’d check your torsion bars and make sure you aren’t set too high. There is a measurement on mud maybe in the faq. You measure from the center hub to the fender. Anything higher than this measurement put too much angle on the axels. This was happening to me. I’d rebuild axles and it would rip open boots. After I lowered my torsion bars it stopped happening.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’d check your torsion bars and make sure you aren’t set too high. There is a measurement on mud maybe in the faq. You measure from the center hub to the fender. Anything higher than this measurement put too much angle on the axels. This was happening to me. I’d rebuild axles and it would rip open boots. After I lowered my torsion bars it stopped happening.

21.5” or higher without IFS modifications and she’ll be riding like a damn stagecoach and destroying CV axles.

 

[arcadian]

Thanks, I will check the torsion bar setting. Axles we’re new Toyota oem not rebuilt.

 

[C6H12O6]

21.5” or higher without IFS modifications and she’ll be riding like a damn stagecoach and destroying CV axles.

What IFS modifications are you referring to, specifically? Diff drop? Aftermarket UCAs? Something else?

 

[jLB]

21.5” or higher without IFS modifications and she’ll be riding like a damn stagecoach and destroying CV axles.

I’d argue that:

1) The stagecoach ride starts at above ~20.5-21”, on a stockish suspension, due to lack of droop, before you really start stressing the CV axles.

2) Even with the bolt-on bandaids to help with droop, the ride still goes to s*** at above ~21.5”, even with plenty of droop. I suspect that it has to do with control arm angles becoming more vertical.

3) A diff drop will help with CV angles, but what are you really gaining in “lift” if you’re going to turn around and lower the differential?

Or maybe you were talking more about custom modifications, and less about bolt-ons?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’d argue that:

1) The stagecoach ride starts at above ~20.5-21”, on a stockish suspension, due to lack of droop, before you really start stressing the CV axles.

2) Even with the bolt-on bandaids to help with droop, the ride still goes to s*** at above ~21.5”, even with plenty of droop. I suspect that it has to do with control arm angles becoming more vertical.

3) A diff drop will help with CV angles, but what are you really gaining in “lift” if you’re going to turn around and lower the differential?

Or maybe you were talking more about custom modifications, and less about bolt-ons?

I agree completely with everything you said. I was referring to expensive custom IFS mods (torsion bar delete for coilovers, longer control arms, etc) that might allow you to go over 21.5” without riding like $hit.

 

[jLB]

I agree completely with everything you said. I was referring to expensive custom IFS mods (torsion bar delete for coilovers, longer control arms, etc) that might allow you to go over 21.5” without riding like $hit.

That sounds experimental and/or expensive...

Don't worry, @JunkCrzr89 will be along shortly with a "SAS it!"

 

[VarCity69]

What can I do to fix it?
Bought cruiser with 155,000 miles replaced both cv axle joints with new Toyota and installed Slee diff drop kit. 30,000 miles later and I already had to replace the right one and now the left one is going out. Any ideas on what I can check or do to keep them from wearing out so quick, my off-roading would be considered mild at worst

What you end up doing to remedy this? I’m having same issue with my’99. Installed a 2.5” OME lift from Slee (with diff drop) and have gone through 2 CVs in two years.

 

[G-Cat]

There’s a company that offers CV axels for lifted 100s. They use OEM Toyota CVs and rebuild them for use with lift.

They have a red rather than a black boot.

My mushy brain can’t remember what changes they make, the name of the company, or if any 100 Series owners have had luck with them.

Useless post, I know…just hoping someone has more info.

 

[VarCity69]

There’s a company that offers CV axels for lifted 100s. They use OEM Toyota CVs and rebuild them for use with lift.

They have a red rather than a black boot.

My mushy brain can’t remember what changes they make, the name of the company, or if any 100 Series owners have had luck with them.

Useless post, I know…just hoping someone has more info.

Thanks G-Cat. Perhaps you’re referring to the CVJ axels - they’re on my short list for possible fixes. But I too have not heard of any experiences in with them.

 

[DTCsk8er]

I'm lifted, with no diff drop. My original CVs were toast prior to lift, and I ended up getting aftermarket CVs. They lasted about 50k miles before the boots tore, but no noises or clicking. It's pretty hard to believe a set of OEM CVs would be misbehaving so early even on a lifted w/out drop cruiser.

That being said.. because I live in an area with virtually zero chance of driving in ice/snow often, I opted to recently install a part time kit from @cruiseroutfit . This kit is cheaper than replacing a set of OEM CVs, and disables the front driveline from rotating unless the hubs are locked or the case is locked. There are several benefits to this IMO, but one of the highest on the list is that the CVs no longer do anything unless I am in 4x.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

There’s a company that offers CV axels for lifted 100s. They use OEM Toyota CVs and rebuild them for use with lift.

CVJ and they’re trash. The CV axles they “rebuild” are used and typically have outboard splines that are beat to death. And their “rebuild” process is nothing more than removing the old boots, cleaning out the old grease, adding new grease, and installing new boots. You can do that yourself with a $60 boot kit from Toyota and save yourself from wasting another $200 to CVJ.