Wheel Stud Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Jun 26, 2006
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Longview, Texas
I'pulled the back axles back out today to start replacing the wheel studs. Originals not quite long enough after disk brake addition. Seems like most folks recommend to press them in, but was wanting to get them done today.

Anyone every heated (with torch) up the holes in the axle flange to expand then drive in studs? This would of course not allow to replace paper gasket behind flange, but does this really matter.

If worse comes to worse, I can go wait until one day next week and take to different shop with press.

Thanks
 
I would not heat the flange of the axle to try and do this...
 
At one time I had wagon wheels on my '76 that had a flat steel plate for a center, no built-in spring affect. It broke a lot of studs because there was no give. When I was in a hurry it would take me about an hour to replace with no press or torch, IIRC I would drive the broken one out with a hammer, then pound the new one in. It seems to me I used the lug nuts to pull them tight. Can't be more sure, this was over 30 years ago.
 
Pull the studs through with nuts. An impact helps.
 
As the others indicated, use a lug nut to pull the stud in. In my case I used an old nut as a spacer between the lug nut and the wheel. Make sure the splines of the stud are lined up and it will set right in place.
 
Try an air hammer on the backside of the rotor. I would not lubricate the lug while driving it in.
 
I
Anyone every heated (with torch) up the holes in the axle flange to expand then drive in studs? This would of course not allow to replace paper gasket behind flange, but does this really matter.

If worse comes to worse, I can go wait until one day next week and take to different shop with press.

Not trying to be a smart ass, but how would heating and making the hole smaller make it easier to get the studs through them?

Use a little bit of anti seize on the splines of the stud, and then hammer them in from the back. I would not recomend pulling them in with the lug for two reasons. 1. Its hard to get the lug to 'seat' against the hub, and could loosen up after you tighten your rims on. 2. You could streach the threads out on the lug themselves if they hang up before seating down against the hub. :cheers:
 
Once you get the studs replaced and your tires mounted be sure to retorque your lug nuts a few times. One or two of mine loosed a little bit. as the stud "finished" seating. I just drove mine in with a 3# sledge with the axle flange supported on both sides of the stud being seated.
 
Air Hammer.....
 
I started reading this thread by coinsidence. This is exactly where I am at. I did what everyone else mentioned. Used the nut with some washers and air wrench.... so far no issues..
 
Put a couple of big flat washers under the lug and using my impact, it pulled them up. Just did two to see how it worked, took a few minutes, but got them all the way seated.

Thank...
 
I have to replace a lot of mine (sat outside so lond thay just snaped off). I was going to use a vise and an old socket that is what I used on my old Bronco. Worked good on that.
 

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