Where to start? 98 sr5

[two4twenty3rdGen]

(First Post) Hello all. My name is Sam and just joined the community. I will soon be the proud owner of a brand used 98 sr5. Should be coming home today (pictures to come). Looking for a point in the right direction on the first things I should check when its in my driveway and the first things I shouldn't hesitate to go right ahead and do based on the mileage. I drive 100 miles a day commuting and would like to focus on safety and reliability to start. Thanks in advance for the years of help I'm about to get.

Vehicle History- 1998 Toyota 4runner, 219K, 2 owners (1st owner for 14 years, 2nd owner for just under 8). Carfax lists all service records since the original sale. Serviced at Toyota of Santa Monica for the first 14 yrs before new ownership in Washington state. Service records from 2nd owner showing what seems to be every service done at appropriate mileage intervals. Below is a list of noted items serviced at 197K (last major service) based on service records. Oil changed at or around every 3K for life of vehicle. I listed all the big things I noticed in the service records to give a general snapshot of its service history. I would consider myself mechanically savvy and plan to do most if not all my own service work from here on out.

Service @ 197K
-Recommended maintenance performed	-Transfer case fluid flushed/changed
-Maintenance inspection completed	-Brake fluid changed
-Rear brakes serviced/checked	-Rear diff fluid flushed/replaced
-CV boots checked	-Tires rotated
-Air filter replaced	-Valve cover gasket replaced
-cabin filter replaced	-Drive belts replaced
-Oil and filter change	-Radiator cap replaced

-Transmission fluid changed	-Parking brake adjustment
-Diff fluid flushed/changed	-Spark plugs replaced
-Antifreeze changed	-Timing Belt replaced (second timing belt replacement)
Other Noticeable Services
-Alternator replaced @ 200K
-Started replaced @ 212K
-Timing belt @100K (first timing belt service)
-O2 Sensors @132K
-Axles replaced @ 172K

 

[gnob]

Stuff not shown i would inspect.
Brakes front and rear. (rear axle seals, bearings)
Steering rack play
Bj play
Spark plugs.
If it has k&n throw it away.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

Stuff not shown i would inspect.
Brakes front and rear. (rear axle seals, bearings)
Steering rack play
Bj play
Spark plugs.
If it has k&n throw it away.

Bj = Ball Joint? No K&N. Everything is bone stock as far I can tell. As far as brakes go is the Tundra brake upgrade pretty standard? Ive been seeing that all over youtube. Ill be checking brakes and rotors this weekend thanks. I think it will need tires. Tread looks good but i suspect they may be old. Ill check the ball joints as well. Not sure how to check steering rack play. Do i jack the car up and wiggle wheels? Also yes i will research on how to do that. thanks

 

[mzs14]

Bj = Ball Joint? No K&N. Everything is bone stock as far I can tell. As far as brakes go is the Tundra brake upgrade pretty standard? Ive been seeing that all over youtube. Ill be checking brakes and rotors this weekend thanks. I think it will need tires. Tread looks good but i suspect they may be old. Ill check the ball joints as well. Not sure how to check steering rack play. Do i jack the car up and wiggle wheels? Also yes i will research on how to do that. thanks

Specifically the lower ball joints as these are a known failure point for older units causing catastrophic failures. If you have the budget the general wisdom is replace them and the bolts with new items from Toyota only.

Your service records indicate a cabin filter was replaced, 3rd gen's do not have cabin filters at all.

 

[teachmetosurf]

Definitely replace the lower ball joints if not done. OEM only. Low cost compared to what happens in the event of a failure.

The Tundra Brake Upgrade (TBU) is a straightforward, beneficial upgrade - but not necessary. I completed the upgrade on my runner in October. I have front and rear bumpers/swings, sliders and a rooftop tent so quite a lot of extra weight, even before camping supplies are loaded. Being able to stop effectively is a huge bonus and these trucks become too much for the stock brakes rather quickly. Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly.

Has the radiator ever been replaced? If it's an automatic transmission, look into bypassing the OEM trans cooler with a separate oil cooler. This avoids risk of the "Strawberry Milkshake" that occurs when the factory radiator fails. I installed a new rad in mine and still bypassed the cooler because I use my truck off-road don't want any risk of potential contamination.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

Specifically the lower ball joints as these are a known failure point for older units causing catastrophic failures. If you have the budget the general wisdom is replace them and the bolts with new items from Toyota only.

Your service records indicate a cabin filter was replaced, 3rd gen's do not have cabin filters at all.

Thanks. I didn't figure out the cabin filter yet but that makes sense. I live in Seattle and the weather has been wet and rainy since I purchased the truck. It is currently hanging out on jacks waiting for me. Ill be under this weekend replacing the steering bushings. I also have tires being installed Sat. I have a mom and pop shop i go to for tires. I've asked for them to do a safety inspection for me. Inspect everything that needs inspecting. After ill do my own inspecting. Regardless of what they say though ill go ahead and replace the ball joints. There is no reason not to. I've got some other suspension bushings as well. Hahaha when I purchased my steering bushing kit amazon had their "frequently purchased together" at the bottom. I hit buy and didn't pay attention to what I got. Looks like one of the other kits was a sway bar link end bushing kit. Ill look into it more.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

Definitely replace the lower ball joints if not done. OEM only. Low cost compared to what happens in the event of a failure.

The Tundra Brake Upgrade (TBU) is a straightforward, beneficial upgrade - but not necessary. I completed the upgrade on my runner in October. I have front and rear bumpers/swings, sliders and a rooftop tent so quite a lot of extra weight, even before camping supplies are loaded. Being able to stop effectively is a huge bonus and these trucks become too much for the stock brakes rather quickly. Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly.

Has the radiator ever been replaced? If it's an automatic transmission, look into bypassing the OEM trans cooler with a separate oil cooler. This avoids risk of the "Strawberry Milkshake" that occurs when the factory radiator fails. I installed a new rad in mine and still bypassed the cooler because I use my truck off-road don't want any risk of potential contamination.

Actually I think it still has the original radiator. I seen a few YouTube videos covering the topic and did check that before purchasing. It looks like an old radiator but the fluid looks good. I plan to replace it. Is a OEM radiator the way to go or aftermarket in your opinion? Also I had planned to ask in the future about bypassing the trans cooler. I have a 65 mustang with an aftermarket radiator that doesn't include the trans cooler like factory, and have installed a B&M trans cooler. I guess I can save that for a future topic and post.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

Ok so here's a few pictures. Got it home and haven't moved it yet. Just checking things out and cleaning. Its Friday today. Waking up tomorrow and starting the steering bushing replacement.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

Stuff not shown i would inspect.
Brakes front and rear. (rear axle seals, bearings)
Steering rack play
Bj play
Spark plugs.
If it has k&n throw it away.

First weekend working on it. Brakes in front near new, drums in back will need to be done, installed steering rack bushings (energy suspension), found broken sway bar end link and replaced both installed with energy suspension bushings.
I’ll check plugs and wires next along with planning to replace ball joints soon.

 

[yotadude520]

Stuff not shown i would inspect.
Brakes front and rear. (rear axle seals, bearings)
Steering rack play
Bj play
Spark plugs.
If it has k&n throw it away.

What's wrong with K&N Air intakes? I've got one on my 1998 that's been on it for years.

 

[gnob]

The oil likes to coat the maf. Can cause permanent damage.
In all fairness the maf is just ridiculously susceptible to fine particle pollution.
Ime k&n is paying for a name.

 

[two4twenty3rdGen]

The oil likes to coat the maf. Can cause permanent damage.
In all fairness the maf is just ridiculously susceptible to fine particle pollution.
Ime k&n is paying for a name.

I tend to agree with this. I had an Audi A4 and put a k&n on. I had the best mechanic ever never took advantage of me he straight told me to put the factory air cleaner back on. Said the MAF would throw a code. Guess what? Before I could change it it sure did. Luckily I was able to just clean it.