Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ)

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What's going on?
I like where this is going...

Since you love rebuilding FF's, have you looked into finding a inner axle seal that could be described as a hd seal, like marlins for the front?
I have only used the oems, but even with good diff breather,some fluid passes by.

I haven't. I don't see how much more heavy a seal could fit in there, since it's not a big space between the axle shaft and the inside diameter of the spindle. I expect that most seal problems there are caused by a rough surface on the axle shaft, so if I was really concerned with it I would put a speedy sleeve on it and see how that worked.

Need more updates & pics;)

Yes need more updates

I agree. I do need more updates and pics.

Unfortunately, I haven't worked on it a single minute for the past few months. Something, something.... work too hard......

Likely starting in January I should have some time to work on cruisers again.

I did just spend a week with Dad's HJ-61, and it sure made me want to get the 1HZ into the 60 so I can have mine instead. Then I won't feel bad getting it dirty. ;)

Dan
 
Well, I'm in NM this week working on this truck.....

First thing to be done was to get the HJ-61 half cut stripped the rest of the way and out of the shop. That only took a couple hours. Then, with the half cut outside, it was time to rearrange some stuff....
rearrange 1.webp
rearrange 2.webp


That was last night. Then, it was time this morning to use that front axle with springs on it to help get the body and frame into the shop.
body 1.webp
body 2.webp
body 3.webp


We attached the front axle (very loosely--I didn't even put the shackles on all the way, and I dragged it down to the shop using Dad's HJ-61. Once it was close, we put a strap under the rear frame, and lifted up with the snow plow on Dad's Power Wagon while he gave it a little nudge to get it into the shop. Very easy, really.
 
With that done, we couldn't resist and temporarily bolted the right front fender on to check out the snorkel fitment. I do need to drill 3 holes for the bracket to hold the snorkel to the A-Pillar, so it's not entirely frivolous.
body 4.webp


Now I'm heading into town to drop Dad off at the airport (he's taking off just for the night), and I'm going to get some supplies. Mostly I intend to bring back some ether to try and start that 1HZ. I don't know if the IP is bad on the 1HZ, so with the ether I'm hoping to get the IP to move some fuel and start running. If not, then I'll get to work taking an IP off and getting it rebuilt.

I'm also going to pick up some furniture dollies to set the body on so that it's real low, and mobile enough so we can get to work with the bodywork (mostly sanding and getting it ready to paint). I also need to clean it out pretty badly. Turns out some pack rats found it over the past month or so, and I removed a couple gallons of sticks and stuff before we moved it. Now I need to get it real clean so that it's nice to work on.

Dan
 
Sometime in the past month or two a pack rat moved into the truck while it was outside. Nasty, awful little creatures. Tear up insulation, chew wires, poop everywhere and put sticks (and cactus) all over the place. First job of the day was to clean out the inside and strip it down.

This was after an hour or two of cleaning, and I was still getting sticks and things out...
pack rat.webp


But here it is stripped down....
stripped 1.webp


stripped 2.webp


It'll get a good scrubbing, but that at least gets the pack rat poop out of there, and lets me start prepping the interior.

On the front right frame rail I found something I have not seen before: a bad weld from Toyota! This is where the inner channel and outer channel meet on the frame. You can see that whoever welded it allowed it to undercut severely--enough to punch holes through the metal.
frame weld 1.webp


Here it is close up...
frame weld 2.webp


Naturally, I ground it down, and I will weld it properly tomorrow.
 
Once I had the truck pretty well stripped on the inside, I took some simple green and went to town on all the bits I took out, especially the ones the pack rats had nested in.
cleaned stuff.webp


With that done, I decided that I needed to fire up the plasma cutter.

Before:
motor mounts 1.webp


After cutting them out:
motor mounts 2.webp


If you don't know what you're looking at, I cut the F motor mounts off. No point leaving those in there a single minute longer than they need to be. If I get real motivated tomorrow, I'll set the 1HZ in there and tack up the motor mounts from Georg. Maybe.

Once I ground the cuts down, I bolted my spare PS gearbox onto the frame, to make sure it was the right one...
motor mounts 3.webp


It is. Now I'll probably leave it there for mockup purposes, and then send it to West Texas Offroad to get it rebuilt.

I'll probably label some things (like the ones that are for silly smog junk) on the wiring harness, and maybe pull it out of the truck. Maybe.

I'm also going to pull as much off as I can like the brake booster and master, clutch master, etc.... I won't need those for a while and since the truck will get painted anyway, might as well get them out of the way now.

Dan
 
Well, I mostly got lazy today. ;)

About all we did on my 60 was try to start the 1HZ on ether. It ticked over, and that's decent news. It also made a pretty loud racket making me think something might be amiss in the bottom end.

Here's a quick video of it ticking over on ether.


Anyone hear anything there? I've got two sets of BEB's for 1HZs sitting around, but I'm not sure that loud of a knock could just be BEBs. The engine is an unknown. I got it REAL cheap from a mine that removed 4 1HZs to swap in Cummins B3.3s to test them out. Frankly, what I paid for the engine means I can afford to rebuild it if I have to and still be way ahead on buying one. But I would prefer not to if I don't have to, obviously.

Next time I am at the shop (sometime in February, I won't know my schedule for a couple more days) I will try it on ether again, and after setting the engine in the bay to tack the motor mounts in, I'll put the engine on the stand and take a look at the bottom end to see what I can see.

EDIT--an interesting note: this 1HZ takes a LOT of ether to start, and it likes it sprayed in the intake before cranking. It seriously takes twice as much ether to get it to do that as my old dump truck's NH-180 takes to get going.

Dan
 
Didn't sound bad to me considering there wouldn't be any oil pressure running that short of time and ether is a tad more explosive than diesel. Get her up to idle on diesel and she might smooth out a bunch.
 
Didn't sound bad to me considering there wouldn't be any oil pressure running that short of time and ether is a tad more explosive than diesel. Get her up to idle on diesel and she might smooth out a bunch.

OK. I won't write it off then just yet.

I could definitely buy that. Before that it cranked a lot and pushed some oil through the engine, but I'm sure it wasn't that much. I'll work on getting it to clatter on diesel.

Dan
 
Could be because it was running on ether and if you didnt have the water jacket full of coolant ,you wouldnt have the insulation affect.
Didnt sound too bad to me.
 
Could be because it was running on ether and if you didnt have the water jacket full of coolant ,you wouldnt have the insulation affect.
Didnt sound too bad to me.

Good.

I'll work on getting it to clatter on diesel and see how it sounds then.

Will replace the BEBs no matter what, just because it's a good idea.

Dan
 
View attachment 885433

Talk about a "First World Cruiserhead Problem:" I don't have a chassis/satin power coat that matches the paint. So the powder coated backing plates don't match the axle housings and hub. I know, it's a rough life. ;)
View attachment 885434

You Poor thing.....

Where and the hell do you get all these parts!??!!!! Definitely Subscribed.
 
What transmission are you mating the 1HZ to?
Is there a bell housing that will link a 1HZ to an H55?

I just finished up my 12HT swap, and my dad drives it so much I can't get my own truck back.

He wants a diesel. Now that these 1HZ's are importable, I'm looking to drop one in his 60.

What are the differences between the engines? (I know the 1HZ needs a fine spline input shaft. But what else?)
 
What transmission are you mating the 1HZ to?
Is there a bell housing that will link a 1HZ to an H55?

I just finished up my 12HT swap, and my dad drives it so much I can't get my own truck back.

He wants a diesel. Now that these 1HZ's are importable, I'm looking to drop one in his 60.

What are the differences between the engines? (I know the 1HZ needs a fine spline input shaft. But what else?)
Hey bud, somehow you must have known your dad was gonna snatch that beauty, even if he has his own gasser. It's time for your to hide those keys...sorry for hijacking this wonderful thread.
 
Hey bud, somehow you must have known your dad was gonna snatch that beauty, even if he has his own gasser. It's time for your to hide those keys...sorry for hijacking this wonderful thread.

Be a good son. Build your Dad a diesel cruiser or two. ;)

The HZJ-75 had the H55f mated to the 1HZ. So it's really not tough to mate them together. Heck, I think Georg has some 1HZ flavor H55fs for sale right now. Then you just need the HZJ-75 bellhousing and associated bits and bobs your uncle!

Dan
 
Be a good son. Build your Dad a diesel cruiser or two. ;)

The HZJ-75 had the H55f mated to the 1HZ. So it's really not tough to mate them together. Heck, I think Georg has some 1HZ flavor H55fs for sale right now. Then you just need the HZJ-75 bellhousing and associated bits and bobs your uncle!

Dan
Thanks Dan. You always have the info I need. How tough do you think it would be to track down a 75 series bellhousing? (Thats the last question I promise)
 
Thanks Dan. You always have the info I need. How tough do you think it would be to track down a 75 series bellhousing? (Thats the last question I promise)

I've tracked down two without much problem (both from AUS). A couple years ago you could order them directly from Toyota, not sure if you still can though. The H55f can be switched from one flavor to another by swapping the input shaft (also available new, I still need to tear into one of mine to do this).

Dan
 
Are you pretty much rebuilding the transmission when you swap the input shaft? It would be pretty hard to justify not replacing the bearings while you're there.

That got me thinking, where does one find an h55f rebuild kit?
 
Are you pretty much rebuilding the transmission when you swap the input shaft? It would be pretty hard to justify not replacing the bearings while you're there.

That got me thinking, where does one find an h55f rebuild kit?

Yes and no. I find you have to pull the bearings out of the countershaft in order to drop the countershaft down a little to pull the input shaft out. If you don't the syncro teeth on the input shaft won't clear the countershaft. I did this last summer on a brand new H55f I bought from Beno. It was an F motor spline unit and I needed a B spline which is not available new either as a single part or assembled in a new tranny. I also recently assisted (read: beer in hand looking over the shoulder of the men on the tools...) pulling the input shaft for some world travelers from France who blew a tranny in our neck of the woods (there is a thread in the 70 section I think).

My point is that on the new tranny I only replaced the paper gaskets but on the used tranny they did a full rebuild. You can source the kit in a few places. I bought one from Georg at Valley Hybrids and one from Curt at CruiserOutfitters. The kits run in the $350-$400 range and are quite good.

Also, as a side note, if you are changing inputs you need the correct bell housing/clutch arm/ throwout bearing/ clutch slave and also the bearing retainer off of the front of the tranny (the figure 8 looking thing that the input shaft pokes through - they are different lengths for different shafts).

Edit: and there can be starter issues as they don't all mount the same way and are oriented differently (i.e. my BJ42 starter and the BJ7X bell housing are not boltup parts - though I made them work)

Kevin
 
Both the 1HZ bellhousing and input shaft are available through any Toyota dealer in the US.

Reasonably priced, all things considered.

I'd love to be up at Dan's dad's shop wrenching. One of the funnest places to wrench because of all the cool stuff in the shop.

:)
 
Both the 1HZ bellhousing and input shaft are available through any Toyota dealer in the US.

Reasonably priced, all things considered.

I'd love to be up at Dan's dad's shop wrenching. One of the funnest places to wrench because of all the cool stuff in the shop.

:)

I wish you were in the shop too. It's like a playground! I don't understand why it's so cathartic to bust my knuckles and stuff working on trucks.... and yet.....

The 1HZ that has the input that to replace is a new. But it was new and had an unknown issue with the 2nd gear synchro. Talking with some very experienced cruiser mechanics, it may have been just an improper installation of the T-case note on the tranny's output shaft--but I'll see when I open it up. I'm planning on replacing anything that's worn when I do it.

the other one came from Australia with the 1HZ input shaft, so I'll jut pull the top plate off and inspect it. This is the one that is most likely to go into the 60.

Dan
 

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