Who's replaced the A/C compressor clutch?

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The A/C compressor starting whining/buzzing/vibrating soon after getting doused in a water crossing. Tested belt tension and idler pulley; all good. Hoping it's the clutch. Has anyone here replaced the clutch, and if so did the unit hold up? Autozone has one for $68; versus $414 for the whole compressor.
 
The A/C compressor starting whining/buzzing/vibrating soon after getting doused in a water crossing. Tested belt tension and idler pulley; all good. Hoping it's the clutch. Has anyone here replaced the clutch, and if so did the unit hold up? Autozone has one for $68; versus $414 for the whole compressor.

1) Pull off the belt, and then identify whether the clutch pulley ("stator") is loose on the shaft, or the shaft itself ("nosecone" of the compressor) is loose in the compressor. If it's the former, a new clutch should do it; if not, time for a new compressor.

2) Why would you not go OEM for the clutch?? My guess would be a little over $100 for IH8MUD smart shoppers.

Curtis
 
My clutch just went last week so for now I've taken the belt off - how many banana's are needed to replace the parts?

:banana:
 
I thought I would bring this thread back to life.. I am pretty sure my AC clutch is on its way out. How hard is it to install the clutch? Some observations would be very helpful.

Josh
 
My guess would be that the bearing was failing and the cool splash of water finished it off. Remove the belt and spin the clutch. If it makes the same sound it is the clutch as the compressor doesn't turn unlesss the clutch is energized. The clutch is cake to remove. Take out the center bolt, remove snap ring and voila! Another snap ring holds the magnet in place. It may be possilbe to just replace the bearing if everything else looks okay. I would 'get in the zone' and spend the $68 first.
 
I think that swapping a clutch would be VERY hard whilst the compressor is on the car. If you think you can, then fine, but I believe the clutch is pressed onto the compressor shaft and has a key. I could be wrong.

If you need to either take the compressor off the car or need to swap the compressor, take it to an A/C shop and buck up: depending on the year of your vehicle, It's not legal to open up the lines and vent refrigerant, and you can't test the system without a vacuum and proper gauge to make sure it will hold pressure after reinstallation.

91-93or4 systems came with R-12, which is not only not produced anymore, but is VERY expensive, so it is always reclaimed when draining a system. This takes specialized equipment that an A/C shop has. This is due to the fact that it is now illegal to produce in most countries because if it's status as a very potent
greenhouse gas. it can still be purchased, but only with a special permit. R-134A is a fraction of the cost and can be obtained over the counter.

In 94, the switch was made to R-134a. R-12 and R134a are not compatible and will lead to system failure often resulting in compressor seizure at worst, system leakage at best. R-12 and R134a systems use different seal types and different fill and drain valves to avoid using the wrong stuff. You cannot use R-134a in an R-12 system without fairly extensive conversion - to put in in truck terms, think of mixing Red and Green coolant and never checking it again... Except worse. Conversion involves evacuating the system, flushing (including compressor), changing all seals to a 134a compatible type, changing drier, evacuating again to test for leaks, then filling.

I learned this (for better or worse) working for a compressor remanufacturer in Dallas for 3 1/2 years.
 
That was my next question.... Can the replacement of the clutch mechanism be done with the compressor in-place or would i need to remove it? The FSM is a little un-clear.

She's starting to sing pretty good so I need to get this taken care of ASAP.
 
It can be done on the vehicle with a lot of flexibility. There may be enough give in the lines if you un mount the compresser and turn it upwards. I agree and disagree with the above comments. I maintain a fleet of 40+ vehicles, tractors, semis,etc....if you evacuate the system completely, refill compressor with 134a oil and change the reciever/dryer. Conversion is rather simple. I have done it numerous times with no problems.

My clutch came off easy. Yes there is a key and a tapered shaft. Use PB or wd40 liberally and gently tap with a soft mallet around the outside edge. If your clutch is toast you won't hurt anything anyway..
Behind the clutch there is another snap ring holding the magnet in place. Remove snap ring and repeat above. A new magnet should be supplied with the clutch....HTH
 
Nice. I appreciate the info fellas.
 
I agree and disagree with the above comments. I maintain a fleet of 40+ vehicles, tractors, semis,etc....if you evacuate the system completely, refill compressor with 134a oil and change the reciever/dryer. Conversion is rather simple. I have done it numerous times with no problems.

A DIY will not be able to evacuate the system - this takes equipment none of us regular guys will have in a garage.

For this specific case, A DIY Could go ahead and change the compressor ONLY IF they are running a R-134a system and if they change the drier and then recharge, and should not have any problems. (it is still preferable to evacuate to get the air out of the lines for best cooling efficiency, but I digress... Do it yourself if you must.)

If you are running a system with R-12 (91-93/4) you CANNOT just refill with R-134a.
First of all, the valves are not the same. This is for a reason! There is a loose term in the A/C world called Black Death. The mixture of the two coolants (and thier respective lubrication oils) will form an acidic mixture that WILL compromise seals, and often seizes the compressor. (newer seal technology has probably been advanced since then, but back in those days, manufacturers did not know that they would have issues with R-12 vs R-134a compatibility and seals. I was doing this from 1997 until 2000, and there was still a huge amount of unknowns then and research pouring into the subject by the automotive A/C industry.) There is a charactoristic black acidic gunk / residue that forms in the compressor. The presence of this gunk is how we determined warranty eligibility - if it was there it means that the conversion / evacuation was not done properly. Also, after 12+ years on the orginal seals soaking up the mineral oil used to lubricate an r-12 system, you cannot fully flush it out even with proper equipment, which is why the seals are changed to the R-134a compatible PAG lubricant.

Bottom line for older cruiser owners - throw R-134a in an R-12 system if you want to sell your truck and be a slimeball. If you are an owner who wants to keep the truck, have it done properly.
 
I have a 1993 landcruiser and my ac compressor makes noise even when my ac is off, i think it maybe the clutch or pully, i live in costa rica and for a used clutch and pulky they want 100$ i have found new ac compressors with clutch pully for under 200$ is worth me just buying the whole new thing or should i try to find the clutch pully for this car i have called autozone and pepboys for this piece and niether carry it though i was able to find a part number on autozone but they said its discontinued and help would be great
 
Pull the clutch off and replace the nose bearing.

MT 2027 by santech or...

ID 30mm
OD 52mm
Thick 22mm
 
Last edited:
Any updates on replacing the bearing?
 
I know this is an old thread but I am in the middle of replacing my clutch so I snapped a few pictures for future reference, hope this helps someone.

20160917_162327.webp
 
Crappie pic but you can flip the compressor upside down with out evacuating the freon.
 
This is the slot where the new magnet rests...it only fits one way.

20160917_162503.webp
 

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