wheeling technique

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97cruiser

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Well I finally HAD to use my lockers to get out of some nasty sh!t.
I was out this past weekend on a dirt road running through some wheat fields. We turn down this one that had some tracks from an
atv that obviously was havin some fun. This was the 1st road we had been on with any slope. So we go down this road about a half mile and its a dead-end. When we come to a stop on this road with a slight sloap we continue to slowly slide about 10 yrds. into a small ditch.

This stuff is clay-like and about 3 inches deep but slick as snot. I lock it up and have a difficult but fun time gettin out and turned around. Now we are turned around and lookin at this 100 yrd. long hill ahead of us and thinking " holy cr@p", this is not gonna be easy. I keep it locked and try takin off slowly to gain momentum, LOL NO WAY. I have Toyo Open Country's and I may as well have slicks on, they were completely filled and useless. Anyways I take three runs and make it about 30 yrds. each time before my backend swings (slight crown to the road) out starts taking me into the ditch.
Now I'm 10 miles from the nearest farm house with wet snow comin down (not sticking), no way I'm walking. I put the pedal to the metal (well almost) and walked up this lil hill barely with the back end way out to the side for about 100 yrds.
I'm just wondering. Is it that bad to have it all locked up with front wheels turned to keep it goin straight and wheels spinning at about 20-30 mph. for about 100 yrds.
I've since put about 100 miles on it and everything seems fine. Bottom line is the 'cruiser got me out and home.

Thnx, Vince
 
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97cruiser

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Cmon guys 40 views and no replies? I know somebody has the answer to this, or are y'all just pretending to be "knowledgeable". :flipoff2:

That oughta do it :D , Vince
 
MTNRAT

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I would say no harm done as you were in a very low traction situ. I have done the same to get up steep mud tracks with ATs, and not wanting to back down. Get some mud tires and it really has to be nasty to be a problem. Same hill and same conditions, no problem.
Sean
 
Curran

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I’ll give you my two cents:

Since it was extremely low traction stuff to begin with and you’re tires were slicked over, I don’t see much wrong with liberal application of the skinny pedal to get the momentum necessary to crest the hill even when fully locked. Also, since you mentioned Toyo Open Country (AT, I assume) we’re talking about a 35-inch or smaller tire, so the added stress that comes from super huge meats is not in the picture.

That said, I’d note that locking your diffs will increase the likelihood that you’ll corkscrew off your intended line when things are slippery and not quite flat. Most of the time the lockers are a blessing, but some time they can help screw you up.

Junk excluded, most of the Birfield damage that I read about occurs on high traction surfaces while reversing with the front locker engaged. I think that you’ll be fine.

I’m sure others will disagree

CJ
:beer:
 
Beowulf

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Vince,
I read your post but it's not clear to me what you're asking the group.

If your question is "did you harm your truck?" my answer would be "no, probably not."

If your question is "what is the best tactic for using the lockers?" my answer would be "your tactic worked as you didn't have to walk and you didn't flip the truck." In general, you want to lock an axle before you get into trouble or when one wheel looses all traction (e.g. in the air.) In most off-roading situations you want the center diff locked all the time.

HTH.
-B-
 
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97cruiser

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Thnx for the replies guys, -B- yes I was asking if I may have harmed my truck. Instructions on truck say dont exceed 5 mph and use only when necessary. Well it was definately necessary but I went way over 5 mph and had steering wheel cranked about half way to keep my line, this was my main concern. After a few attempts fully locked and my backend swinging way out I wanted to engage only the front locker to pull me up the incline but it's either rear locked or both front and rear locked. Front only would have been nice in this situation.

Thnx again guys, Vince
 
Beowulf

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Vince,
Typically in that situation you would use momentum with open diffs and locked center. One or more wheels spinning isn't a big problem and you would still have made it up the hill and probably more straight than your tail end sideways trip.
-B-
 
Gumby

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I think you would have had big problems if you had suddenly gotten traction, but spinning them loose like you were is no problem at all. I think the 5 mph rule is more CYA than anything else. Toyota's lawyers don't want anyone flipping or breaking a rig locked up on pavement.
 
cruiserdan

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The diffs are inhibited from locking if the vehicle speed is in excess of 5 mph, they will stay locked if the vehicle exceeds 5 mph after locking. The reason for restricting the lock-up is to prevent damage to the drivetrain or sudden, unpredictable, sideways movement of the vehicle after lock-up. The reason for the recommendation of a 5 mph maximun speed is because of the possibility of sudden sideways movement of the vehicle. Anybody who has driven a posi-trac muscle car on ice or snow will know EXACTLY what I'm talking about.
 
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97cruiser

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-B-, You are talkin about using the CDL in high gear correct?. Haven't got to that mod yet.... But I will. :D

Vince
 
80and100cruisers

80and100cruisers

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I asssume the same applys to a 100 w/ rear locker? My book says 5mph and under, but I have def spun the wheels over 5mph, don't think I have actually gone over 5 mph..damn snow/ice and me not wanting to shovel snow.


-Matt
 
Curran

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Vince,
I believe Beo was talking about good ol' fashioned low range. On a stock FZJ, once you stop and shift the transfer into low, the CDL automatically locks up -- no modification needed. If you add the switch, you can then lock up the center in high. Modifying the transmission control thing-a-ma-jigger allows you to also disengage the CDL in low.
I highly recommend both mods, but that is a subject of a previous thread.

CJ :beer:
 
ppc

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If you have the CDL switch you can lock up the center at any speed. I don't recommend doing it while on high traction surfaces, at 70 MPH, when the wheels are wildly spinning or where the road conditions make it dangereous. Slow down, get under control, lock it up. It works great on snow and ice covered roads, even on flooded roads where you tend to hydroplane.

Front and rear lockers are totally different and should only be used when you can't move otherwise and unlock as soon as you can.
 
REDDER1

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[glow=red,2,300]I think the first problem is with your tire selection![/glow]
I had the TOYO open country 285's on my rig when i bought it. That was one of the first things to get 86'ed off my lc.

I took a trip up to Sunday River, Maine to do some snowboarding...i was on a regular paved road with some snow/slush..and i almost ran off the road and practically caused a few accidents allong the way. As soon as i got home..i went and got some BFG AT's 295's and now it rides like it is on tank treads!..if you are concerned about getting too agggressive tires because the rig is also your DD (as was the case with me) ..then i highly reccommend the BFG AT's.



take care
joe
 
GXO

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If you can still drive it and it cleaned up with no issues...

why are you asking?

Relax, if it ain't broke...either fix it till it is or leave well enough alone.

Lockers are there for what you used them for....low traction needs.

Disengage for pavement and high speed fun, otherwise, weeeeeee!
 
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97cruiser

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Dan,
I asked because it was fun as hell and I would do it again in a heartbeat, 'less you guys tell me otherwise for some reason or another. I guess what made me ask is the fact Mr. Yota says dont exceed 5 mph when locked. I had the wheels cranked and tires spinning so fast mud was literally flying 20 feet in the air, the cruiser was completely covered in 2 inches of mud top to bottom when all was said and done.
It's always fun when you get out of a situation where you think you don't have a prayer. It was definately a :beer: :beer: :beer: ride
 

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