When to rebuild an engine (1 Viewer)

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To be clear from what @scottryana said, 300km is 186k miles. So most of us are over the service interval.
 
Wow, thanks for all the input!

This question has come up b/c we are in the shop now fixing a multitude of oil leaks and it was suggested to pull the head and have it machined based on our mileage. I choose to skip that b/c it runs well and I didn't have the extra cash. I guess I'm willing to wait until the headgasket goes.

Overall, the previous owner and my wife used it primarily as a daily driver.
 
Wow, thanks for all the input!

This question has come up b/c we are in the shop now fixing a multitude of oil leaks and it was suggested to pull the head and have it machined based on our mileage. I choose to skip that b/c it runs well and I didn't have the extra cash. I guess I'm willing to wait until the headgasket goes.

Overall, the previous owner and my wife used it primarily as a daily driver.

Anecdotally I think its wise to at least consider the HG at 250k. I did mine at 226k as preventative and the gasket around #6 was indicating a future failure. That having been said, when I got it the cooling system was hoop-a-jooped and it had probably been run hot for a while before I ran it hot. Heat kills the gaskets on these things. When the head came off the rest of the engine was in good shape but most of the injectors were in need of rebuild at that time. In terms of a complete rebuild, I don't think thats necessary until it is, but other engine items may need attention before that. I would at least replace your radiator if you don't know the last time it was replaced. They accumulate crud and fill up or the plastic top caps crack and explodes as failure modes.
 
The bottom ends hold together very well on these motors. The top end and seals seems to take the most beating. When the HG went on my 94 at roughly 200k miles I decided to tear down the entire motor. With the exception of the #6 cylinder having water staining from the HG leak, the bottom end could have almost been mistaken for new. Even the bores were pristine with factory cross hatching very evident.
 
The bottom ends hold together very well on these motors. The top end and seals seems to take the most beating. When the HG went on my 94 at roughly 200k miles I decided to tear down the entire motor. With the exception of the #6 cylinder having water staining from the HG leak, the bottom end could have almost been mistaken for new. Even the bores were pristine with factory cross hatching very evident.

Sounds like my experience as well.
 
Anecdotally I think its wise to at least consider the HG at 250k. I did mine at 226k as preventative and the gasket around #6 was indicating a future failure. That having been said, when I got it the cooling system was hoop-a-jooped and it had probably been run hot for a while before I ran it hot. Heat kills the gaskets on these things. When the head came off the rest of the engine was in good shape but most of the injectors were in need of rebuild at that time. In terms of a complete rebuild, I don't think thats necessary until it is, but other engine items may need attention before that. I would at least replace your radiator if you don't know the last time it was replaced. They accumulate crud and fill up or the plastic top caps crack and explodes as failure modes.

Thanks and agreed. I replaced the whole cooling system (radiator, water pump, thermostat, PHH and other hoses) 4 yrs or so ago due to a cracked radiator.
 
Glad I came across this posting. I picked up a 97 triple locked from south carolina with 360K miles on it fairly cheap a couple of weeks ago, my first TLC. Runs pretty good and doesn't seem to be leaking oil but oil pressure comes and goes. While driving the pressure is fine but sitting at a light at low idle it drops to just above the red line. Have been contemplating if it needs a full rebuild or just get the head and gasket done on it. What things should I be checking to determine if this is a rebuild type situation or just a head and gasket one. From what I understand this has never had any major engine work done to it at all, doubt the HG has even been done.
 
Glad I came across this posting. I picked up a 97 triple locked from south carolina with 360K miles on it fairly cheap a couple of weeks ago, my first TLC. Runs pretty good and doesn't seem to be leaking oil but oil pressure comes and goes. While driving the pressure is fine but sitting at a light at low idle it drops to just above the red line. Have been contemplating if it needs a full rebuild or just get the head and gasket done on it. What things should I be checking to determine if this is a rebuild type situation or just a head and gasket one. From what I understand this has never had any major engine work done to it at all, doubt the HG has even been done.

Install an inline oil pressure gauge that is a direct read to confirm that what you are seeing inside the cab is what the REAL oil pressure is doing. The factory gauge is known to be wonky sometimes and the sending unit can also be wonky.

Just lines on a gauge don't tell you the pressure, just that there is more or less. You are ASSUMING the gauge is "calibrated".
 
Glad I came across this posting. I picked up a 97 triple locked from south carolina with 360K miles on it fairly cheap a couple of weeks ago, my first TLC. Runs pretty good and doesn't seem to be leaking oil but oil pressure comes and goes. While driving the pressure is fine but sitting at a light at low idle it drops to just above the red line. Have been contemplating if it needs a full rebuild or just get the head and gasket done on it. What things should I be checking to determine if this is a rebuild type situation or just a head and gasket one. From what I understand this has never had any major engine work done to it at all, doubt the HG has even been done.
What oil filter? I had low pressure with a bosch and went back to a toyota filter and problem solved.
 
It all depends on what you are willing to put put with. IK have had high mileage engines that had one or two dead cylinders and would use a quart of oil every tank of gas. I don’t put up with that any more now that Iam no longer poor white trash.
 
It all depends on what you are willing to put put with. IK have had high mileage engines that had one or two dead cylinders and would use a quart of oil every tank of gas. I don’t put up with that any more now that Iam no longer poor white trash.

In fairness, you’re just the “white trash” part... :rofl:

I’m there with you. I’ve been debating what I do with my 93. It has 356k miles. Limited service history. She burns (not leaks) about a quart per 1k. Has for about 20k miles. She’s sluggish. She feels “tired”. I have a spare motor that I started to rebuild with the plan of swapping in but just don’t have the time to do it.

Have been exploring the following options:
1) have a local engine company rebuild
2) drive it until she blows then sell it to someone that wants to do a swap and buy a 70 Series
3) sell it as she is to someone and buy a 70 Series
4) call Robbie and buy a 4.6 1FZ

If I did 2 or 3 I’d drive my 92. I really enjoy driving it more than my 93 anyway. And she’s prettier. I could always swap the axles from the 93 to the 92 if I wanted to and just part it out.

Meanwhile, I’ll keep driving it.
 
If it runs good and there are no signs it needs service (burning oil, etc.), run it.
 
I'm looking at the same issue now for my '88 FJ62. 201,xxx miles and has only two performance issues bothering me at the moment, both oil related. The first is the oil pressure gauge doesn't work, and the second is an oil leak that drops a few spots on the driveway and smells a bit when the engine is hot. The valve cover gasket appears to be one source of the leak, and was changed earlier; I've lost the records in all of my moves, so I don't know when. The amount of oil lost isn't enough to need a top-off between changes, so far. I'll do my next oil change in a week or two, after my kids are back at college, and send a sample in to Blackstone to see what their analysis tells me.

One thing I've always noticed about this vehicle, is that it does seem to be tough on oil. It doesn't take many miles at all to to really darken the oil. Does anyone else see this?
 
Hi, Almost 400,000 miles on some of ours, no rebuild yet. They leak more oil than they burn,fix the leaks and your good.They were not supposed to be fast trucks anyway. Dead cylinders and its time to at least do the head. I'd like to know how pin head got his to move with 2 dead cylinders? Mike
 
405,500 miles on mine no real history on it when I bought it had no idea if it was maintained right until i fixed leaks and head gasket 3 years ago, no issue doesn't burn any real detectable amount of oil between changes. No rattles except exhaust mounts. When I had the head off still had cross hatch marks in the cylinders that was at 324,000 miles. My guess if it was taken care of it will go another 200,000.
 
I just want to know of a highly reputable Los Angeles rebuild guy should mine need freshening up anytime soon...
 
I was of the impression that rebuilds were spec'd for 300,000 miles or 500,000km. Maybe I am mistaken. I redid my head gasket as pm around 230,000 miles as pm, mainly to get the valves ground, put in new oil seals, and to inspect the top end. Cylinders looked perfect. After doing this I went from a quart of oil around 1000 miles no basically zero consumption between changes. I think if you keep the oil clean, numbers well past 300,000 between full rebuilds, with a head gasket/valve seal service in there would be a piece of cake.
 
i've owned an 80 with 465k on the original engine and head gasket and I have an 80 that lost its head gasket at 200k.


So what happened? I overheated (lost coolant) the one that lost it's head gasket, which if this happens you should assume that you've lit the fuse. There is no telling when it will pop but it will.
 

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