wheel rocks at 12 & 6, not 3 @ 9

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Jun 17, 2005
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My 96 TLC w/230k miles, the passenger and drivers side wheel when lifted off the ground with a new aluminum jack for Christmas rocks at 12 and 6 o'clock and not at 3 and 9. I searched and it appears the trunnion? knuckle? bearing would cause rocking at 12 and 6. What is the this bearing?????
Thanks
 
The top and bottom bearings that allow the knuckle to steer. Included in most knuckle rebuild kits. Common point of failure with high mileage.

-Spike
 
bearing on SA-12 of FSM

I found the bearings on SA-12 of the FSM. They look rather difficult to replace??
 
I found the bearings on SA-12 of the FSM. They look rather difficult to replace??

Nope, not difficult at all, I suggest using some brass drifts and going tap by tap around all the recessed roundouts that allow access to the backside of the race. :cheers:
 
My guess would be wheel bearings. they have more than likely been repacked once, repacked twice and now its time to replace.
Does your truck run quiet in a straight line, then growl abit on long sweeping highway curves (left side growls on right turns , right side growls on left turns).
 
My guess would be wheel bearings. they have more than likely been repacked once, repacked twice and now its time to replace.
Does your truck run quiet in a straight line, then growl abit on long sweeping highway curves (left side growls on right turns , right side growls on left turns).

If it was the wheel bearings, they would also show looseness at 3&9 o'clock.

They may be a possibility, but in this case the knuckle bearings are a more likely culprit.
 
If it was the wheel bearings, they would also show looseness at 3&9 o'clock.


I'm going with wheel bearings as well. Because of the hanging weight of the tire, rim and knuckle assembly, feeling play at 3 & 9 is near impossible.

Jack up a side, remove the drive flange and check the nuts.
 
I would also guess wheel bearings, at least check 'em. Could be trunion bearings, but I think wheel bearings are more likely to get loose, and you would feel play at 12 and 6.
 
Might as well check them all, I guess...

230k is a lot of miles for a set of trunion bearings, and it is unlikely they have ever been replaced.
 
at that mileage, might as well replace both and forget about it for another 100,000 miles. IMHO.

Also, go ahead and get a good set of brass drifts. I kept trying to use "other" things to tap races in and out ect.... finally went and purchased three sizes of brass drifts. Man, i should have done that a long time ago. Well worth the money.

Not trying to go off on a tangent, but i think three vital tools you must have for these trucks are 1. torque wrench 2. brass drifts 3. hammer drive for screws.
 
I have done 2 front 80 axles, and 3 out of the 4 knuckle bearings had missing bearings/broken retainers. Both axles had well under 200k.
 
ok to change just trunnion bearings??

I want to change out the trunnion bearings to see if it fixes the wheel rocking. Can these be changed out without doing a whole front end birf job? If so, how do you do it? Thanks.
 
I want to change out the trunnion bearings to see if it fixes the wheel rocking. Can these be changed out without doing a whole front end birf job? If so, how do you do it? Thanks.

I guess that depends on your definition of a "whole front end birf job."

Look at the cutaway drawing of the birfield in the FAQ. The knuckle bearings are inside the knuckle housing and you have to remove everything to get to them. While you are there, it does not make sense to NOT replace the inner axle seal ($3) and to NOT put fresh grease inside the knuckle.

It is also important to replace the bearings and races as a set.

Basically.... NO, you cannot change the knuckle/trunnion bearings without doing a whole front end birf job.

-B-
 
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I want to change out the trunnion bearings to see if it fixes the wheel rocking. Can these be changed out without doing a whole front end birf job? If so, how do you do it? Thanks.

Do the whole thing-it is "possible" but you don't want to go that route-do the whole job-feel better about yourself and your truck, and you'll have the chance to retorque those spindle nuts correctly so your darn sure of the f'n culprit next go round.
 

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