Which of these wheels would you install on your own LC200? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PaulC
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All of those look great.....
Some others to consider:
Trail Series
Icon Vehicle Dynamics
Braid Winrace T
Hutchinson 17" Rock Monster Beadlock Wheel Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series and Tundra
I wouldn't sweat hubcentric vs "lugcentric". If you properly tighten the lug nuts there are no balance issues*. And so long as the hub bore is at least ~114mm you can get a set of adapter rings made if you really care. My Icon Six Speed wheels are 5x150, +25 offset, and 116.5mm bore and I had a set of 110-116.5mm aluminum rings made for $30.
* simply tightening in a star pattern with an air wrench does NOT correctly align your wheel. The proper way to ensure lugcentric wheels are centered is to tighten the lugs by hand in a star pattern several times around until they are tight, then use a torque wrench. You want to make sure the wheel is centered before cranking them down... if you torque them hard in one pass like with an air wrench they will often be mis-centered by a fraction of a mm, which is just enough to make it feel like they are unbalanced. FWIW I recently had a shop rotate who just used an air wrench and the balance sucked at 60mph. I jacked up each side and did the above procedure and the next weekend was cruising at 80mph without any vibration.
* simply tightening in a star pattern with an air wrench does NOT correctly align your wheel. The proper way to ensure lugcentric wheels are centered is to tighten the lugs by hand in a star pattern several times around until they are tight, then use a torque wrench. You want to make sure the wheel is centered before cranking them down... if you torque them hard in one pass like with an air wrench they will often be mis-centered by a fraction of a mm, which is just enough to make it feel like they are unbalanced. FWIW I recently had a shop rotate who just used an air wrench and the balance sucked at 60mph. I jacked up each side and did the above procedure and the next weekend was cruising at 80mph without any vibration.
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
I'm new here and to customizing trucks, I have been working on my vintage motorcycles for years but can't do that with my wife and 4 yr old.
I have a 2010 LX570 and I was looking at putting a set of Icon Rebounds on it. But am having a hard time figuring out tire size. A buddy told me to get the K02s but they don't make a 285/65 r17. They make a 285/70 r17 i used this calculator and was trying to get it as close to stock size as possible, to maintain speedo accuracy. I don't want to deal with wheel rub at this point. I have called local outfitters and wheel and tire shops and nobody has even tried to help, even when I would be buying from them. I was just hoping a person with more experience than I could help me with this set up.
Thanks in advance for any help and guidance!
I have a 2010 LX570 and I was looking at putting a set of Icon Rebounds on it. But am having a hard time figuring out tire size. A buddy told me to get the K02s but they don't make a 285/65 r17. They make a 285/70 r17 i used this calculator and was trying to get it as close to stock size as possible, to maintain speedo accuracy. I don't want to deal with wheel rub at this point. I have called local outfitters and wheel and tire shops and nobody has even tried to help, even when I would be buying from them. I was just hoping a person with more experience than I could help me with this set up.
Thanks in advance for any help and guidance!
RCR,
Welcome, if you are looking for a stock size 17" then I would look to tire of your choice in 285/70 17 and believe that is the recommended size on RW wheels for a 200.
Welcome, if you are looking for a stock size 17" then I would look to tire of your choice in 285/70 17 and believe that is the recommended size on RW wheels for a 200.
The rebounds have a 25 offset. The rock warriors a 50 offset. That means the tire is shifted out about one inch with the rebounds. These rims are more in line with the offset you’d want for a larger diameter tire (35 inch or more).
For 17” with a higher offset the Evo corsa has 40 offset.
For 17” with a higher offset the Evo corsa has 40 offset.
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
I just chose the Rebound for the looks. I want to get a tire best for my vehicle and application, mostly around town and some overland type stuff.
Lots of variables to consider and very case by case. This could be a good set up. I'm liking the Evo Course Dakarzero Trying to find a 285/65 r17 tire. Any thoughts on these? Seems to be less common. But it will affect my speedo less and figure that is a good thing.
Speedo reads fast out of the box on 31s.
Accurate on 32s and slow on 33+
Accurate on 32s and slow on 33+
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
So I should run the 285/70 r17's and it will be more better then, Eh. 
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
Lots of misinformation on the internet. Drop your spare and read the info stamped on the back it will tell you width offset and diameter
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
This is true of the off set.I come from the school of sports cars and track days, where having the right scrub radius is crucial. It's not any less crucial on trucks, but there's somewhat less noticeable impacts. Don't get me wrong as there is, but people are more forgiving of ill suspension habits, and truck steering has a way of isolating and masking the steering feedback.
I ask about tire diameter, because it has immediate implications on optimal scrub radius. Following the graphic, one can imagine if the tire diameter grows, the intersection at the tire contact patch between the tire center and pivot angle radius will change. Having the right offset per tire diameter brings that relationship back to center.
Back of the napkin estimates says:
Stock 31.2" tire, 60mm offset.
For a 33" tire, ~48mm.
35" tire, ~35mm.
This is why you see all OEM wheels, designed to run a ~31.2" tire, have an offset of 60mm. Also why rock warrior wheels, designed to run a ~32.8" tire (285/70r17), have an offset of 50mm. And also why the Arctic Truck wheel, designed for a 35" tire, have an offset of 30mm.
So before picking a wheel, one wants to narrow down the desired tire size.
I personally like OEM wheels. Pick the style you want, then apply the spacer, as necessary, to get the optimal offset. I don't love spacers, but it's the lesser of some evils in my mind.
Wheel manufacturing process, while interesting, is not as important in my mind. Each process can make a good wheel. Some inherently stronger, perhaps with less material. But where this comes into play, is that manufacturers will vary the wheel geometry to take advantage of a process, to reach a final strength requirement/target. Therefore, none is inherently stronger, unless they are designed to meet a higher load rating requirement. I personally trust OEM wheels for the heavy lifting my car needs to do.
Somewhat off topic and this is from the rumormill, but there's suggestions that 16+ OEM wheels may have a slightly different stock offset? I've heard ~56mm? Perhaps as a result of redesigned suspension upright changing steering axis inclination?
The OEM wheels are fine for me. I’d rather spend my money on something that will improve my truck, like armor or a lift.
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
I don't see any FN wheels with 5x150 bolt pattern.
I’d go for these for a 200 series or my LX470,
But at $6k just for the 4-piece wheel set, it’s tough and may cause sudden death on the wallet.
But at $6k just for the 4-piece wheel set, it’s tough and may cause sudden death on the wallet.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I like it, alot. For a “stock looking” truck like what I have that is a DD, I beg the same question..
EBay price.
No question, if I had the funds it would be Volk TE37s. If wheels are to basketball shoes, then the Volks are to Jordans. Volks are def race car /dedicated track car quality and strength. Japan made car and Volks is bread and butter. Cheese on pizza.
Here is some reading on how they are made. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/wheels-tires/1305-how-volk-racing-te37-is-made
Second would be the Evo Corse wheels. Great style, strength, decent price.
Third - TRD wheels. BBS makes them. Can't go wrong with BBS.
Here is some reading on how they are made. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/wheels-tires/1305-how-volk-racing-te37-is-made
Second would be the Evo Corse wheels. Great style, strength, decent price.
Third - TRD wheels. BBS makes them. Can't go wrong with BBS.
I come from the school of sports cars and track days, where having the right scrub radius is crucial. It's not any less crucial on trucks, but there's somewhat less noticeable impacts. Don't get me wrong as there is, but people are more forgiving of ill suspension habits, and truck steering has a way of isolating and masking the steering feedback.
I ask about tire diameter, because it has immediate implications on optimal scrub radius. Following the graphic, one can imagine if the tire diameter grows, the intersection at the tire contact patch between the tire center and pivot angle radius will change. Having the right offset per tire diameter brings that relationship back to center.
Back of the napkin estimates says:
Stock 31.2" tire, 60mm offset.
For a 33" tire, ~48mm.
35" tire, ~35mm.
This is why you see all OEM wheels, designed to run a ~31.2" tire, have an offset of 60mm. Also why rock warrior wheels, designed to run a ~32.8" tire (285/70r17), have an offset of 50mm. And also why the Arctic Truck wheel, designed for a 35" tire, have an offset of 30mm.
So before picking a wheel, one wants to narrow down the desired tire size.
I personally like OEM wheels. Pick the style you want, then apply the spacer, as necessary, to get the optimal offset. I don't love spacers, but it's the lesser of some evils in my mind.
Wheel manufacturing process, while interesting, is not as important in my mind. Each process can make a good wheel. Some inherently stronger, perhaps with less material. But where this comes into play, is that manufacturers will vary the wheel geometry to take advantage of a process, to reach a final strength requirement/target. Therefore, none is inherently stronger, unless they are designed to meet a higher load rating requirement. I personally trust OEM wheels for the heavy lifting my car needs to do.
Somewhat off topic and this is from the rumormill, but there's suggestions that 16+ OEM wheels may have a slightly different stock offset? I've heard ~56mm? Perhaps as a result of redesigned suspension upright changing steering axis inclination?
Hello TeCKis300,
I am in a bit of dilemma trying to select best offset for my wheels on my LC200 2011 model.
I have a 285/65R17 tyre (printed on tyre) and 8Jx17 ET60 + 5x150 sized wheel as per Toyota Land Cruiser 2011 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs
i want to upgrade to 285/70/17 tyres with rims that go with 25mm positive offset, this way it would stick out and look cooler. Then I read about your post about the scrub radius which got me worried.
I calculated the scrub radius via Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets
Then the result from above link said it would affect my handling.
I have a bit more complexity on my LC200 as I just got the suspension upgraded by ARB by installing the BP51s which gave me a 2-inch lift setting, now should this 2-inch be taken into consideration as well? I think so...
Your guidance is appreciated please...
Thanks in advance.
