Who has deleted EGR on 1FZFE?

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I left mine on the engine but disabled it by capping the vacuum lines and shorted the temp sensor to prevent the CEL. Probably not as good as physically removing the whole system but only took 10 minutes.
 
OBD1 '94, but I removed the egr, vsv's, and plugged the holes in the intake when i did the head gasket. Shorted the harness wires together and no codes. Feels like there is so much more room now.
 
I have a 94. Deleted the pair system, placed o2s in manifold. Deleted the egr and shorted the temp sensor. I've also removed all the vsv under the upper intake. Removed and all the vacuum lines except for one for the fuel pressure valve on the rail. Charcoal canister vents to atmosphere and thru another filter. No codes idles real good drives fine. No cats either but will eventually put one back in when I install the magna flow y pipe
 
We just pulled the entire EGR system off Mitch's LX while doing the fuel injectors (sent out for cleaning). Already had resistor installed due to P0401 code and obvious issues somewhere in the system. Non-testing state and we had already had problems with cooked wires so figured get rid of the problem. Removed all the items under the intake while off and fab'd plates for the head and intake. Plugged unused vac ports and replaced all other vac lines still needed for the other systems. 130K rig from the south so no difficulty removing the associated bolts/nuts but the ones on the back of the head. It did take a bit of ingenuity in combining two end wrenches to reach up with enough leverage to break the bolts free from below. For us, removing the starter was the key to gaining good access and only takes a couple of minutes.

Cannot say any noticeable change in performance outside of smoother idle which I attribute to the freshly cleaned and matched injectors and cleaning the throttle body. Had previously heat wrapped the harness but found two more wires that had melted casings this go around. Exactly why we chose to remove the pipe when we had access during this repair.
 
I have been running disabled for approx. 500 miles over all conditions, speed, etc. I have just plugged the relevant vacuum lines and installed this and all has been good with no codes.
 
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To disable the EGR just pull the vacuum modulator out and connect the 2 vacuum lines together. Done.

4.7k ohm resistor in the EGR temp plug to turn the light off.

I have about 20k miles with my egr system off. Serves no purpose but stupid smog.
 
To disable the EGR just pull the vacuum modulator out and connect the 2 vacuum lines together. Done.

4.7k ohm resistor in the EGR temp plug to turn the light off.

I have about 20k miles with my egr system off. Serves no purpose but stupid smog.


Do you have a pic of this??
 
Just to be clear on why it makes cylinder #6 fail at the HG, they don't use a pipe to run EGR gases from the exhaust side back to the intake side, they use a passage in the cylinder head itself.

So basically it structurally weakens the cylinder head, and then heats it up. Something to note is that aluminum DOES NOT maintain its structural characteristics very well as temperatures rise. In cast iron it wouldn't be an issue for example.
(btw I'm the crazy guy who machined a smaller-than-OEM passage in a foreign head to ensure I still pass CA smog)



Also: In theory EGR gives better MPG. Since you effectively make it a smaller displacement engine (using inert gas) while cruising at low throttle. On the other hand, the inert gas would also theoretically interfere with rapid combustion and cause it to not be completely burned until the piston is farther down and it's lost its opportunity to get maximum work done.
-slower combustion (and temperatures during the combustion) does drastically reduce NOx which typically formulates at about 1400F.

There are some cases where people get 1-2 MPG less when they disable their EGRs, and some who get better, although it's hard to say if that's because the EGR was malfunctioning or not. I kinda wanted to test that with my functioning one, but I'm too lazy.
 
Deleted PAIR+EGR+VSV+Canister

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yep ditto,my engine bay wiring harness was scorched.
pulled upper and lower plenums,did PHH,neighbor,EGR tube,block off plate at head,injectors referbed,runs and idles much better.
just an FYI for those that don't removed the egr tube,a 16MM bolt with a shoulder on it fits in the tube and seals it off.
get one with a long enough shoulder to fit into the compression ring on the tube,cut threads off then tap it into the tube.
the compression ring seals off on the bolt shoulder.
when i have to pull the head for the HG i will completely block off that passage with plugs on both sides.

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you can see the block off plate i made out of some steel i had

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this is the temp plug i used on the EGR pipe until i could remove it(16MM)
 
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That’s the way to do it! That’s what I did. Do it right and pull the EGR pipe from the head. Then block off both the intake port and the head port. Easiest access on the head is through the front DS wheel well like doing the PHH.

Also, support a vendor and get yourself a proper temp port plug. They work great!

1995-1997 FZJ80 EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug Kit
 
Since this thread seems to be the most on track with some of the best info on actually deleting without the purists ruining it with their pro EGR banter, I have decided to finally remove all that from my engine as well. But I am thinking of doing a test run before and after with a Flir thermal camera. What conditions should I introduce? Im not looking to spend all day, but I'm thinking of scanning the following before and after the delete.

-idle till warm on dash
-4 mile around town, slowish stop and go lots of lights.
-8 mile freeway run

I can make this into a video as well also I plan on scanning my wheel bearings, diffs/ tcase and trans since I just changed the oils and I monitor those temps pretty religiously. (albeit with a quicker temp gun)
 
@Woofythewolf kinda. I won't be able to mount my $5,000 camera (Flir E8) to the bay to get it on the road, but I will attempt to at least see residual EGR temps. I will also try to see if an elevated idle speed kicks it on.
 
Since this thread seems to be the most on track with some of the best info on actually deleting without the purists ruining it with their pro EGR banter, I have decided to finally remove all that from my engine as well. But I am thinking of doing a test run before and after with a Flir thermal camera. What conditions should I introduce? Im not looking to spend all day, but I'm thinking of scanning the following before and after the delete.

-idle till warm on dash
-4 mile around town, slowish stop and go lots of lights.
-8 mile freeway run

I can make this into a video as well also I plan on scanning my wheel bearings, diffs/ tcase and trans since I just changed the oils and I monitor those temps pretty religiously. (albeit with a quicker temp gun)
This would be interesting to see!
 
I removed the appropriate vac hose to disable the EGR about 10 years ago, with no issues.

However, I recently removed the upper part of the EGR and fitted a blanking plate.

I modified an old VW sump plug and fitted that to block the pipe. No issues, about 1,000 miles with this set up.

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Alright everyone, went out and did the EGR connected video. Did not see any huge rise in temps, but maybe you will all see something. My freeway run was 2,200 rpm 75ish mph and sustained for 6 miles. EGR tube off the headers was like 250*. I was able to pull off and record temps without seeing any real increase. Tomorrow I will start pulling off all the EGR crap. Even though it doesn't seem to be working, I would rather have less vacuum lines and more space in the engine bay. I will also test the pipes ability do dissipate heat as well with a torch and record the time it takes to cool from the 650ish temps of the manifold to the 250 temp i recorded just for fun.
 

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