What you should do before you start this job, if you haven't already, is ask everyone who's done this whether to pull the head or the engine. And then you should watch
@OTRAMM's
head video, and do what he says. He's absolutely right.
Then you have to decide, whether you elect to pull the head (don't) or the engine, what else you want to do, because now you can get to it, and it'll be a true PITA to do it next month, after the head job is done.
Take the complete list, and then prioritize it based on what you feel is most necessary right now, and what you can financially afford. Time really is not a factor because you have at least a week to wait on the machine shop, and all this can be done in that time, divided up in the evenings. (Speaking from experience)
Regardless of which option you choose, now is the time to rebuild the starter solenoid and alternator if either isn't new.
Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale have both kits for cheap, you almost can't afford not to do this. Takes an hour, tops.
Ditto radiator hoses (not just the big three, but all of them) and clamps. Don't reuse the old clamps. Spring steel looses its strength over time. Cheap insurance.
If you pull only the head:
1. At least clean the engine/transmission harness connectors (there are two, sitting on top of the starter), because these connections determine whether the dash and backup lights work, and you cannot get to them with the intakes in place. Well, maybe you can, if your hands and forearms are ten year old size. Otherwise, you can't.
2. The left front shock is nearly, not completely, but nearly so, unreachable with the intakes installed. If you're going to replace one, replace both.
3. If your brakes aren't 100%, check your brake booster. It's as accessible as the DS shock when the intakes are installed.
4. The power steering high pressure hose is clear, once the head is off. The
Rein hose from Rock Auto is so close to OEM that no one I know has been able to tell the difference. And 1/4 the price.
5. The block drain, under the head is crap. Replace it with the 100 series design and you can drain the block without spraying the inner wheel well with coolant. Toyota has them, but
Absolute Wit's End does too. And
@NLXTACY has a search function. Bonus! He also has the headgasket kit.
6. Get rid of the radiator drain plug, for the same reason. Joey has what you need.
7. Belts.
8. New exhaust manifold studs. The nuts aren't supposed to come off. You can reuse them, but you shouldn't. Joey. again.
9. Same for the header studs. Is there anything you need that Joey doesn't have?
10. Clean and polish everything (that's just me). Consider Cerakote (you'll be bragging for the rest of your life).
If you pull the engine:
0. All the stuff above.
1. Motor mounts. They're unobstructed now. No brainer.
2. Oil pan gaskets. Can't get to them while the engine's in.
3. Rear main, if your upper oil pan seal isn't the source of the oil on your driveway/garage floor.
4. A/C dryer. You have to dump the charge and you should seal the connections as best you can, but the system has to be purged and reacharged anyway. The dryer should always be replaced if the system is opened for any length of time. Now would be the time to get the 60 series mount and relocate it, so it's not hanging down where every rock and furry critter can hit it as you run over them.
5. Clean everything you can reach and repaint it.
IMO, these are not negotiable. I would beg, borrow, or steal to get these done, with the engine out.
4. Front suspension rubber. Totally wish list items, but you'll never have an easier time with these.
5. Power steering pump. If it ain't broke, don't touch it, though.
6. Oil cooler gasket (not in the headgasket kit). You can't reach it with the exhaust in place.
7. Oil pump gasket. Be prepared to drill the bolts out. They are tiny and welded in place.
8. Harmonic balancer. If yours is in any way suspect, now is the time to do something about it. This is not a cheap item. And you have to borrow a 350-lb·ft torque wrench. You can do this with the engine in the truck, but it has to come off to access the oil pump cover.
9. Replace the nasty accelerator cable. At least, rewrap it. Totally bling. If you do all the rest, and don't do this, it'll scream at you every time you open the hood.
10. Clean and rewrap the engine harness. Tesa and
silicone heat resistant tape is the stuff. Clean all the harness side connectors. If you keep the EGR, replace the heat wrap, but do it carefully. If you wrap it too thick, you won't be able to get the fuel rail back on. This could be on the other list, too. Not expensive but very time consuming. If money is free. buy a new one. Joey has them.
