Who tows 5k+ with their 80?

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My 80 has about 5" of lift and 315 BFG AT's. It also has a part time conversion.

I have been flat towing my 40 with my 80 for years, and like it sits now for a couple years. It sucks.

I now have access to a nice heavy equipment/car trailer that my 40 fits on perfectly. Trailer is rated 5 Ton GVW. Got to weigh 1200-1500 lbs. My 40 probably weighs around 3800 or so.

So we're looking at 5-6k lbs total behind the 80.

Now, I have a set of 4.56 gears and an install kit to go in the rear end of the 80. But I'm thinking, if I do much towing, I might be better off with 4.88's, even though my unloaded highway mileage is likely to suffer.

Anyone here have any real experience towing these types of loads with an 80 outfitted similarly to mine? Trying to gauge whether the 4.88's are worth it or to just stick with the 4.56's.

Thanks.
:beer:
 
Forgot to mention, the trailer has good trailer brakes, and I would be installing a Prodigy brake controller before I ever thought of pulling that trailer behind my 80.
 
I tow a 3k boat regularly with both trucks, no trailer brakes. Worst case scenario was going down an incredibly steep grade with the boat behind me in my truck (lifted, big tires, etc). Idiot coming up the hill was in my lane. Had to panic stop, and I was amazed at how well it did despite the trailer trying to push me around.

If you have good brakes that will make a world of difference. If I were you I'd rent a trailer and see what you think, it'd be worth the $100 or whatever to test it.
 
I would guess that most here will say that is too much to tow with an 80 regardless of the gear you choose, but I would say 488's for sure.
 
I tow a 3k boat regularly with both trucks, no trailer brakes. Worst case scenario was going down an incredibly steep grade with the boat behind me in my truck (lifted, big tires, etc). Idiot coming up the hill was in my lane. Had to panic stop, and I was amazed at how well it did despite the trailer trying to push me around.

If you have good brakes that will make a world of difference. If I were you I'd rent a trailer and see what you think, it'd be worth the $100 or whatever to test it.

I've towed our 21ft Mastercraft behind the 80 several times in the mountains. It has dual surge braked axles. It towed fine, even with 4.10's and 315's.

Even though it is not a light boat, total weight w/ trailer is probably around 3k lbs, not the best comparison to the FJ40 on a heavy duty trailer.

I've already got access to the trailer, what I really need to borrow is an 80 like mine with 4.56's, and one with 4.88's.
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Bailey, how much does your ski boat/trailer combo weigh? You've pulled it with the 80 right?

Didn't you mention that this might only be a temporary towing solution?

The majority of the trips Bailey will be taking (I think) would be mostly interstate 1-4 hours from home. Most routes are flat or have very gradual elevation change. Once you hit the 2-lane within 20-30 minutes of the destination, the roads get a little steeper and more winding. Almost all the towing will be done within 1000-2000 feet above sea level.

edit: you beat me to the first question... BTW, the trailer does have excellent brakes. I pulled it last Sunday with my '05 Titan and it stops very smoothly, even with median-crossing spinning BMWs coming at you :eek:
 
dont do it unless the road is way flat, trailer has great breaks, and you aint in a hurry. i did a little towing with my 80 at first and it wasn't pleasant

Trailer has good brakes.

A friend once towed his jeep buggy on a heavier trailer to Tellico (through the mountains) behind my 80, but I had 31's on the back, so effectively stock gearing. He said it was not fast nor fun, but the braking and handling were fine.


I've towed a lot of different stuff behind this 80, but nothing quite this heavy.

What I really need to know is if anyone has towed loads similar to this with an 80 on 35's, with 4.56's or 4.88's.
 
What elevation will be operating this 80 for towing purposes? 4.88s seem to be the popular choice in the higher elevation and some even go with 5.29s with 315s. If you're at sea level, you'll want to regear to 4.56s at a minimum just so the trans and engine are at a happy place with 315s.
 
Meh, if the trailer has good breaks I wouldn't flinch at doing 6,000 lbs. However you say the trailer is a 5ton GVW it weighs more than 1,500 lbs. More like 2,500.

So I am guessing that your total weight is closer to 7k. Best thing to do is load it up behind your rig and find some weight scales. Then do a 80 only run over the scale to see how much weight you are going to want to put on the back of the cruiser, about 300-400lbs is best to keep trailer sway down.

Total weight I would want to see around six, any more than that and it is too risky.

For a bit more safety you can get a weight distributing hitch too. This will really control trailer sway and driving characteristics.

Do not get a trailer with surge breakes if you like to be really safe.

As far as gears, I have always found lower to be better. I would go 4.88's minimum.
 
5k lbs

Before I had my duramax chevy, I would tow my 5k lb boat on a regular basis with my fzj80 315's and 4.88 ratio. I have surge brakes on the trailer and it did fine. I even crossed the mountains a couple times a year and it was tolerable, but not ideal. As for gearing I really doubt you'll have any better fuel economy with 4.56 vs. 4.88. I also had towed a 4runner on a trailer short distance a couple times, but had no trailer brakes, and it was kinda sketchy.




My 80 has about 5" of lift and 315 BFG AT's. It also has a part time conversion.

I have been flat towing my 40 with my 80 for years, and like it sits now for a couple years. It sucks.

I now have access to a nice heavy equipment/car trailer that my 40 fits on perfectly. Trailer is rated 5 Ton GVW. Got to weigh 1200-1500 lbs. My 40 probably weighs around 3800 or so.

So we're looking at 5-6k lbs total behind the 80.

Now, I have a set of 4.56 gears and an install kit to go in the rear end of the 80. But I'm thinking, if I do much towing, I might be better off with 4.88's, even though my unloaded highway mileage is likely to suffer.

Anyone here have any real experience towing these types of loads with an 80 outfitted similarly to mine? Trying to gauge whether the 4.88's are worth it or to just stick with the 4.56's.

Thanks.
:beer:
 
What elevation will be operating this 80 for towing purposes? 4.88s seem to be the popular choice in the higher elevation and some even go with 5.29s with 315s. If you're at sea level, you'll want to regear to 4.56s at a minimum just so the trans and engine are at a happy place with 315s.

I live in Atlanta (~700ft). I tow up to the mountains, 2-3k ft. So elevation in terms of reduced engine performance is not a big deal.

I've lived with 315's and stock gears for several years now. Not great, not the end of the world, I just drive slow everywhere. If I didn't need to tow, I would probably continue living with them until I get my hand-me-down 100 series. (Hopefully this year sometime).

Before I had my duramax chevy, I would tow my 5k lb boat on a regular basis with my fzj80 315's and 4.88 ratio. I have surge brakes on the trailer and it did fine. I even crossed the mountains a couple times a year and it was tolerable, but not ideal. As for gearing I really doubt you'll have any better fuel economy with 4.56 vs. 4.88. I also had towed a 4runner on a trailer short distance a couple times, but had no trailer brakes, and it was kinda sketchy.
Great, thanks. That is the kind of input I am looking for. Good to know re the 4.56 vs the 4.88. I guess if I am used to driving slow anyway, my highway mileage shouldn't suffer much with the 4.88's, and around town should improve.

Anyone else with applicable experienece?
 
My experience with towing with the 80 has topped at about 3000 lbs. No problem on flat ground. This is with 33"s and regular diff gears (4.10 IIRC). It doesn't exactly feel like a muscle car with some weight back there admittedly, but goes OK.

In the moutains, however, especially at high altitudes it's a different story. It's struggling going up hill. Had to come down to 2nd a few times. Then it's fine but I'm going at 30 mph if it's steep. Downhill it's stopping but you can tell it's not like the usual. I guess altogether not bad, but it ain't no diesel superduty...
 
Well, the ultimate plan is to get the handmedown 100, part time it, and use that for DD and tow rig duty while I drop a 6BT into the 80 for the ultimate camping/hunting/towing rig.

BUT... that is a pipe dream for someone who is still (unfortunately) a student.
So, I need to figure out the best way to get the 80 usable with this trailer I have access too.
 
Well, the ultimate plan is to get the handmedown 100, part time it, and use that for DD and tow rig duty while I drop a 6BT into the 80 for the ultimate camping/hunting/towing rig.

BUT... that is a pipe dream for someone who is still (unfortunately) a student.
So, I need to figure out the best way to get the 80 usable with this trailer I have access too.


a 100 will undoubtedly be like night and day.

Basically, if you have good trailer brakes, the 80 will get you there, you may just have to go very slow uphill. Usable, feasible, just not great (or very safe/comfy if you have 18-wheelers in a hurry stacked behind you). I'm thinking that 4.56 won't make enough difference with 35"s, 5K load, and mountains.
 
Bailey,

If it helps at all, I am going to go with 4.88s on the LX with 315s and I don't plan on towing much if anything here in Atlanta. I don't expect a big drop in mpg based on others that have done the same. 12mpg is 12 mpg and it seems that it is my trucks magic number.

Smitty
 
I pulled a 8x20 trailer over 11K combined weight per the scales on 33's with stock 4.10 gears, airbags in the back, even coming back empty it was difficult to get over 55 because of the air resistance , had good electric brakes, several round trips from GA to FL, If I had to do it regularly I would look at a 2500 diesel truck. the 80 is not a tow platform,
 
My trailer is 1600lbs, I've towed cars from 2600lbs - 4000lbs on it with no issues.

Tekonsha brake controller and airlift bags in the rear filled to 30-35psi when towing. No real issues to speak of aside from I wish I had a turbo installed!
 
I've got a 95 with 315's, 4.88's and a 4 in Slee lift. I pull a travel trailer at about 4500 Lbs. and the Cruiser loaded with the :princess:, 2 kids, dog, ice chest, tools etc.

I have a weight distributing hitch and consider it a must have item along with the electric brake controller. (Nice to keep control by engaging the trailer brakes when needed to avoid being pushed down hills.)

If you haven't installed the 4.56's yet I'd be sure to put in the 4.88's It only raises the RPM's slightly over stock. (As I recall my GPS puts my actual speed at 65 MPH when my speedo reads 70 so we're only looking at a couple hundred RPM difference over stock gears.) You are going to need all the extra gearing you can get to pull up any grades.

For my trailer at freeway speeds, on level ground, I feel that wind resistance is more of an issue than weight. The weight is only a real issue when going up an on ramp or any grades at higher altitudes.

As long as you have patience you can tow reliably and safely with your rig. I too have had to drop to 2nd gear when towing on some long steep grades, but your wind drag should be substantially less and you are operating at less than 4K feet in elevation so you might not need to reach as far down into your transmission as me.

I got a little over 10 MPG on average when towing this summer (not corrected for gearing so probably 9.5 actual)

I also run synthetic transmission fluid. I learned about it's benefits with another vehicle I had that was too small to tow that same trailer. After experiencing quick overheating of new fluid running through a huge aftermarket cooler I got trans slip and the fluid overheated after the first time much more quickly. I switched fluids and saw the temps stayed down and never got slip again.

Just my 2Cents
 

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