Where to start with 2F engine stalling

Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Have an 81, all stock with factory smog. No other mods have been made. To date I have done the following (all OEM parts):
  • Plugs/wires/Filter
  • New fuel filter
  • new fuel lines (where needed)
  • New cap and rotor (inside the distro the generator/timing not replaced/adjusted)
  • Has factory PS pump/new belts
  • Vintage Air AC
  • Strong compression across all cyl,
FJ ran fine for weeks with no issues. My start process is Choke fully out, starts fine and runs strong....I usually wait about 30 seconds and push into 1 stop...then 30 seconds later, fully in. Pushing choke in, now stalls engine.

Fast forward.....Last week it was not as bad, and when coming to a stop, engine idle would waver and stumble - and eventually stall. As of yesterday, engine now stalls with coke in - which is now worse than last week. Give it gas and it pulls out of stall and I get belt squeal pretty badly...this is always at low RPMs...I do not get belt squeal when driving around town. After giving it gas and letting it settle to normal idle...stalls.

Fuel sight glass shows fuel dead center - even when it stalls.

By the "Whatever you changed - star there" Law, The only changes I did Last week - I was washing off my transfer box with degreaser and with water hose....sprayed around that area, but nowhere near engine bay.

I just need to know where to start to figure out if this is carb adjustment or something electrical. Clearly this can be a vac leak with a fully smogged FJ - I will check vac today, but as of a month ago, vac was solid/steady around 17-19 with no needle bouncing at idle.

Thanks for any help!
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,960
Location
KY
Sounds like water may have gotten into an area that it shouldn't have gotten. You also live in a humid part of the country which may have contributed. Try filling the gas tank with new fuel and add some Sta-Bil 360 Marine. Besides being a fuel stabilizer so it doesn't go bad as soon it also works to break up moisture in the system as well as create a vapor that will help prevent rust from forming at the top of the tank where moisture forms.

Another thing is don't worry about time when it comes to turning off the choke. Listen to the engine and how it is reacting and close the choke as the engine dictates. It may simply be taking longer to warm up.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Sounds like water may have gotten into an area that it shouldn't have gotten. You also live in a humid part of the country which may have contributed. Try filling the gas tank with new fuel and add some Sta-Bil 360 Marine. Besides being a fuel stabilizer so it doesn't go bad as soon it also works to break up moisture in the system as well as create a vapor that will help prevent rust from forming at the top of the tank where moisture forms.

Another thing is don't worry about time when it comes to turning off the choke. Listen to the engine and how it is reacting and close the choke as the engine dictates. It may simply be taking longer to warm up.
thanks @B y r o n but not sure how moisture would have done something simply by washing off the transfer case. I mean the frame may have gotten wet, but anything in that area where water would have done something to the way the engine runs?
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
868
Location
Tucson, Az
Have an 81, all stock with factory smog. No other mods have been made. To date I have done the following (all OEM parts):
  • Plugs/wires/Filter
  • New fuel filter
  • new fuel lines (where needed)
  • New cap and rotor (inside the distro the generator/timing not replaced/adjusted)
  • Has factory PS pump/new belts
  • Vintage Air AC
  • Strong compression across all cyl,
FJ ran fine for weeks with no issues. My start process is Choke fully out, starts fine and runs strong....I usually wait about 30 seconds and push into 1 stop...then 30 seconds later, fully in. Pushing choke in, now stalls engine.

Fast forward.....Last week it was not as bad, and when coming to a stop, engine idle would waver and stumble - and eventually stall. As of yesterday, engine now stalls with coke in - which is now worse than last week. Give it gas and it pulls out of stall and I get belt squeal pretty badly...this is always at low RPMs...I do not get belt squeal when driving around town. After giving it gas and letting it settle to normal idle...stalls.

Fuel sight glass shows fuel dead center - even when it stalls.

By the "Whatever you changed - star there" Law, The only changes I did Last week - I was washing off my transfer box with degreaser and with water hose....sprayed around that area, but nowhere near engine bay.

I just need to know where to start to figure out if this is carb adjustment or something electrical. Clearly this can be a vac leak with a fully smogged FJ - I will check vac today, but as of a month ago, vac was solid/steady around 17-19 with no needle bouncing at idle.

Thanks for any help!
Sometime back I had random stalling without any warning. The rig would run fine then stall with excessive cranking. My rig is an 82 completely stock and smogged. What I did find was wiggling the wires at the connection where they enter the emissions computer. You probably know this little box is located on the inside drivers side firewall. I could never duplicate the stalling but manipulating the wires would result in firing up again.
Like you I keep my 40 well maintained and tuned so I leaned towards an electrical issue.
I pulled the emission computer and carefully opened the box exposing the circuit board. I found at least three cold solder joints (opposite side of connector ). I resoldered all suspicious cold joints and my problem had been solved for years now. Get under there and remove the box and check it out. Others have reported similar. Cold solder joints are intermittent at best but once you re-solder them the problem resolves. I had a similar issue with my 2000 1500 Silverado. I chased a parasitic drain for months until I isolated it to the ABS module/valving under the driver along the frame rail. I found cold solder joints and fix them. Gone is the draining and saved close to $700.
The only thing that bothers me about your issue it the fact that you can duplicate the problem by applying choke. Try first to wiggle the wires at the connection to the connection itself.
Keep us posted on what you find.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Thanks all for the advice. Will check the solenoid as well as some of those connectors. Will update soon.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Check the fuel cut idle solenoid. You should hear a noticeable click when turning on your ignition.
@OPMACHINE ill do that soon…not sure if I ever heard a click before just with normal start up. Is there a way to check with multimeter as well. I’ll check to make sure 12v is getting to it as well.
 

OPMACHINE

Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 18, 2019
Messages
594
Location
Jacksonville, FL / Thomasville Ga
You should hear the click when you turn the ignition On before engine start.

Make sure you are getting 12V at the fuel cut idle solenoid. On my 1979 it is the green plug on the carburetor. (White+/black-). The solenoid is grounded thru the emission control module under dash. A common failure is the solder on the back of the board. The solder points fail and the ECM and does not ground the fuel cut solenoid.

The fix is to reflow the solder on the ECM board or just ground the fuel solenoid at the carb.
 

OPMACHINE

Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 18, 2019
Messages
594
Location
Jacksonville, FL / Thomasville Ga
BEDD84F7-A2F9-44EB-9AE9-93D4A1EA4DA5.jpeg

1660426761184.jpeg

1660426794517.jpeg
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
11,662
Location
down in a hole.
I've seen the solenoid plunger broken off inside the carb; solenoid had voltage, clicked with key, passage never opened... you'll find it; whatever it is. Likey a vacuum leak, provided the idle passage is opening.
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
21,715
Location
EAST COAST
Website
vintageteqparts.com
Thanks all for the advice. Will check the solenoid as well as some of those connectors. Will update soon.


if you find your original oem 2 wire FCS Solenoid is faulty , and they do go bad after 30+ years

i offer new ones , made in JAPAN parts .. :)






1660431494659.png
 

Engineer8000

CAPE FEAR ELECTRONICS
SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 16, 2019
Messages
1,331
Location
SOUTHPORT NC
Website
forum.ih8mud.com
The 81+ emission computer is ultra reliable. I have never found one failed completely. That one shown above with broken solder joints is not an 81+. I have seen those with broken solder connections on the connector on the 79/80 boxes. It is easy enough to look at but I don't think that is your problem.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Thanks all for the amazing suggestions! Ill get into it today to see. For the life of me…if I were to replace that Solenoid, how the hell do you unscrew it from such a hidden/tight space on the back (if it is the back) of that carb!? I assume with the entire air filter housing off, you may have more room for a wrench etc. I see now they use square plugs, but looks like you can retro fit the original plug with some minor work.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Looks like I have a click (video below). Did it like 4 times to be sure as well. Checked emissions ecu plug to make sure it was seated. Ill most likely upload a video to show the idle issue for reference.

 
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
186
Location
Atlanta, GA
Check the EGR valve for sticking. The EGR opens up based on a few things. Coolant temperature, throttle angle and exhaust pressure. If the valve pintle is carboned up it can stick slightly open and the engine will stall. It is very common on 2F engines 1981-1987. Bill
@Silver City Cruiser hey bill, what is best way to check this? Simply remove and inspect and clean? Was not sure if it was serviceable or should just replace as I know they are easy to acquire.
 

Silver City Cruiser

Bills Toy Shop
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
217
Location
Farmington,Nm
@Silver City Cruiser hey bill, what is best way to check this? Simply remove and inspect and clean? Was not sure if it was serviceable or should just replace as I know they are easy to acquire.
The easiest way to check is just pull the hose off the egr and plug it. Please just do this for testing only. Make sure you do this when the vehicle is idling normally and not during the stalling issue. Drive the vehicle for a few days and see if the problem returns. The EGR cooler gets filled with carbon pieces and the will move up the flex pipe and get to the egr. Replace the egr and remove the cooler cover to clean out the debris. Let me know how it goes. Takumi Bill
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom