Which engine swap would be best for me? (5.3, 6.2 diesel, other?)

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Joe Link

Joe Link

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Jun 7, 2005
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My FZJ80 has 247k on it right now, and while it runs great, I'd like to plan ahead for the demise of the 1FZ-FE or the transmission. While rebuilding the 1FZ would likely be the easiest route, my main objective is to increase fuel mileage and range.

I've been looking into quite a few different engine options and at the top of my list are the GM 5.3 and the GM 6.2 diesel. It would be nice to pick up some extra power, but it's not a requirement. I'd like to keep the cost for the engine and transmission around $2000. I'm hoping to come in around $5,000 total, and I'll be doing the work myself.

I'd love to hear from others who have swapped or driven vehicles with these swaps, as well as any others I might be forgetting. Real world mileage figures would be great as well.
 
Why not a 4bd or 4bt? Seems like you are after the same things I am, right down with planning ahead of time (I have 260k on mine), and those are my top choices.
 
I considered it but the cost seemed to be considerably more. It also seems the mannerisms are a bit more unrefined than the SBC or 6.2 diesel.

Forgot to add, I prefer automatic transmissions.
 
The quotes I've gotten from two different shops are between $12k and $15k to do a 5.3 or a 6.0 swap. I am now planning on just rebuilding the 1FZ when it needs it, however with guys on here running over 400k on unrebuilt motors, I don't think I'll be in any hurry.

My wife's rig is an '05 Denali XL with the 6.0, and that is a lot of engine--tons of power for daily driving, and I tow an 8,000# boat with it as well (stage two trans kit, custom rear air suspension). Putting one of those units in an 80 would equal lots of grins, if you can swing the cost.
 
There is actually a 80,000 mile 6.0 sitting on an engine stand at work that was going to go into an old Chevy I could probably get for a decent price. Has the tranny with it too. My issue is from the research I have done it looks like the 6.0 gets around 2-3mpg less than the 5.3. I would rather have the extra fuel mileage than the extra bit of power.

No way I could afford the swap unless I did it myself.

Anyone have any real world MPG numbers? Who can claim the most fuel efficient FJ80?
 
The big advantage of the GM Vortecs aside from what has been mentioned already is parts availability. You can literally build one of these motors from parts out of the big box stores, right down to the block. The aftermarket support is also HUGE. No more going to the dealer for even basic parts. I am currently pulling our 92 80 series apart prepping for a 5.3/ 4L60E/split case swap. Just finished up same swap in a 1989 62.
 
go 4l80e, couldnt give me the 60....
 
Have you used the 4L80E in a swap? What is so bad about the 4L60E?
 
I run a 2006 5.3l in my 80. I average about 15mpg in combined mileage which gets me about 300 miles per tank (light comes on).

I did all the work myself and still spent about $6k on the swap. I sourced the engine and 4l60e trans from a recycler in new hamphire. I used an adapter from Marks 4wd in Australia to mate the 4l60e to the stock full time case. However my case has since been converted to part time.

Power wise, it feels about twice as fast as it did stock. Acceleration is greatly improved along with passing ability.

My rig weighs 5300lbs in its current condition. Save for the arb front bumper and winch, I have no other armor. I run 285 tires and stock 4.10 gears.

There's nothing wrong with running the 60e in an 80. The 80e has a crappy first gear and really kills acceleration. It was designed for the torque of a big block and is stupid power hungry. I bet using one with a gen3 swap would net an 80 that is just as slow as before off the line.
 
I am new to the Toyota world, but this is a subject I have some first hand experience with. Up until I bought my 80, I was a Jeep guy (25+ years). I had a full size Cherokee (ie 2 door Wagoneer) that I swapped a 5.3, NV3500, and NP241 into. Size and weight wise, the full size Jeeps and an 80 are real close in size and weight. The 5.3 moved that truck with ease. I later pulled the drivetrain and swapped in into a Wagoneer with a 4L80E. The 4L80E was no hindrance at all. If you wanted to scoot, it would scoot. It shifts just like a TH400, or for that matter much like the stock trans in the 80. Quick firm shifts, not the mush that most automatics these days seem to do.

As for MPG, with the NV3500, I pulled 18 once, but averaged 16 with 3.54 gears and 35" tires (over 15k miles). When I swapped in 4.56 gears, my MPGs dropped to 15 average (over 10k miles). I never did get mpg readings with the 4L80E, but they would be worse. Keeping a full time transfer case will also impact mpg negatively.

rockrod said:
I run a 2006 5.3l in my 80. I average about 15mpg in combined mileage which gets me about 300 miles per tank (light comes on).

I did all the work myself and still spent about $6k on the swap. I sourced the engine and 4l60e trans from a recycler in new hamphire. I used an adapter from Marks 4wd in Australia to mate the 4l60e to the stock full time case. However my case has since been converted to part time.

Power wise, it feels about twice as fast as it did stock. Acceleration is greatly improved along with passing ability.

My rig weighs 5300lbs in its current condition. Save for the arb front bumper and winch, I have no other armor. I run 285 tires and stock 4.10 gears.

There's nothing wrong with running the 60e in an 80. The 80e has a crappy first gear and really kills acceleration. It was designed for the torque of a big block and is stupid power hungry. I bet using one with a gen3 swap would net an 80 that is just as slow as before off the line.
Click to expand...
 
the 4l60e is just junk, having had a 95 Z28 and a 98 i know. would loose 3rd and OD in the 4L60E. swapped my LT1 car to a 6 speed and when i got my LS1 car i went to a TH350. i tried everything but could never get one to stay together. now i was making over 400HP in the LT1 car and nearly 600HP with the LS1 car on the bottle but since the 80 series is so heavy just get the 4L80E now and be done with it.
 
Military 6.2 is the way to go. Easy to put in and work on. I'm lovin it. Not sure about my mpg's yet but I already can tell its better than the stock 4.5.
 
My vote is for the Bomb Proof 4BT with the NV4500 behind it. I would have to say good luck realistically getting any of these diesels into you rig for $5k. Money adds up quick on these swaps. Especially when you do it right. You will for sure be doing almost everything yourself for 5k.
 
Just saw you were asking about MPG. There are guys pulling 20+ mpg out of their rigs all day long with the cummins. Obviously not with 44" tires though. Boots4 I think that his name on mud I know has a real nicely set up FJ60 with one in it. He is a great resource for knowledge on the 4bt if your interested. I know it's a different model LC but they are close enough. The other reason I will do a Cummins 4bt or 6bt over a Chevy diesel is one the simplicity of the motor. The only wire on the thing is the fuel cutoff switch... Second reason which is much cooler.... I worked at the Pentagaon for a while and when I was there there were three companies that were in competition to build Road Side bomb proof vehicles for the military. I'll give you one guess what motor they were running in two out of three of the trucks... That's right. Two of the trucks had beefed up 4BT's in them and the other had a modified Northstar V8 of some sort.
 
Oh and by the way I am not one of those brand savvy biased BS guys. I drive a GMC Duramax. Along with my 3 yotas. And won't own a dodge. For many reasons. But I just can't deny the reputation of the 4BT.
 
Drive a converted rig with the motor you think you want before you swap one in.. it will be a good investment. Going from a 1fz to a 4bt is a huge difference in noise and vibration. HUGE. Check out Boots' build in the Extreme section. Take note of all the go back and start over things he dealt with. I think a 6bt or 6.5 gmc would be the most easily fit diesel into an 80, with a standard tranny it is tough to squeeze in all the clutch related stuff. Vortec Gas motors have a lot more support for conversions and related parts. IF paying someone else to do it go with a proven shop (with cruiser experience)
To keep under the 5k total stick with a complete donor rig with a good running drivetrain and make the whole works fit- maybe keep the t-case or go part-time/ 60/62 case-
I'm going on 2.5 years with a 4bt / NV4500 to a split case.. Sigh... Almost road worthy ..
 
slow95z said:
the 4l60e is just junk, having had a 95 Z28 and a 98 i know. would loose 3rd and OD in the 4L60E. swapped my LT1 car to a 6 speed and when i got my LS1 car i went to a TH350. i tried everything but could never get one to stay together. now i was making over 400HP in the LT1 car and nearly 600HP with the LS1 car on the bottle but since the 80 series is so heavy just get the 4L80E now and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Pushing that kind of power through any level of build in a 4l60e going to cause it to have a short life. Just because it failed for you in a racing situation doesn't automatically make it junk. They will handle a stock 5.3 all day long. As a side note, the pan clearance is an issue with the 4l60e and even more so with an 4L80. You pretty much have to run a 6in lift to clear the front shaft when running a 4l80. Finally the 2.48 first is a big disadvantage for crawling. The 4l60e owns the 4L80 with its 3.06 first.
 
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