Where to apply grease (and what type) when performing a brake service? (2 Viewers)

Which products do you prefer when lubricating brake components?

  • Follow the FSM (Toyota Rubber grease and Caliper/Shim grease)

    Votes: 5 62.5%
  • Syl-Glyde on everything

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper grease

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Honda Super Hi Temp Urea grease

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • AC Delco Silicone brake lubricant

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • Nothing except on slider pins, leave everything else dry so components don't get gummed up

    Votes: 2 25.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 10, 2007
Threads
276
Messages
10,132
Wanted to run this by the hive mind and put it all in one place as there appears to be at least 47 different methods (according to the internets) on how to grease your brake components (brake pad contact points, slider pins, pad support plates, anti squeal shims, emergency (parking) brake pivot points and adjusters, etc,etc,etc).

Looking at a 1996 FZJ80 FSM brake section there are diagrams for front and rear brakes with arrows indicating where grease/lube should be applied. The recommended lube where there is metal contact with rubber is the Toyota Rubber Grease #08887-01206 indicated by black arrows.

And where there's metal-to-metal contact (with some exceptions) the FSM recommends Toyota disc brake (shim) grease (08887-80609 tube or 08887-80409 packet), indicated by a white arrow.

Note that on the front brake diagram there are white arrows for the shims indicating where the black Caliper/shim grease should go,
and black arrows indicating where the rubber grease should go.

FZJ80 Front brake components.png


Note that for the rear brakes (disc) there are no arrows for the anti squeal shims of the rear brakes or the pad support plates, only black arrows indicating where the rubber grease should be applied

Important to know that the OEM rear brake pad shims come from Toyota coated with a thin rubber layer on both sides.

FZJ80 Rear brake components.png



Note the six white arrows pointing to the raised scuff pads on the backing plate where the brake shoes rub, the same grease is used for the adjuster.

FZJ80 Emergency (Parking) brake components.png
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
More photos some day
 
For the record, I don't run any brake pad shims. The front brakes are 105 series pads that are bigger in area and thicker than 80 series pads and can't be fitted with shims. Front brakes do most of the work so nearly all the brake dust generation happens there.

Also for the record, since OEM rear small-size brake rotors for rear disk brakes are NLA, only aftermarket rotors can be used. The rear brakes do make some noise, but the 80 just passed another annual safety inspection three days ago.

I have not investigated Toyota OEM brake pad availability or OEM handbrake shoe (for rear disk brake not drum brake) availability. All brake pads I run currently after aftermarket ones.

I have not disassembled calipers for inspection/repair for a lot of years (about 10 yrs was the last time I needed to with old re-used ones) but recall that I did use some sort of suitable grease when I did.
 
I live in the northeast, so I grease everything I can. I use Amsoil moly grease on everything on the truck.
As far as brake components, all slide pins, all rubber components, all pistons, both sides of both sets of shims, pretty much anything and everything to keep the corrosion to a minimum.

I have 2 complete sets of calipers, with 1 set fully painted and rebuilt with new hardware and pads ready to install and vacuum sealed in my garage. It's almost faster to swap calipers than to change pads.
 
Out here in the Sonoran Desert, I only lube the slider pins. The dust tends to collect on anything you grease, and getting into everything means a mess the next time you go to work on anything you've greased. The slider pins have boots, helping to retain the grease and keep them clean, and I wipe off ALL of the old stuff before reapplying new grease. The old grease gets pretty dried out between pad changes.

I'm betting every climate gets a little different treatment, based on our individual experience. Toyota engineers came up with a method designed to work everywhere...
 
I want to add, the shims are for vibration damping/anti squeal. How much grease is based on a bunch of factors. Most OE have their own preferences. One extreme example was a ford design (cant remember years/design). If you ran the ford pads and didn't "liberally" pack the shims (big slots), they squeaked bad. The down side was people over did it and got grease everywhere. I've also had customers complaining about squeak and fixed it by adding extra shims with grease.
I also see people not grease them and(or) not use a shim without issue.
That leaves slider pins.
My experience here really came about when I became an instructor. As a dealer tech, I wasn't exposed to many vehicles over 10 years old with untrained people doing brake work.
At the school, each day we did brake inspections. The things I saw from not just untrained people but professional techs would shock you. We would see several stuck, slider pins a week. Some were moms car that just had a brake job done in the shop. The number of unsafe brakes was astounding. What this taught me was how many people either don't lube the sliders, lube with the wrong grease or inspect them at all. I did get to see what anti seize does after several years of being on slider pins. It turns into a grey chalk.

Considering this is about grease, I'm not going into the horror's about rotors, calipers and brake lines I've seen after done by a "pro".

Me, lube the sliders with a silicone based brake grease. Shims may get the same. That all depends on how I feel. Slider boots are always inspected for cracks, stiffness. I was given a few cases of CRC ceramic brake grease but I cant comment on it yet. Have only used it once.
Personally, I prefer fixed calipers.
My students get taught how to rebuild everything (calipers, master...) even though its not really taught much any more.
 
When we performed my caliper rebuild, most of the new rubber was pre greased, however I did apply some MR-T grease to the rubber components. Here is a caliper rebuild video for further reference from Timmy of where we applied grease during re-assembly

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom