Yes, that method works w/ the proper BFH.
Which tools to remove cone washers??
- Thread starter Kernal
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Brass hammers are great. If you regrease every year their easy to remove. The ones I hate are the bearings that have not been repacked in years and the cone washers look like their part of the hub. Then its hammer,chisel and the kitchen sink. MIke
I do a combination of things. Take the nuts so they are flush with the end of the bolt and put a brass drift at the end. Use the brass drift on the bug and plate around the bolt.
I do not hit the side of the bolt.
When I say use a brass drift, that means there is a BFH at the other end
I do not hit the side of the bolt.
When I say use a brass drift, that means there is a BFH at the other end
That's how I have always removed them. I got it from the FSM for my pickup which I have had for awhile. The same diagram is in all three FSM's that I have, 88 4Runner, 90 Pickup & 91 LC.
I haven't pulled the flanges on my 80, but I tore down a FF that I bought for the chunk and to eventually swap for my SF rear. I have also had the front hubs on my pickup apart numerous times and this is how they come off. My brass drift actually has a divot in it now because I have used it so much for this, so it has become the official cone washer drift. Fits perfect on the stud and doesn't slip.
Sometimes it takes a little more persuasion than others, but they have all eventually come off. It is also great stress relief, I use a 2lb sledge with the drift.
Tucker
I haven't pulled the flanges on my 80, but I tore down a FF that I bought for the chunk and to eventually swap for my SF rear. I have also had the front hubs on my pickup apart numerous times and this is how they come off. My brass drift actually has a divot in it now because I have used it so much for this, so it has become the official cone washer drift. Fits perfect on the stud and doesn't slip.
Sometimes it takes a little more persuasion than others, but they have all eventually come off. It is also great stress relief, I use a 2lb sledge with the drift.
Tucker
A hammer and brass drift worked for me recently (still haven't got it back together). I also have a sharpened chisel which I have used in the past. The hammer and drift worked better this time.
True story. Just go easy and don't mushroom anything.
End of the stud, the small piece of rubber hose on the end of the air hammer centers on the stud to avoid any damage.
If you are dealing with removing cones that someone/you have previously installed using liberal amounts of silcone/RTV instead of a paper gasket, then a rag soaked in solvent rubbed over the studs and into the cones can be used to help to break down the silicone...all the previously mentioned methods then will work much better.
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We always hit the flange with a blunt bit straight on, like trying to drive the flange into the hub. Almost always has all of the cones moving in seconds. We never hit the studs, that is a great way to plastic deform, weaken, ruin, them. But results would depend on the definition of "hammer" with a weak/cheap one, may have to hit the studs to get results.
Head over to Hazard Fraught and pick yourself up one of these fancy brass thumb-detectors.
2 lb. Hickory Handle Brass Hammer
2 lb. Hickory Handle Brass Hammer
That is what I use works fine, keep the nuts on and just go around tapping the studs, I then wipe little grease on the cones when reinstalling, this will pop them right out the next time and prevents any corrosion forming to lock them in