Why cross-drilled rotors are stupid on an 80

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Apr 4, 2003
Messages
23,488
Location
Panamá
good to know .. I was always willing to try 'em in order to gain some extra stopping distance ..
 

1973Guppie

Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
9,946
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
ugh, I used slotted and drilled rotors I got from rockauto, I have the wobble during braking, I was hoping it was my tie rod ends, replaced those so we will see, really hope I don't have to dig into that front axle again and replace the rotors......
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
5,507
Location
Langley BC
The slotted DBA rotors are holding up great. After having a cross drilled rotor blow apart on a track car at 100MPH I will never use them on any car again.
 

scottryana

 
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
10,323
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Hmmm I have a set of the cryo Stoptech's that I was going to use on the front. Will be interesting to see how they do. But looks like they won't do well. lol.
 

lumbee1

Native American
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Messages
2,657
Location
Holly Springs, NC
I would not recommend economy and even midgrade cross drilled rotors with a heavy vehicle. They simply cannot handle the stress of stopping a heavy vehicle and tend to crack at the holes from heat cycling. Slotted rotors are better but the slots can serve as stress fracture points just like the holes in cross drilling. Slots do not penetrate very deep into the surface and therefore they are less likely to crack but there is still the potential.

I have had cryo treated slotted rotors on the front of my Nissan Maxima for 8 years. They have never been turned, never warped, the thickness is well within spec, and they are in fantastic shape. I beat the hell out of this car and the engine is toast after 168K miles.

I am going to install NAPA premium blanks front and rear on my Landcruiser. Simple, effective, and heavy. If you are looking for better braking, pads will have a bigger effect on braking performance. From my understanding, Akebono makes the OEM pads. I purchased aftermarket Akebono pads (100 series fronts) and they are not as good as the OEM pads.
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,419
Mine were junk after about 10K in the rear. Replaced with OEM. Fronts still look OK, but will be replacing them with OEM when the time comes.
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
304
Location
Corona , CA
Sux to hear that
But I thought by now it’s a common knowledge that drilled rotors will crack . imho the best rotors after oems are slotted rotors
:cheers:
 

clownmidget

 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Yes, these unfortunately were already on the vehicle installed by previous owner. Not sure about brand but they appear to be of above average quality and honestly the wear - aside from obvious cracking! - looks pretty good.
 

beno

Gihee Arakawa
Moderator
GOLD Star
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2004
Messages
25,671
Location
Woodstock, NY, USA
From my understanding, Akebono makes the OEM pads. I purchased aftermarket Akebono pads (100 series fronts) and they are not as good as the OEM pads.
Incorrect.

Aisin manufactures the 04465-60020 FJ80/early FZJ80 pads.

NBK manufactures the 04465-60110 late FZJ80 pads and 04465-60220 UZJ100 pads.

Akebono does not manufacture OEM Land Cruiser brake pads.


IMG_5896.JPG


IMG_5897.JPG
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
1,476
Location
PHX AZ
Weird. I thought slotted and drilled would help with warping and heat issues. I put slotted and drilled on my hundy and they have held up well. 100s eat rotors for breakfast too. They are notorious for warping rotors so that is why I chose slotted and drilled. On my 80 I have never warped a rotor.
 

Toyote

 
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
362
Location
Portland, OR
Grrrreat. Just finished my front axle and put Powerstops on all four corners too. I "always" go OEM, and for whatever god forsaken reason did not this time. "Try something new..." Errrrrgh. Hard to read this thread after all that work. Well, we shall see.

EDIT: my rotors are 360 Performance with Powerstop pads. So I don't have to freak out quite so much right? FWIW, so far, all bedded in, these brakes are just awesome. Just a few hundred miles, so we'll see about the long term. Love having confident braking power again tho.

:( I have powerstops on the front of mine. Will have to keep an eye on them.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
1,095
Location
Disneyland
That's a very general statement. It all depends on the quality of the rotor. If you're going to buy slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors you need to get them from a company that knows the right way to do it and uses the correct alloys to accommodate the holes/slots/dimples.

The thing about cross drilling is it is meant for really large rotors than cannot be cooled by the air flow from center out. The 80 series rotor is not large enough diameter to warrant this modification of the rotor.

If you're running into brake fade look into a good quality fluid like Motul RBF600 and a different compound brake pad more suited to your driving style / use.
 

Hornd

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
2,568
Location
Toledo, OH
The more mass the better the heat sink performs and that is all that brake systems are. They turn kinetic energy into potential energy (heat). Larger surface area (100 Series Pads) and larger contact areas absorb and transfer the most heat.
One of the problem with many OEM pads is that they are designed to be extra soft so you never get noise. Ppl that buy a new cars hate to hear noise. Softer pads make a lot of dust, wear out early, and are easy on rotors.
 
Top Bottom