Wheel Hub PreLoad/Rolling Resistance

[bamelanc]

Just reassembled both hubs with fresh bearings and grease. One hub is 12lbs to roll forward, the other is close to 14lbs to roll forward.

Is this difference in “rolling resistance” within spec or do I need to make more adjustments?

 

[77mustard40]

First up, fine looking face you have there. I‘m just waking up for a midnight pee and can’t remember the FSM fish scale bearing preload specs. I followed them to the tee the first time I went through my axles and less so since. If you torqued the inner nut to spec then turned the hubs several rotations in both directions, loosened the nut and then retorqued it to spec before setting the outer you should be fine, It’s a 40. Just make sure the inner nut doesn’t move when setting the outer, the star washer should have made sure that didn’t happen. I never paid attention to the difference between the two sides, as I’ve kind of started to go by feel.

If they get hot hot to the touch after the first shot drive then you can pull the outer hub and reset the preload. I’m alway surprised how much rolling resistance the is on a fresh bird job.

 

[bamelanc]

First up, fine looking face you have there. I‘m just waking up for a midnight pee and can’t remember the FSM fish scale bearing preload specs. I followed them to the tee the first time I went through my axles and less so since. If you torqued the inner nut to spec then turned the hubs several rotations in both directions, loosened the nut and then retorqued it to spec before setting the outer you should be fine, It’s a 40. Just make sure the inner nut doesn’t move when setting the outer, the star washer should have made sure that didn’t happen. I never paid attention to the difference between the two sides, as I’ve kind of started to go by feel.

If they get hot hot to the touch after the first shot drive then you can pull the outer hub and reset the preload. I’m alway surprised how much rolling resistance the is on a fresh bird job.

First up, fine looking face you have there. I‘m just waking up for a midnight pee and can’t remember the FSM fish scale bearing preload specs. I followed them to the tee the first time I went through my axles and less so since. If you torqued the inner nut to spec then turned the hubs several rotations in both directions, loosened the nut and then retorqued it to spec before setting the outer you should be fine, It’s a 40. Just make sure the inner nut doesn’t move when setting the outer, the star washer should have made sure that didn’t happen. I never paid attention to the difference between the two sides, as I’ve kind of started to go by feel.

If they get hot hot to the touch after the first shot drive then you can pull the outer hub and reset the preload. I’m alway surprised how much rolling resistance the is on a fresh bird job.

First up, fine looking face you have there. I‘m just waking up for a midnight pee and can’t remember the FSM fish scale bearing preload specs. I followed them to the tee the first time I went through my axles and less so since. If you torqued the inner nut to spec then turned the hubs several rotations in both directions, loosened the nut and then retorqued it to spec before setting the outer you should be fine, It’s a 40. Just make sure the inner nut doesn’t move when setting the outer, the star washer should have made sure that didn’t happen. I never paid attention to the difference between the two sides, as I’ve kind of started to go by feel.

If they get hot hot to the touch after the first shot drive then you can pull the outer hub and reset the preload. I’m alway surprised how much rolling resistance the is on a fresh bird job.

I figured they’d loosen up a bit after some drive time but was surprised at the force it took to turn them after setting the inner/outer nuts.

This is the only rebuild I’ve done and may be the only one I’ll ever do. It’s not a daily driver… We’ll see.

I’ll be sure and shoot the temps after the first few trips.

Thanks for thinking about it with me.

 

[brian]

big bearing they take heat just fine.....tighter is better than lose.

 

[Malleus]

They should be stiff to the hand, but not actually hard to turn. I second the heat probe approach after rebuilding. I always do them one side at a time, just like brakes.