White LC200 OEM+ Build Documentation (2 Viewers)

[amitbh234]

Oil change to 5W-30, and planning brake system upgrade.

Recently replaced the engine oil and filter and switched to 5W-30 valvoline full synthetic restore and protect. The engine doesn’t seem to have a lot of varnish or buildup, looked pretty darn new inside when we did the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals but running this oil for the next 2-3k miles since a little bit of cleaning can’t hurt add saw good reviews online. Planning to do an oil analysis to see if I should stay with the 5W-30 weight.

Really like how the truck’s driving but want to upgrade the brake system a little to improve pedal feel and get a stronger bite. Next job will include brake upgrade, greasing the driveshaft.

Currently sourcing the parts but chose to go with the following:

Hawk LTS Brake pads front and rear. Was considering TRD pads but those are out of stock everywhere and then Stoptech 309s but going with the Hawks based on all the glowing review from much more experienced folks on this thread. Also not sure if others have noticed but the Toyota OEM pads didn’t come with any shims. When I went down to look I don’t see any shims behind the backing plates of my pads. Will make sure I have the shims and replace the hardware in this next brake upgrade.

Going with Stop-tech stainless steel lines. Was gonna go with the SDHQ lines but got a deal on a stop techs and they have good reviews on the forum.

 

[ryanCA]

curious how the brake turns out for you. many do the 16+ brakes on their old ride

your name reminds me of amitabh bachan. we grew up wacthing him

 

[amitbh234]

I am going the easier and less expensive route first before spending more money on the brake system. Plus the 16+ doesn’t seem to be just a direct replacement, I was also thinking of the brake bias changing and how that would affect the system.

For now, I’m going off of the good experience of other muddies in this forum like @Boston Mangler @Oregon LC and @KLF on the Hawk LTS pads on the countless threads I read in this topic. I’m going with the OEM rotors because they have less than 3k miles in them.

I actually decided to switch it up and go with slee brake lines instead of stoptechs. I’ve sort of lost faith in Stoptech after receiving some counterfeit and damaged pads. The slees were slightly more expensive but they seem so be well regarded in the forum and also slightly longer than stock so future proofing for the day I put on a mild lift - leaning towards the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo right now and waiting for a sale.

Detailed the car this past weekend after some off road adventuring up the Oregon coast and some OHV trails. The rig is mechanically and cosmetically dialed in. I’ll probably wait to eat through the tires that are there before doing a mild lift and switching out tires and wheels.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I am going the easier and less expensive route first before spending more money on the brake system. Plus the 16+ doesn’t seem to be just a direct replacement, I was also thinking of the brake bias changing and how that would affect the system.

For now, I’m going off of the good experience of other muddies in this forum like @Boston Mangler @Oregon LC and @KLF on the Hawk LTS pads on the countless threads I read in this topic. I’m going with the OEM rotors because they have less than 3k miles in them.

I actually decided to switch it up and go with slee brake lines instead of stoptechs. I’ve sort of lost faith in Stoptech after receiving some counterfeit and damaged pads. The slees were slightly more expensive but they seem so be well regarded in the forum and also slightly longer than stock so future proofing for the day I put on a mild lift - leaning towards the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo right now and waiting for a sale.

Detailed the car this past weekend after some off road adventuring up the Oregon coast and some OHV trails. The rig is mechanically and cosmetically dialed in. I’ll probably wait to eat through the tires that are there before doing a mild lift and switching out tires and wheels.

View attachment 3858821

Looking sharp! Love it!

#white200smatter

 

[amitbh234]

The installation of the sleek stainless steel brake lines and Hawk LTS brake pads complete. Lubed the drivetrain as well.

Brakes feel much firmer and bites a lot earlier. I’d say ~30% firmer. So far haven’t noticed any noise.

Finally took care of my only pet peeve with the car.

p.s the wife and I are expecting our first child

 

[ryanCA]

The installation of the sleek stainless steel brake lines and Hawk LTS brake pads complete. Lubed the drivetrain as well.

Brakes feel much firmer and bites a lot earlier. I’d say ~30% firmer. So far haven’t noticed any noise.

Finally took care of my only pet peeve with the car.

p.s the wife and I are expecting our first child

View attachment 3869819

congrats on the new baby

250 =

 

[amitbh234]

congrats on the new baby

250 =

Haha I searched and searched for a 200 baby RC car. Couldn’t find one.

Not a big fan of the new Landcruiser either. The new GX550 though I really like.

 

[ryanCA]

Haha I searched and searched for a 200 baby RC car. Couldn’t find one.

Not a big fan of the new Landcruiser either. The new GX550 though I really like.

Give your kid the 200 you have and buy a 16+ for you.

No need for a RC car.. for a real baby.. and don't sully their mind with a 250.. you have to teach them young


My kid almost got in a fist fight with a kid who said their GX460 is a LC in another country. My kid told them its a Prado and put them in their place.

My motto as a desi.. if a real LC is good for the Taliban and UN - good enough for me

 

[amitbh234]

Car is driving oh so smooth. The hawk brake pads do squeal a little bit and produce more dust up front then the OEM pads but the bite is so much better that I’m ok with the trade off.

Ordered sway OEM bar end links and sway bar bushings to get them replaced in two weeks.

Car is still driving near perfect. Was keeping an eye out on the sway bar end link bushings and noticed there are very small tears and I heard very mild clattering when going over small bumps in medium speed.

I hear that un-tightening the kdss valves are required for the job but not sure.

 

[amitbh234]

Just got my 6112/5160 bolstering shocks without the rear springs. Was in the fence in the types

curious how the brake turns out for you. many do the 16+ brakes on their old ride

your name reminds me of amitabh bachan. we grew up wacthing him

the brakes improved the pedal feel quite a bit. I have a slight squeal at slow speed braking that I can live with as a trade off. Now I don’t have to keep the brakes jammed hard to keep the rig stationary. Initial bite is improved greatly.

@ryanCA i was meaning to ask you how th compliance of your rear has been with the Bilstein standard springs and if you have the part number for the spring seperately? I hear people complaining about how much it sags when loaded but I rarely load up the car so heavy (unless we are rolling deep as a brown family for small road trips which is not frequent . I sourced the 6112/5160 kit without the springs and am contemplating between standard Bilstein springs or the OME 2721 in the back and thought I’d ask and @Boston Mangler for your input since you both went for the Bilstein shocks for your 200s.

Taking inspiration from @Boston Mangler and will probably do the front control arms and sway bar links and rear sway bar bushings at the same time. Looked at my rear control arm bushing (as much as I could given access) and can’t seem to see any glaring issues and want to control costs a little. I’m approaching 180k miles.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Just got my 6112/5160 bolstering shocks without the rear springs. Was in the fence in the types

the brakes improved the pedal feel quite a bit. I have a slight squeal at slow speed braking that I can live with as a trade off. Now I don’t have to keep the brakes jammed hard to keep the rig stationary. Initial bite is improved greatly.

@ryanCA i was meaning to ask you how th compliance of your rear has been with the Bilstein standard springs and if you have the part number for the spring seperately? I hear people complaining about how much it sags when loaded but I rarely load up the car so heavy (unless we are rolling deep as a brown family for small road trips which is not frequent . I sourced the 6112/5160 kit without the springs and am contemplating between standard Bilstein springs or the OME 2721 in the back and thought I’d ask and @Boston Mangler for your input since you both went for the Bilstein shocks for your 200s.

Taking inspiration from @Boston Mangler and will probably do the front control arms and sway bar links and rear sway bar bushings at the same time. Looked at my rear control arm bushing (as much as I could given access) and can’t seem to see any glaring issues and want to control costs a little. I’m approaching 180k miles.

Funny timing...

Now that i got my drawers, fridge, and some tools in, i went from perfect rake to almost level with the regular duty Bilstein springs

I have a set of OME in my garage that i got prior, just for this reason, and was going to make the same post as you asking the difference.

 

[amitbh234]

Funny timing...

Now that i got my drawers, fridge, and some tools in, i went from perfect rake to almost level with the regular duty Bilstein springs

I have a set of OME in my garage that i got prior, just for this reason, and was going to make the same post as you asking the difference.

Funny timing indeed.

I pulled the trigger on the Bilstein springs for the rear actually. Our build philosophies are pretty similar. Haha. I’d have offered to take the bilstein rears from you if you had made the decision to move to the omes. Since I’m not building an overlanding rig with drawers and fridges out back I’m not expecting to have heavy loads out back.

What tires are you running? 270/70/R18? May I ask why you chose to go the narrow tire route? I’m contemplating the same if I can fit a larger diameter tire with no rubbing. You getting rubbing by the kdss with your setup?

Decided not to do the control arms at this time though. Visual inspection shows good bushing health. i couldn’t gulp the added cost when I added parts and labor. My shop quoted additional 5 hours for the front control arms alone. No thanks!

 

[Boston Mangler]

Decided not to do the control arms at this time though. Visual inspection shows good bushing health. i couldn’t gulp the added cost when I added parts and labor. My shop quoted additional 5 hours for the front control arms alone. No thanks!

Regardless what they LOOK like, I can assure you those control are bushings are toast at 175k if they’re original

Yes the control arms are time consuming, but if you’re already taking them half off to do the Bilsteins, it literally doesn’t make sense NOT to do them.

My .02

 

[amitbh234]

Regardless what they LOOK like, I can assure you those control are bushings are toast at 175k if they’re original

Yes the control arms are time consuming, but if you’re already taking them half off to do the Bilsteins, it literally doesn’t make sense NOT to do them.

My .02

Thanks @Boston Mangler I do put a lot of weight in your 0.2c given your experience.

Were you able to get everything in alignment with new OE front upper and lower control arms? Trying to gauge if the Firestone guys will be able to get me in alignment with a mild 2in lift.

It’ on a cost an additional $1800 to replace the front with parts and labor but I’m contemplating potentially getting all OE arms or an aftermarket upper to help with alignment. I’m only planning to go to the 4th circle (~2.2inch lift up front). Looking at the Ironman 4x4 uppers since they use OE ball joints and rubber bushings but they seem to have mixed reviewed due to an early recall last year.