Where to start with 2F engine stalling

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Well unfortunately she’s dead in the water and can no longer be started (turns and no catch). I let her run for about a minute to minute at full choke to perform a propane/vac test and didn’t find any leaks. Also tried removing the gas cap. Pushing choke back in stalled the engine restarted tried it again to put a vacuum gauge on it to get a reading…/pushed choke back in and she stalled - and now she’s not starting and I’m getting full fuel in the carb window. So I’m gonna let her sit for about an hour (maybe flooded) and just try to get her back in the garage and figure out my next step.

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down in a hole.
double check for vac leaks. It could be clogged jets. you can remove the float bowl plugs and remove the air horn and pull the jets to check. blow carb cleaner thru all the air bleed ports. reset your float level to half glass and try to get it running. Once you can get it to catch, do an okie rebuild- cover your hand with a welding glove, get the rig running at high idle, then choke it with your gloved hand till it dies. do this several times. IF it does not die, you have unmetered air entering the system (vacuum leaks).
 
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Hook a small vacuum hose to the egr and apply vacuum( suck on the hose )to cycle the egr and it may clear the valve. Apply vacuum and release quickly to let the pintle slam shut. Do this 10 times and try to restart..Bill
Engine on or off when doing this? And assume it’s the rubber hose (you disconnect) from EGR to the EGR modulator?
 

Silver City Cruiser

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Yes do this with the engine off. If you apply vacuum to the egr with it running it will stall. Sort the fuel level first ,once that is stable at idle (or even just cranking) proceed to the egr test.
 

Silver City Cruiser

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Oh ok . Perhaps a new needle and seat and a air horn gasket is in order. Still I think the intermittent stalling and only running with the choke out is egr..I have seen this probably 100 times.
Perhaps you should send the carb to Trollhole and get them to freshen it up if it's not something you want to tackle.
 

Pighead

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[QUOTE="Last Flight Out, post: 14565237, member:
and now she’s not starting and I’m getting full fuel in the carb window.
[/QUOTE]
Clear this up for me please.
"Full fuel in the carb window" means just halfway up the porthole like normal or means fuel all the way up?
 
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[QUOTE="Last Flight Out, post: 14565237, member:
and now she’s not starting and I’m getting full fuel in the carb window.
Clear this up for me please.
"Full fuel in the carb window" means just halfway up the porthole like normal or means fuel all the way up?
[/QUOTE]
Yes my apologies… Fuel levels dead center when running with choke Fully out and it’s only when I push the choke in that the engine stalls.
 
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@Silver City Cruiser thanks for all your help…I’ll need to break open the FSM or find a faq online to help me understand the carb a bit more. Need to see how to get to the top of it, remove and understand how to adjust that level and what is the factory level amount etc. I’m new to this but adept at most maintenance (my last classic was a mini with dual SU’s and those were simple to understand and had super easy access). This is a bit daunting.
 

Pighead

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it’s only when I push the choke in that the engine stalls.
That is a classic sign of a bad fuel cut-off solenoid, but could also be due to a large vacuum leak.
Fuel cut-off solenoids can be defeated. It's not pretty and probably no one here would recomend it but i did it (i have a spare). It just removes one more variable.
 

ToyotaMatt

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- just because the FCS clicks does not simply mean ist in good working order ?


- have you checked all your fuses in your fuse box ?

- this would be a good place to go next .......











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will it start if you keep your foot on the gas pedal? like quarter throttle or better.
I finally got it started yesterday after doing the standard hot start technique, choke all the way out, accelerator down and turn over - and it took literally about 10 seconds in order for it to catch and it did. Over the past few weeks this is been getting progressively worse where it was initially just a stumble at idle and then almost stalling at idle and then stalling at idle and then no longer running at idle. I’m fairly certain the fuses are fine and will check them all. It it was a huge vac leak, I’m sure I would hear it by ear and the last hose that fell off, I could hear it and even then…the truck ran rough but ran at idle. Reconnected that hose and all was well.

This is different… something has failed and I think I’ve ruled out fairly certain that there is not a vacuum leak as I tried the propane test yesterday with no results. I do not want to spray starting fluid all over my original hoses considering their age.
 
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That is a classic sign of a bad fuel cut-off solenoid, but could also be due to a large vacuum leak.
Fuel cut-off solenoids can be defeated. It's not pretty and probably no one here would recomend it but i did it (i have a spare). It just removes one more variable.
I cannot imagine how to get one removed from the carb…it’s in such a tight area and behind the carb…I’m not proficient enough to remove the entire carb unit to remove the solenoid.
 

brian

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. I do not want to spray starting fluid all over my original hoses considering their age.

If you plan on driving it....they need to be replaced....thats a dumpster fire waiting to happen.
 

brian

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This is different… something has failed and I think I’ve ruled out fairly certain that there is not a vacuum leak as I tried the propane test yesterday with no results. I do not want to spray starting fluid all over my original hoses considering their age.
They can be started, and sorta run with a dead fcs.
 

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