Why cross-drilled rotors are stupid on an 80

[clownmidget]

These have at least 80% wear left. Yes, those cracks go all the way through. Hard braking was close to scary with the steering wheel trying to shake itself out of your hands.

Rant off, thanks.

 

[iwashmycar]

Yep. I had Powerstop ones on mine for maybe 10K before they warped front and rear. Can't be turned (by anyone I know), Junk.

 

[UnderDawg]

Yikes man, what make rotors?

 

[NLXTACY]

I got about 20k out of mine. Junk.

 

[Tapage]

good to know .. I was always willing to try 'em in order to gain some extra stopping distance ..

 

[1973Guppie]

ugh, I used slotted and drilled rotors I got from rockauto, I have the wobble during braking, I was hoping it was my tie rod ends, replaced those so we will see, really hope I don't have to dig into that front axle again and replace the rotors......

 

[Wheelingnoob]

The slotted DBA rotors are holding up great. After having a cross drilled rotor blow apart on a track car at 100MPH I will never use them on any car again.

 

[Stevesnj]

Got slotted rotors from brakeperformance.com, AWESOME!!!

 

[scottryana]

Hmmm I have a set of the cryo Stoptech's that I was going to use on the front. Will be interesting to see how they do. But looks like they won't do well. lol.

 

[lumbee1]

I would not recommend economy and even midgrade cross drilled rotors with a heavy vehicle. They simply cannot handle the stress of stopping a heavy vehicle and tend to crack at the holes from heat cycling. Slotted rotors are better but the slots can serve as stress fracture points just like the holes in cross drilling. Slots do not penetrate very deep into the surface and therefore they are less likely to crack but there is still the potential.

I have had cryo treated slotted rotors on the front of my Nissan Maxima for 8 years. They have never been turned, never warped, the thickness is well within spec, and they are in fantastic shape. I beat the hell out of this car and the engine is toast after 168K miles.

I am going to install NAPA premium blanks front and rear on my Landcruiser. Simple, effective, and heavy. If you are looking for better braking, pads will have a bigger effect on braking performance. From my understanding, Akebono makes the OEM pads. I purchased aftermarket Akebono pads (100 series fronts) and they are not as good as the OEM pads.

 

[Teddy]

Mine were junk after about 10K in the rear. Replaced with OEM. Fronts still look OK, but will be replacing them with OEM when the time comes.

 

[mgilvan]

Sux to hear that
But I thought by now it’s a common knowledge that drilled rotors will crack . imho the best rotors after oems are slotted rotors

 

[clownmidget]

Yes, these unfortunately were already on the vehicle installed by previous owner. Not sure about brand but they appear to be of above average quality and honestly the wear - aside from obvious cracking! - looks pretty good.

 

[retrofive]

I have powerstops on the front of mine. Will have to keep an eye on them.

 

[OGBeno]

From my understanding, Akebono makes the OEM pads. I purchased aftermarket Akebono pads (100 series fronts) and they are not as good as the OEM pads.

Incorrect.

Aisin manufactures the 04465-60020 FJ80/early FZJ80 pads.

NBK manufactures the 04465-60110 late FZJ80 pads and 04465-60220 UZJ100 pads.

Akebono does not manufacture OEM Land Cruiser brake pads.

 

[packetstormin]

Weird. I thought slotted and drilled would help with warping and heat issues. I put slotted and drilled on my hundy and they have held up well. 100s eat rotors for breakfast too. They are notorious for warping rotors so that is why I chose slotted and drilled. On my 80 I have never warped a rotor.

 

[Toyote]

Grrrreat. Just finished my front axle and put Powerstops on all four corners too. I "always" go OEM, and for whatever god forsaken reason did not this time. "Try something new..." Errrrrgh. Hard to read this thread after all that work. Well, we shall see.

EDIT: my rotors are 360 Performance with Powerstop pads. So I don't have to freak out quite so much right? FWIW, so far, all bedded in, these brakes are just awesome. Just a few hundred miles, so we'll see about the long term. Love having confident braking power again tho.

I have powerstops on the front of mine. Will have to keep an eye on them.

 

[ChiTown]

That's a very general statement. It all depends on the quality of the rotor. If you're going to buy slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors you need to get them from a company that knows the right way to do it and uses the correct alloys to accommodate the holes/slots/dimples.

The thing about cross drilling is it is meant for really large rotors than cannot be cooled by the air flow from center out. The 80 series rotor is not large enough diameter to warrant this modification of the rotor.

If you're running into brake fade look into a good quality fluid like Motul RBF600 and a different compound brake pad more suited to your driving style / use.

 

[Hornd]

The more mass the better the heat sink performs and that is all that brake systems are. They turn kinetic energy into potential energy (heat). Larger surface area (100 Series Pads) and larger contact areas absorb and transfer the most heat.
One of the problem with many OEM pads is that they are designed to be extra soft so you never get noise. Ppl that buy a new cars hate to hear noise. Softer pads make a lot of dust, wear out early, and are easy on rotors.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

These have at least 80% wear left. Yes, those cracks go all the way through. Hard braking was close to scary with the steering wheel trying to shake itself out of your hands.

Rant off, thanks.

NOT ALL ROTORS ARE MADE THE SAME. THAT IS A BLANKET STATEMENT.