Which GM Performance Parts Crate Motor (1 Viewer)

[79 Cherokee]

I'm thinking of buying a new crate motor from GM Performance Parts rather than build the old 383 SBC that came with the unfinished FJ40 project I purchased. There is a lot of talk of how These GM factory crate motors are a great value and I have to agree. The nationwide warranty is nice as well. For about $1500, I can get the long block 250 HP p/n 10067353 or for $500 more, I can get the 290 HP p/n 12499529. I'll be running stock axles and transfer case with a TH350 automatic and this will be a 75% street / 25% trail ride. Any recommendations on which motor to go with, or a different crate motor altogether?

250HP: http://paceperformance.com/i-648448...-v8-universal-crate-engine-free-shipping.html

290HP: http://paceperformance.com/i-6255330-12499529-gm-performance-sbc-350cid-290hp-crate-engine.html

 

[FJsnoozer]

The first one for best overall driveability and gas mileage.

Specifications:
Power: 250 HP @4300 RPM, 350 ft. lbs. of torque @ 3600 RPMDisplacement: 350 CID, 5.7L
Bore x Stroke: 4.00” x 3.48”
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Recommended Fuel: 87 Octane
Block: Cast Iron, 2 piece rear seal, 4-bolt main caps.
Crankshaft: Nodular Iron
Connecting Rods: Powdered Metal Steel
Pistons: Cast Aluminum
Camshaft: Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Cam Lift: .383” Intake / .401” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 194 deg. Intake / 202 deg. ExhaustLobe Separation: 112 Degree
Cylinder Heads: Cast Iron, 3/8” pressed in rocker studs.
Combustion Chamber: 76cc
Valves: .194” Intake/ 1.50” Exhaust
Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel, 1.5:1 Ratio
Valve Springs:3911068
Balance: Internal
Maximum GM Recommended RPM: 5100
Ignition Timing: Base 10 degrees BTDC, 32 degrees total

Cylinder Head Notes: 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's.

Specifications:
Power: 290 HP @5250 RPM, 332 ft. lbs. of torque @ 3750 RPMDisplacement: 350 CID, 5.7L
Bore x Stroke: 4.00” x 3.48”
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Recommended Fuel: 87 Octane
Block: Cast Iron, 2 piece rear seal, 4-bolt main caps.
Crankshaft: Nodular Iron
Connecting Rods: Powdered Metal Steel
Pistons: Cast Aluminum
Camshaft: Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Cam Lift: .450” Intake / .460” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 222deg. Intake / 222 deg. ExhaustLobe Separation: 112 Degree
Cylinder Heads: Cast Iron, 3/8” pressed in rocker studs.
Combustion Chamber: 76cc
Valves: .194” Intake/ 1.50” Exhaust
Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel, 1.5:1 Ratio
Valve Springs:3911068
Balance: Internal
Maximum GM Recommended RPM: 5100
Ignition Timing: Base 10 degrees BTDC, 32 degrees total

Cylinder Head Notes: 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's.

 

[TCinVA]

I put the 290 HP in mine, internal parts are a little better and it didn't cost but about 3-350 more since I knew the parts counter guy and he gave me a discount. I love my drivetrain.

 

[FJsnoozer]

How can you say the internal parts are better? they are listed right there.

The difference is the camshaft. One is more suited to a truck, one is more suited for a light pony car.

Not to mention the max recommended rpm is 5100 and the 290 HP motor Peaks at 5250, which means it makes power to at least 5500. They both use the same valve springs, which is scary.

 

[terrx]

Neither one. I'd get an L31 engine for the same money as the 290HP one you linked to.

http://paceperformance.com/i-648492...00-chevy-gmc-full-size-trucks-3-4-ton-up.html

The ones you posted have flat tappet cams and old style heads & valve covers. The L31 is a later design with vortec heads and roller cam. The link above has 4 bolt mains which are not that important for a cruiser IMO but it's only $40 more than 2 bolt. You'd need an electric fuel pump and vortec carb intake.

 

[fieldsken1]

I put the 350/290 one in mine and it works just fine. I think it was 1900 dollars when I brought it from summit racing. It has a 2 year warranty at the dealership. When I went to the dealership they fought with me but they found out they were wrong and they had to homer the .2 years They also were not happy that is was brought from someone else but that's life get over it. Buy the 290

 

[fieldsken1]

Neither one. I'd get an L31 engine for the same money as the 290HP one you linked to.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6484922-12530283-5-7l-l31-r-1996-2000-chevy-gmc-full-size-trucks-3-4-ton-up.html

The ones you posted have flat tappet cams and old style heads & valve covers. The L31 is a later design with vortec heads and roller cam. The link above has 4 bolt mains which are not that important for a cruiser IMO but it's only $40 more than 2 bolt. You'd need an electric fuel pump and vortec carb intake.

Read the notes on this one. ( newer trans)

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

All you're really buying with that 290 HP is acceleration, because with the gearing of a Land Cruiser (4.11 or 3.73) you're not gonna get a much better top speed. Plus with stock suspension, anything over 60-65 gets squirelly.

Of those two, I'd take the 250HP engine - Still plenty of "git-up" on the highway to get you moving with traffic, and more torque at a lower RPM - in short, it's a truck engine...for your truck...

The 290 seems more like a "builder" engine, with the job started for you (different cam) - like something you'd put in a muscle car. High RPM power and torque seem pretty useless to me in a 40. Then again, you will find tons of guys who dropped either one of these into their trucks and love them.

I'm running a pretty tired, leaky Gen1 Goodwrench/Targetmaster 350SBC fleet engine from around 1972 - I would be shocked if I'm getting 200 horsepower from it, and I still have no trouble accelerating with traffic on the road. If I was going to replace it, it would be with the 350/250.

Just my .02

 

[fieldsken1]

a stock 350sbc is around 180hp

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

a stock 350sbc is around 180hp

Yeah I guestimate mine to around there...not sure what the PO really did to it, but I know it's got more pick-up than a 2F, so I'd guess I'm around 160-180 range then. Compression check is on my list of things to do.

Either way, I'd happily pick up the 250/350 for a swap.

 

[Diskord]

Of those two, I'd take the 250HP engine - Still plenty of "git-up" on the highway to get you moving with traffic, and more torque at a lower RPM - in short, it's a truck engine...for your truck...


I'm running a pretty tired, leaky Gen1 Goodwrench/Targetmaster 350SBC fleet engine from around 1972 - I would be shocked if I'm getting 200 horsepower from it, and I still have no trouble accelerating with traffic on the road. If I was going to replace it, it would be with the 350/250.

Just my .02

Agreed, low end torque is more important

 

[nitroid13]

I would go with the e-rod 5.3 kit and it's a truck engine so you would have the tourqe numbers you want and fuel injection for 5700

 

[warpdriv]

While your at it, ditch the TH350 and get a 700r4. Lower 1st gear, Overdrive, same bolt pattern.

 

[terrx]

Read the notes on this one. ( newer trans)

The L31 vortec is a gen1 bolt pattern.

 

[jtaco1]

You can get a low mileage 5.3 with a modified harness and tune for around $2k these days that is ready to drop in, why go with old school technology for the same price. They bolt to the common transmissions, exhaust is pretty much the same, just slightly more to get the inline fuel pump setup.

Or get a junkyard take out and strip the harness yourself for under $1k.

 

[FJsnoozer]

you can run a 5.3/5.7 ls1/ 6.0 ls2 carbed FYI

They also have distributor setups for them.

I was a camaro vette mustang guy in a past life.

 

[duffontap]

You can get a low mileage 5.3 with a modified harness and tune for around $2k these days that is ready to drop in, why go with old school technology for the same price. They bolt to the common transmissions, exhaust is pretty much the same, just slightly more to get the inline fuel pump setup.

Or get a junkyard take out and strip the harness yourself for under $1k.

Just taking a stab at your question:

I think the appeal of a new crate motor is psychological. It's the idea that there is one part on your truck that you really don't have to worry about much for 200k. There is no PO--you break it in, you maintain it, you enjoy it. I'm a 2F guy but I can sure see the appeal of that.

 

[ingomar]

If it'll bolt in, and maybe all you need is a flexplate and a different intake manifold, like Terrx says the Vortec head motor is the way to go. Because it has superior heads compared to most Gen1's, it will make more power with a milder camshaft (and it's a roller, which is even better yet). It will have just as good low-end and smoothness as the 250/350 Gen1 motor with a lot better upper-end power for foolin' around!