Where to start with 2F engine stalling

Pighead

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I’m not proficient enough to remove the entire carb unit to remove the solenoid.
That would be truly unfortunate if true. That carbs gotta come off sooner or later.
Fortunately, 'Mud excells at walking formerly non-proficient owners through some very complicated procedures (where is Pura Vida anyway?)
If you have or can acquire some very basic hand tools, can follow written directions (or pictures), you can remove a carb. You can even put it back on.
One maneuver that has been utilized effectively is to cater a weekend brunch at your driveway and invite the local LandCruiser club(s) to attend. You may be able to find a volunteer or two to walk you through it in person, which would be ideal.
Show us pics of your carb. And your toolbox.
 

OPMACHINE

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I don’t think you are getting a good click: I would rule out the fuel cut solenoid. Make sure the solenoid is getting 12v and has a good ground. In my experience 90% of electrical issues are tied to a bad ground.


Remove, inspect/replace engine fuse.

A few years ago I had very similar symptoms with the root cause being a bad ground on the fuel cut solenoid and a partially blown/intermittent fuse (Probably from me trying to get it to idle/start).
 
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I don’t think you are getting a good click: I would rule out the fuel cut solenoid. Make sure the solenoid is getting 12v and has a good ground. In my experience 90% of electrical issues are tied to a bad ground.


Remove, inspect/replace engine fuse.

A few years ago I had very similar symptoms with the root cause being a bad ground on the fuel cut solenoid and a partially blown/intermittent fuse (Probably from me trying to get it to idle/start).
@OPMACHINE and @ToyotaMatt i inspected the engine 15a fuse and it looks aftermarket. But again, truck ran fine for the last few months. Is there a huge difference between say a Bussman fuse (same amp spec) and say the colored factory fuses that are now out of production. Surely quality fuses are quality fuses :)
 
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I don’t think you are getting a good click: I would rule out the fuel cut solenoid. Make sure the solenoid is getting 12v and has a good ground. In my experience 90% of electrical issues are tied to a bad ground.


Remove, inspect/replace engine fuse.

A few years ago I had very similar symptoms with the root cause being a bad ground on the fuel cut solenoid and a partially blown/intermittent fuse (Probably from me trying to get it to idle/start).
Quickly did some tests with digi multi meter:

1) Checked ground/contact with main wiring harness on the chassis side (the green plug/harness that plugs into FCS itself from main): Good
2) Checked switched power on the main wiring harness: 11.5v (did not start car)
3) Checked ground/contact on carb with general point on chassis bolt: Good
4) Checked ground/contact on shorter wire (green plug) on FCS to carb: good
5) With FCS disconnected from main harness, hard wired FCS directly to battery - nice loud click
6) Plugged back together (cleaned with contact solvent) and Switched 12v to listen to FCS - and having trouble hearing it as I have some kind of emission/other relay clicking (its normal), so need to get the wife to get my ear away from the relay that is also switching on. CONFIRMED: strong click with key turn.
7) Checked 15A fuse for Engine - metered fine with contact, but does have original Toyota fuse here ( I was wrong in my post above as it being aftermarket). I do not think this is the issue.

Open to other suggestions.
 
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ToyotaMatt

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Quickly did some tests with digi multi meter:

1) Checked ground/contact with main wiring harness on the chassis side (the green plug/harness that plugs into FCS itself from main): Good
2) Checked switched power on the main wiring harness: 11.5v (did not start car)
3) Checked ground/contact on carb with general point on chassis bolt: Good
4) Checked ground/contact on shorter wire (green plug) on FCS to carb: good
5) With FCS disconnected from main harness, hard wired FCS directly to battery - nice loud click
6) Plugged back together (cleaned with contact solvent) and Switched 12v to listen to FCS - and having trouble hearing it as I have some kind of emission/other relay clicking (its normal), so need to get the wife to get my ear away from the relay that is also switching on. CONFIRMED: strong click with key turn.
7) Checked 15A fuse for Engine - metered fine with contact, but does have original Toyota fuse here ( I was wrong in my post above as it being aftermarket). I do not think this is the issue.

Open to other suggestions.



i think you should take the @Engineer8000 's Suggestion and focus on the emissions computer here


politely said of course, :)

you don't have the trained eye or the testing equipment to diagnose it , most folks don't for that matter , i don't thats for sure ,

he might even have a pre-restored unit right now to send you ,

and you mail him your old one as a CORE / trade-in exchange like a old starter or alternator for example ......


this is more common then most folks realize ....


it should be your next area of focus ......
 

OPMACHINE

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5) With FCS disconnected from main harness, hard wired FCS directly to battery - nice loud click
6) Plugged back together (cleaned with contact solvent) and Switched 12v to listen to FCS - and having trouble hearing it as I have some kind of emission/other relay clicking (its normal), so need to get the wife to get my ear away from the relay that is also switching on.

Will it start/idle with the FCS wired directly to the battery?
 
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5) With FCS disconnected from main harness, hard wired FCS directly to battery - nice loud click
6) Plugged back together (cleaned with contact solvent) and Switched 12v to listen to FCS - and having trouble hearing it as I have some kind of emission/other relay clicking (its normal), so need to get the wife to get my ear away from the relay that is also switching on.

Will it start/idle with the FCS wired directly to the battery?
Well that is what I was thinking.....but does it rest in the closed position (engine off) - then clicks open when engine starts...does it click close at all during engine warm up?

Need to know before I try this one.
 

Pighead

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Should click open when ignition is on and stay open until ignition torns off. No clicking closed while running

EDIT: WRONG. Read on
 
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Should click open when ignition is on and stay open until ignition torns off. No clicking closed while running
Will try in a bit - I am betting it does not do anything. But Im out of ideas outside of rebuilding the carb....or sniping it all together.
 

OPMACHINE

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I was under the impression that the emissions control module should close the solenoid under certain conditions. Like the moment you take your foot off the accelerator while coasting down a hill. The solenoid should be grounded thru the ECM and under certain conditions the ECM will break the ground connection to the Fuel Cut Solenoid.

I common fix for the pre 8/80 trucks it to ground the Fuel Cut Solenoid on the carb so when you turn on the ignition the Fuel Cut Solenoid fires open. As mentioned above the 8/80 and later FJ40 have a more reliable ECM.

I am just regurgitating info I read from @Pin_Head a few years ago.
 
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I was under the impression that the emissions control module should close the solenoid under certain conditions. Like the moment you take your foot off the accelerator while coasting down a hill. The solenoid should be grounded thru the ECM and under certain conditions the ECM will break the ground connection to the Fuel Cut Solenoid.

I common fix for the pre 8/80 trucks it to ground the Fuel Cut Solenoid on the carb so when you turn on the ignition the Fuel Cut Solenoid fires open. As mentioned above the 8/80 and later FJ40 have a more reliable ECM.

I am just regurgitating info I read from @Pin_Head a few years ago.
That is why I am asking because like you, I recall seeing something on this as well. Ill poke around some more.
 

brian

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I was under the impression that the emissions control module should close the solenoid under certain conditions. Like the moment you take your foot off the accelerator while coasting down a hill. The solenoid should be grounded thru the ECM and under certain conditions the ECM will break the ground connection to the Fuel Cut Solenoid.
so you're coasting down a hill, with the engine off? sounds great.

it's sole purpose is to prevent "dieseling" after shutdown when the engine is hot.
nonusa carbs that are on cruisers with 0 smog crap have the FCS as well.
 
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so you're coasting down a hill, with the engine off? sounds great.

it's sole purpose is to prevent "dieseling" after shutdown when the engine is hot.
nonusa carbs that are on cruisers with 0 smog crap have the FCS as well.
Ill give it a shot later tonight....I am hearing a fairly stong and similar click with key and direct....totally get that I have no way of seeing this unless I remove it and inspect it. I suspect engine will continue to die - but I am super open to EATING MY OWN WORDS to have a happy FJ running like it used to. Hate this SMOG stuff.
 

OPMACHINE

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Not try to die on this mountain, but why run the FCS thru the ECM if it has not other function other than to prevent dieseling? Agree, non SMOG equipped 2F engines have a single wire FCS.


Food for thought:
 

OPMACHINE

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The SMOG stuff should not affect the reliability of you engine. Removing it is not much different than letting it rot/die in place. It may affect the resale value in certain states. Removing it does clean up the engine bay and make it easer to work on.

I removed the Air Pump, Air Rail, ASV system and the Top BCSV valve and left the rest of it in place.

Before:
1660680579785.png

After:
1660681701494.png
 

Engineer8000

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The emission computer will allow the FCS to close under conditions of hi rpm and hi manifold vacuum, like you suddenly let off the gas. Per the manual, this system cuts off part of the fuel in the slow circuit of the carburetor to prevent overheating and afterburning in the exhaust system. This is called the deceleration fuel cut system, first seen in the 1979 manual. I know earlier trucks had basically a hard wired solenoid on the carb that was not controlled by the emission computer. I'm not a carb expert so I couldn't say what the purpose of that was.
 
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