Whelp, finally blew the head gasket....what's on my todo list? (1 Viewer)

[dranobob]

As the title says, last year right at the worst time before a move my trusty daily driver LX450 blew #6. The oil is definitely milky and it did run a bit for me to move it on and off the trailer with extensive smoke. All things considered, it made it just shy of 250k miles. I replaced all the seals except the rear main and the head gasket at about 200k miles, so it shouldn't be too terrible to pull it all back apart.

My question is what is the minimum recommend things I should do on my way to replace the gasket? Had this happened at any other time, I'd would be ok with pulling the head and/or block to be properly refreshed by a machine shop, but alas I had a to buy a new truck and funds are limited. My goal is to get it running again now and plan for a more extensive rebuild later assuming I don't find damage. Is there anything else I should replace / inspect becuase the coolant ran through the oil while running?

I'm also curious if there is a parts list anywhere for doing the head gasket? I am not against a 3rd party kit, but preference has always been to use Toyota parts but I'm not familiar with the dealers in my new area.

As always I appreciate any advice

 

[rhc404]

Is there anything else I should replace / inspect becuase the coolant ran through the oil while running?

I'd do an extra oil change after driving around a couple of miles after the head gasket is replaced, and another after that if it still looked bad. The next normal interval oil change I'd send a sample to Blackstone to check % coolant in the oil and maybe get some info on bearing wear.

 

[Fj80oregon]

If you’re just doing the head gasket you need to get all that water/coolant out of your system asap. If it’s been sitting for months your rod and crank bearing might be chewed up. It could also be just fine hard to say. This is what I would do. Drain your radiator and block. Then do an oil change with filter. Run it for a couple
Minutes. Then oil change again. Rinse and repeat till the oil stays consistent. Then do the head gasket. It can be done in the truck it’s just so much easier when the motor is pulled. If you’re pulling the head I would have it refreshed and checked for flatness. It could be warped a bit from overheating. A head rebuild should be around 6-700 dollar bucks. If you buy Toyotas head gasket kit it has 99% of the seals and gaskets you need.

 

[Malleus]

Man, this answer needs to be in the FAQ. Search this forum, it's been listed at least twelve times.

 

[mudgudgeon]

First thing, do not run it again, at all.

I had a head gasket fail on mine. It stalled out the engine when it failed.

My goal is to get it running again now and plan for a more extensive rebuild later assuming I don't find damage.Is there anything else I should replace / inspect becuase the coolant ran through the oil while running?

I would say pull the engine out, open up the sump and check bearings in the bottom end for damage, and for water contamination in the oil.

I'm my case, when the engine stopped, I restarted the engine and drove it about 1½ miles to get it somewhere safe. After checking it out a bit, I tried to restart it again, and it hydrolocked the engine.

I replaced the head gasket, didn't open the sump. I had water contamination in the oil.
I changed the oil after 500km, as I knew from tearing it down there may have been some water in the oil.

I put about 3000km in the engine before crank bearings failed, and I had a knock.
The crankshaft in my was cracked. I don't know whether as a result of the engine hydrolocking, it from bearing failure.

Either way, a couple of very expensive mistakes there.

 

[CalnSam]

heres some of the parts i ordered when i did mine, i believe the studs and nuts are for the exhaust manifolds, i replaced as needed, the oring for the ps pump... i did the egr delete with hudd expo stuff, and a plug in the exhaust port, some plates i made. i also did the pesky heater hose, got rid of the metal hard line for it and did a green stripe straight through. hope it helps

04112-66036​	Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Set​	$254.62​	1​	$254.62​
16346-66020​	Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket​	$4.61​	1​	$4.61​
90116-10169​	Bolt Stud​	$1.97​	7​	$13.79​
90179-10128​	Nut​	$2.04​	17​	$34.68​
90301-73004​	Ring O​	$5.00​	1​	$5.00​
90916-03117​	Engine Coolant Thermostat​	$24.30​	1​	$24.30pe this​
90919-01176​	Spark Plug​	$1.69​	6​	$10.14​

 

[dranobob]

If you’re just doing the head gasket you need to get all that water/coolant out of your system asap. If it’s been sitting for months your rod and crank bearing might be chewed up. It could also be just fine hard to say. This is what I would do. Drain your radiator and block. Then do an oil change with filter. Run it for a couple
Minutes. Then oil change again. Rinse and repeat till the oil stays consistent. Then do the head gasket. It can be done in the truck it’s just so much easier when the motor is pulled. If you’re pulling the head I would have it refreshed and checked for flatness. It could be warped a bit from overheating. A head rebuild should be around 6-700 dollar bucks. If you buy Toyotas head gasket kit it has 99% of the seals and gaskets you need.

Sadly it sat for the year, so hopefully it isn't deteriorated. I would love to have the head rebuilt, but its not going to be able to happen for a few years. My hope is the gasket set will work for today and I can do the proper rebuild in a few years. Otherwise the truck is likely to sit until then.

The coolant is drained now, but I'll go ahead and plan to do the oil next weekend.

 

[dranobob]

Man, this answer needs to be in the FAQ. Search this forum, it's been listed at least twelve times.

I did search the forum, and lets be honest the search feature sucks. I tried many combinations looking for the minimum steps and parts needed but came up short. I'm specifically interested in what do I have to do vs what I should do (like rebuilding the head)

 

[dranobob]

heres some of the parts i ordered when i did mine, i believe the studs and nuts are for the exhaust manifolds, i replaced as needed, the oring for the ps pump... i did the egr delete with hudd expo stuff, and a plug in the exhaust port, some plates i made. i also did the pesky heater hose, got rid of the metal hard line for it and did a green stripe straight through. hope it helps

04112-66036​	Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Set​	$254.62​	1​	$254.62​
16346-66020​	Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket​	$4.61​	1​	$4.61​
90116-10169​	Bolt Stud​	$1.97​	7​	$13.79​
90179-10128​	Nut​	$2.04​	17​	$34.68​
90301-73004​	Ring O​	$5.00​	1​	$5.00​
90916-03117​	Engine Coolant Thermostat​	$24.30​	1​	$24.30pe this​
90919-01176​	Spark Plug​	$1.69​	6​	$10.14​

Thank you! I didn't realize there was already a single part number for the gasket set. That makes it a much easier order

 

[Malleus]

Yes, the forum search function fails to find most things here, but google will find them. My comment wasn't directed at you. I've written at least three of these lists, just this year, and I'm not the only one. The complete list, of must and should do, should be in the FAQ.

FWIW, the thermostat gasket and distributor O-ring are in the headgasket set.

You will have to replace all the gaskets in set. There are parts in the OEM kit that I never found a place for.

You should replace the vacuum lines, because you have to disconnect half of them to get at the head, and they'll break. And they're 30 years old. And they all leak. Get the longest length of vacuum line from Toyota; it's not expensive and unlike the SAE crap at the parts stores, it fits and doesn't leak.

You may have to replace some head bolts, especially the rearmost four and whichever are near where the gasket failed. I would not buy them until you remove the head and measure them, they're not cheap.

You will very likely have to replace one or both knock sensors, because they'll break when you try to unplug them, along with the harness side connector housings. You can buy the housings from Toyota, but they're bare; Toyota does not sell the uncrimped terminals nor the rear seals. Ballenger has a kit with Sumitomo (Toyota OEM supplier) housings, terminals and seals, for the knock sensor, for far less than Toyota sells just the housing. O'Reilly sells an aftermarket knock sensor for far less than the OEM. This is one of the few items I can't see paying Toyota for.

It's highly likely that the A/C cutoff switch in the head, or the harness side connector, will break when you try to unplug it. The sensor is available new; the housing is not. Be very careful with it.

That's the list of "have to" replace.

 

[Malleus]

What you should do before you start this job, if you haven't already, is ask everyone who's done this whether to pull the head or the engine. And then you should watch @OTRAMM's head video, and do what he says. He's absolutely right.

Then you have to decide, whether you elect to pull the head (don't) or the engine, what else you want to do, because now you can get to it, and it'll be a true PITA to do it next month, after the head job is done.

Take the complete list, and then prioritize it based on what you feel is most necessary right now, and what you can financially afford. Time really is not a factor because you have at least a week to wait on the machine shop, and all this can be done in that time, divided up in the evenings. (Speaking from experience)

Regardless of which option you choose, now is the time to rebuild the starter solenoid and alternator if either isn't new. Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale have both kits for cheap, you almost can't afford not to do this. Takes an hour, tops.

Ditto radiator hoses (not just the big three, but all of them) and clamps. Don't reuse the old clamps. Spring steel looses its strength over time. Cheap insurance.

If you pull only the head:
1. At least clean the engine/transmission harness connectors (there are two, sitting on top of the starter), because these connections determine whether the dash and backup lights work, and you cannot get to them with the intakes in place. Well, maybe you can, if your hands and forearms are ten year old size. Otherwise, you can't.
2. The left front shock is nearly, not completely, but nearly so, unreachable with the intakes installed. If you're going to replace one, replace both.
3. If your brakes aren't 100%, check your brake booster. It's as accessible as the DS shock when the intakes are installed.
4. The power steering high pressure hose is clear, once the head is off. The Rein hose from Rock Auto is so close to OEM that no one I know has been able to tell the difference. And 1/4 the price.
5. The block drain, under the head is crap. Replace it with the 100 series design and you can drain the block without spraying the inner wheel well with coolant. Toyota has them, but Absolute Wit's End does too. And @NLXTACY has a search function. Bonus! He also has the headgasket kit.
6. Get rid of the radiator drain plug, for the same reason. Joey has what you need.
7. Belts.
8. New exhaust manifold studs. The nuts aren't supposed to come off. You can reuse them, but you shouldn't. Joey. again.
9. Same for the header studs. Is there anything you need that Joey doesn't have?
10. Clean and polish everything (that's just me). Consider Cerakote (you'll be bragging for the rest of your life).

If you pull the engine:
0. All the stuff above.
1. Motor mounts. They're unobstructed now. No brainer.
2. Oil pan gaskets. Can't get to them while the engine's in.
3. Rear main, if your upper oil pan seal isn't the source of the oil on your driveway/garage floor.
4. A/C dryer. You have to dump the charge and you should seal the connections as best you can, but the system has to be purged and reacharged anyway. The dryer should always be replaced if the system is opened for any length of time. Now would be the time to get the 60 series mount and relocate it, so it's not hanging down where every rock and furry critter can hit it as you run over them.
5. Clean everything you can reach and repaint it.
IMO, these are not negotiable. I would beg, borrow, or steal to get these done, with the engine out.
4. Front suspension rubber. Totally wish list items, but you'll never have an easier time with these.
5. Power steering pump. If it ain't broke, don't touch it, though.
6. Oil cooler gasket (not in the headgasket kit). You can't reach it with the exhaust in place.
7. Oil pump gasket. Be prepared to drill the bolts out. They are tiny and welded in place.
8. Harmonic balancer. If yours is in any way suspect, now is the time to do something about it. This is not a cheap item. And you have to borrow a 350-lb·ft torque wrench. You can do this with the engine in the truck, but it has to come off to access the oil pump cover.
9. Replace the nasty accelerator cable. At least, rewrap it. Totally bling. If you do all the rest, and don't do this, it'll scream at you every time you open the hood.
10. Clean and rewrap the engine harness. Tesa and silicone heat resistant tape is the stuff. Clean all the harness side connectors. If you keep the EGR, replace the heat wrap, but do it carefully. If you wrap it too thick, you won't be able to get the fuel rail back on. This could be on the other list, too. Not expensive but very time consuming. If money is free. buy a new one. Joey has them.

 

[mudgudgeon]

What you should do before you start this job, if you haven't already, is ask everyone who's done this whether to pull the head or the engine. And then you should watch @OTRAMM's head video, and do what he says. He's absolutely right.

Then you have to decide, whether you elect to pull the head (don't) or the engine, what else you want to do, because now you can get to it, and it'll be a true PITA to do it next month, after the head job is done.

Take the complete list, and then prioritize it based on what you feel is most necessary right now, and what you can financially afford. Time really is not a factor because you have at least a week to wait on the machine shop, and all this can be done in that time, divided up in the evenings. (Speaking from experience)

Regardless of which option you choose, now is the time to rebuild the starter solenoid and alternator if either isn't new. Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale have both kits for cheap, you almost can't afford not to do this. Takes an hour, tops.

Ditto radiator hoses (not just the big three, but all of them) and clamps. Don't reuse the old clamps. Spring steel looses its strength over time. Cheap insurance.

If you pull only the head:
1. At least clean the engine/transmission harness connectors (there are two, sitting on top of the starter), because these connections determine whether the dash and backup lights work, and you cannot get to them with the intakes in place. Well, maybe you can, if your hands and forearms are ten year old size. Otherwise, you can't.
2. The left front shock is nearly, not completely, but nearly so, unreachable with the intakes installed. If you're going to replace one, replace both.
3. If your brakes aren't 100%, check your brake booster. It's as accessible as the DS shock when the intakes are installed.
4. The power steering high pressure hose is clear, once the head is off. The Rein hose from Rock Auto is so close to OEM that no one I know has been able to tell the difference. And 1/4 the price.
5. The block drain, under the head is crap. Replace it with the 100 series design and you can drain the block without spraying the inner wheel well with coolant. Toyota has them, but Absolute Wit's End does too. And @NLXTACY has a search function. Bonus! He also has the headgasket kit.
6. Get rid of the radiator drain plug, for the same reason. Joey has what you need.
7. Belts.
8. New exhaust manifold studs. The nuts aren't supposed to come off. You can reuse them, but you shouldn't. Joey. again.
9. Same for the header studs. Is there anything you need that Joey doesn't have?
10. Clean and polish everything (that's just me). Consider Cerakote (you'll be bragging for the rest of your life).

If you pull the engine:
0. All the stuff above.
1. Motor mounts. They're unobstructed now. No brainer.
2. Oil pan gaskets. Can't get to them while the engine's in.
3. Rear main, if your upper oil pan seal isn't the source of the oil on your driveway/garage floor.
4. A/C dryer. You have to dump the charge and you should seal the connections as best you can, but the system has to be purged and reacharged anyway. The dryer should always be replaced if the system is opened for any length of time. Now would be the time to get the 60 series mount and relocate it, so it's not hanging down where every rock and furry critter can hit it as you run over them.
5. Clean everything you can reach and repaint it.
IMO, these are not negotiable. I would beg, borrow, or steal to get these done, with the engine out.
4. Front suspension rubber. Totally wish list items, but you'll never have an easier time with these.
5. Power steering pump. If it ain't broke, don't touch it, though.
6. Oil cooler gasket (not in the headgasket kit). You can't reach it with the exhaust in place.
7. Oil pump gasket. Be prepared to drill the bolts out. They are tiny and welded in place.
8. Harmonic balancer. If yours is in any way suspect, now is the time to do something about it. This is not a cheap item. And you have to borrow a 350-lb·ft torque wrench. You can do this with the engine in the truck, but it has to come off to access the oil pump cover.
9. Replace the nasty accelerator cable. At least, rewrap it. Totally bling. If you do all the rest, and don't do this, it'll scream at you every time you open the hood.
10. Clean and rewrap the engine harness. Tesa and silicone heat resistant tape is the stuff. Clean all the harness side connectors. If you keep the EGR, replace the heat wrap, but do it carefully. If you wrap it too thick, you won't be able to get the fuel rail back on. This could be on the other list, too. Not expensive but very time consuming. If money is free. buy a new one. Joey has them.

That's a pretty comprehensive list.

I would say if purchasing all these parts, go straight to partsouq or one of the other major OEM parts resellers. Skip witsend

For @dranobob definitely do everything on this list. Don't skip pulling the engine.

You've run the engine with water contamination in the oil, not checking bearings for damage is really rolling the dice.

If you haven't already, have a look at partsouq.com they have parts diagrams and you can put together a shopping cart of all the parts you need.


I'll second the comment on watching otramm's videos.
Very succinct explanations, and great video footage step by step through disassembly, re-assembly.

 

[dranobob]

Yes, the forum search function fails to find most things here, but google will find them. My comment wasn't directed at you. I've written at least three of these lists, just this year, and I'm not the only one. The complete list, of must and should do, should be in the FAQ.

FWIW, the thermostat gasket and distributor O-ring are in the headgasket set.

You will have to replace all the gaskets in set. There are parts in the OEM kit that I never found a place for.

You should replace the vacuum lines, because you have to disconnect half of them to get at the head, and they'll break. And they're 30 years old. And they all leak. Get the longest length of vacuum line from Toyota; it's not expensive and unlike the SAE crap at the parts stores, it fits and doesn't leak.

You may have to replace some head bolts, especially the rearmost four and whichever are near where the gasket failed. I would not buy them until you remove the head and measure them, they're not cheap.

You will very likely have to replace one or both knock sensors, because they'll break when you try to unplug them, along with the harness side connector housings. You can buy the housings from Toyota, but they're bare; Toyota does not sell the uncrimped terminals nor the rear seals. Ballenger has a kit with Sumitomo (Toyota OEM supplier) housings, terminals and seals, for the knock sensor, for far less than Toyota sells just the housing. O'Reilly sells an aftermarket knock sensor for far less than the OEM. This is one of the few items I can't see paying Toyota for.

It's highly likely that the A/C cutoff switch in the head, or the harness side connector, will break when you try to unplug it. The sensor is available new; the housing is not. Be very careful with it.

That's the list of "have to" replace.

I really appreciate both replies. My LX has been my daily driver for over 15 years so reply 2 is my long term plan, but it will be nice to see it run again if I can pull off the "have to" list in the next few weeks.

 

[White Stripe]

I would probably plan on putting some fresh rod and main bearings in it if it's been sitting with milky oil.

 

[dranobob]

I would probably plan on putting some fresh rod and main bearings in it if it's been sitting with milky oil.

What are the consequences if I dont do that now and it is a few years of light driving (~5k a year) before I can finally pull the motor?

 

[White Stripe]

What are the consequences if I dont do that now and it is a few years of light driving (~5k a year) before I can finally pull the motor?

This is my understanding: Antifreeze mixed with oil deteriorates the composition of the bearing material. Look up on Google "spun bearing after head gasket repair." See how many stories you find. A spun bearing will damage the block, crankshaft, and connecting rod. It destroys the motor.

It's very little extra time to pull the motor. Flip it upside down, throw in new rod and main bearings, rear main seal, and do headgasket on the stand. I would also blow out the oil passageways to make sure nothing is clogged. Check the cylinder walls for damage.

 

[dranobob]

That’s a huge bummer. I’ll have to disagree that pulling the motor is “very little extra time”.

I’ve pulled a few motors and it goes from a 1-2 day job to 2 weekends at a minimum and that is before broken parts, broken tools, etc. I sadly don’t have anyway to dedicate they kind of time to a side project right now.

Well s***. Probably means I’ll have to sell the truck.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Where are you located? Yes you can probable get away with just a head gasket and you might be fine. The MUD community is just giving you our experiences from past adventures. I get you’re doing it cheep but nothing about a 80 series ends up cheep. Maybe some local guys can help you pull that thing in a weekend? Do you have a garage to work out of? Do you have a hoist? I can tell you from my experience recently pulling 2 drivetrains (Motor, transmission and t case) in the last 6 months that it can be done by yourself with a harbor freight 2 ton hoist and load leveler. Cheep engine stand and you’re off to the races. Nobody here wants to see you sell your cruiser we want to see that sucker last another 100k for you.

 

[dranobob]

I always appreciate the support on this site. I have all the tools, engine hoist, engine stand etc, but alas the title of the post. Its definitely not about doing what is cheapest cost, but cheapest time. The truck blew at the worst time and right now I have a fixer upper house, new career, and tiny kids, so just zero free time I can justify a major car project for the next few years.

 

[mudgudgeon]

What are the consequences if I dont do that now and it is a few years of light driving (~5k a year) before I can finally pull the motor?

How long is a piece of string?

You may have a few years trouble free.

Running it with water in the oil, you may have already damaged bearings and crank journals, in which case the clock is ticking, the fuse is lit.

leaving it sit, you may have rusted cylinder walls which means accelerated ring wear.

crank bearing failure means an engine rebuild, or a catastrophic engine failure and a replacement.

I agree with the comment on pulling the engine IF you need to touch the bottom end.
By the time you remove enough stuff to do the head in the car, you've done 80-90% of what you need to do to pull the engine.

I just replaced the head gasket on one of these.
in an already clean and PM'd engine bay, I had about 24hours in removing the head in the car, and changing the gasket, buttoning it all back up.