Why do some trucks get vibration after lift and others with similar setup do not?

[flyboy56]

I just got off the phone with Christo, I was ready to order the 4" kit and he wanted to let me know there was no guarantee that it would not vibrate, and if I didn't want to run 35" tires I could go with the 2.5" OME lift.

He said there is no rhyme or reason as to why some do and some do not and I was wondering if there was a leading theory as to why this is.

Is there a rough percentage as to the trucks that do get a vibration.

He informed me that I could got with the part time 4wd kit if it does vibrate.

I was all stoked to get the lift, but now I am hesitant. It is not my DD but I really don't want to jump in to a giant vibrator when I want to run around.

Needing a little guidance from you more experienced mudders. I did a search and and it seemed like there was no suspect components just a variety of issues.

Truck is in really good shape.
146k miles factory e lockers

I will be adding an arg front bumper with winch and a Sean rear bumper.

Currently have 32" tires on it. They are new, and I'm not into running the biggest tire possible.

I'm not looking to make the ultimate off road machine, just want to be more capable on the trails.

Maybe the 2.5" OME is the best route?

Thanks for your input.

John

 

[greentruck]

John,
I've never had a long talk with Christo about lifts, because there's not much to talk about with the stock height OME coils

But I think he's just making you aware that you can experience vibration when lifting a truck that may require further work or investment to eliminate. I don't run them, but lots of guys here driving trucks with big tires and they're not vibrating, for the most part.

There are two big reasons why two trucks aren't the same. From the factory, trucks are built to certain tolerances. But they just aren't exactly alike. The differences can be minute and they all fit within factory tolerances to pass final inspection, but taken together it means that one truck that is lifted and is fine doesn't prevent something vibrating after installation on the next truck. This includes such things as driveshaft balance, how well the yokes and u-joints work together, tires, wheels, etc.

And every truck sees different wear and tear, making the possibility of something causing a problem even greater. Maybe you tweaked a driveshaft on the trail one time, but never noticed it. Lift the truck and all of a sudden you've got a problem that is not a failure of the kit, but which arose because of what was changed in installing the lift.

Hope this explains things a little better. I'm always a fan of running no more lift than you need -- and close to stock works well for me. I'd go with 2.5 if I didn't really need the clearance of the 4" if that was a choice I needed to make.

If you have tired original coils and only intend to run 32 or 33" tires, then the 861/862 stock height coils work great. They really enliven the suspension and are an easy install (provided no hassles with the rear shock mount bolts).

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Unqualified shot in the dark answer: Proper vs. improper installation of caster correction parts.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I had OME 2.5 before my Slee 4". Neither had/have vibes. Only reason I went to 4" is because of Cummins conversion. Would have been happy to keep the 2.5" which really gave me around a 3" lift. I had bushings with the 2.5 and now run correction plates with the 4". I did not need to install new driveshafts.

 

[scottryana]

If you are on 32" tires not looking to run the biggest tire available, I would stick with the 2.5" OME. I am running a 2.5" OME with a fairly light weight build and 315's and I have only ever rubbed once. I think Slee's 4" setup is awesome, but it really comes down to your intended use for the truck, be honest with yourself about the intended use and it will drive your purchase in the right direction, whether that is 2" or 6".

 

[flyboy56]

I appreciate the feedback so far, please keep it coming. I think part of the attraction to the 4" was the overall look of the truck and that's why I inquired about that one. The 40 I had was spring over, sr, cut and turn housing with swappers and it was a little over kill for me. I was splitting the 2.5 and 6" lifts- more than choosing it for intended purpose of truck.

 

[scottryana]

Hey looking cool is a purpose

 

[Delancy]

It is not my DD but I really don't want to jump in to a giant vibrator when I want to run around.

Meh, the chicks dig it.

 

[flyboy56]

Meh, the chicks dig it.

Haha! A few years ago I would have probably seen that as a bonus! But the only chicks in it will be the wife and two daughters now.

 

[angerhater]

A few factors that can cause vibrations:

knobby tires- and older tires rubber gets hard, and out of round/scalloped due to mis-alignment and out of balance (also caused by mud in/on the rims), and uneven tire pressure. I imagine these are the most common reasons

a ding in the driveshaft will change its balance, and some decide that after dinging it "I need a lift kit" changing its geometry can also affect it

the balance/imbalance of load within and on the chassis, coupled with harmonics at highway speeds

at least thats what the voices in my head tell me.....what? wait....ok, but my wife wont be happy about it....now....where are my meds......lol

 

[Delancy]

But the only chick in it will be the wife

And the problem is?

3 ton Magic Wand.

There are many factors to consider, but there's little rhyme or reason, once it's established it not being driveline angles.

Here's my experience, abbreviated.

Lift only and install double cardan shaft. Vibrates.

Rebuild/Balance OE shaft and swap. No vibrations.

Sell first double cardan shaft.

Robbie Antonson gears diffs, TC, new output bearings and seals on TC, everything except the axle housing is new OE, and it vibrates with the exact same OE shaft.

He puts in a fifteen year old DC shaft he had on his truck. No vibrations.

I get it back, pull his drive shaft (loaned) install a second, purchased LT DC shaft, and it vibrates.

Install the original OE shaft and it vibrates.

Get a double, double cardan shaft. No vibrations.

An interesting tidbit on why I believe Robbie's DC shaft did not vibrate, but LTs did. Robbie's was pinched in the slip yoke where the OE sway bar hits and wouldn't compress beyond, so thinking that the minimal movement allowed may have temporarily ceased vibration.

That, in and of itself, leads my to think that there was either just enough play in the two LT shafts to allow movement, as they're designed to, but turns out, all of the above shafts were too short by an 1 1/4", anyway, so not a representative sample of any other lifted 80 (I have an oddball set up).

Could be bearings, driveline angles, or play in shaft. There's only so much it can be, and to properly diagnose, the output bearings on TC and diff would need to be replaced, if all indicators on driveline angles fall within the parameters of a simple cardan/double cardan shaft.

 

[CONFUSED]

IMO get the 2.5" OME lift, install the caster bushing correctly, install the desired size of tire and call it a day.
Then eventually, like most of us on here you will start getting the urge to go higher or bigger tire size or both.

 

[western flyer]

IMO get the 2.5" OME lift, install the caster bushing correctly, install the desired size of tire and call it a day.
Then eventually, like most of us on here you will start getting the urge to go higher or bigger tire size or both.

This where I am at/going...

 

[flyboy56]

I did order the 2.5 ome kit today, so I am off to start spraying some nuts and bolts with some lube. I use pb blaster anyone have any better suggestions on that. Thanks for everyone's feedback.

 

[tpizza01]

I've heard the same about lifting. SOme trucks get it, some don't. I'm looking at adding the 2.5/3 OME with 35s/315 and was all for it until hearing about driveline vibe. Knowing me I am going to just chance it, but it is not very encouraging to hear the possibilities. It's also not very encouraging knowing that some of the fixes may or may not help the issue. I can tell you that I will not be happy unless I lift it, so I think we all have to consider that aspect of it as well - Will you be happy if you don't lift it? IF so then maybe get some better stock height and go with that. You can still go up a tire size or two without having to worry abotu rubbing or anything else, and that might add an inch as well.

 

[landtank]

it comes down to a few factors.

Parts used, not all designs are created equal!

wear on stock components that remain after the lift install.

Random acts of modification by the owner that effect drive line geometry such as shimming the trans mount to gain some t-case clearance or adding spring spacers and not including them as part of the lift calculations.

Look at the list and do your best to eliminate what you can prior to the purchase and install.

IMO there is no reason that any truck should vibrate after a proper 4" lift is installed. If it does then the problem needs to be identified and corrected. However that is more easily said then done. And providing phone support to a novice can be frustrating for both parties at times.

 

[itbrokeagain]

Fwiw my 4 inch has no vibrations.

 

[packetstormin]

[

the balance/imbalance of load within and on the chassis, coupled with harmonics at highway speeds


This is an interesting notion because my body mounts are all pancaked very bad. They are all very hard. I wonder if new body bushings might help.

 

[B Point]

Lets see...."6 of lift, aged Toyo Open Country 35's, diesel turbo with 3 inch exhaust.....

Mine not only vibrates...but grumbles, groans, squeaks, rattles and farts.....just like it's owner.

 

[Azca]

I got the 2 1/2 OME medium lift from Slee as well. I am not happy with my castor however, I would also order one set of his 3 degree bushings, the OME bushings were not enough to bring it back into spec.