Wheel Bearings: What to check?

[tahoejoe]

2000 LX 123K miles with original bearings and grease. I found lock nuts were only hand tight. And I noticed end of the axle shaft near flange has blued color likely from heat.

I will clean and repack. Is there anything else I should check when I am in there?

Photos are from disassembly before I cleaned anything.

 

[excessive]

might as well check:

brake hoses
brake pads
wheel seals
Inspect CV axles
replace any damanged lug studs
inspect drive flanges for wear / broken teeth

 

[awesomeissquid]

Now would also be a good time to replace the front rotors if they are getting close.

 

[Bisho]

It looks like it’s been awhile, or original?

Make sure you grease the spindle bearings as well.

 

[GerLC100]

clean hub and treat/ protect against corrosion

 

[Fairgame]

Whilst you are at it then replace the dust seal on pic 3 and the hub seal holding the second bearing. I would replace the bearings and keep those as spare. Wheel bearing grease care of Toyota.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can check the current bearings and races easily, look for heat discoloration or scoring on the race or bearing rollers. With the spindle nut loose I'd double check them. If they're good, they redo the seals, regrease them, button things back up and you're GTG. Cool to see the original factory match marks.

oh, and if you do decide to replace, Cruiser Outfitters has great hub kits built that include everything you need.

 

[nissanh]

Use the bearing tightening sequence shown in the youtube video by "low range". I have used it for years and it works. Make sure to install new lock washers

 

[Exiled]

INMHO, if you're going through the trouble of taking them apart you might as well replace them. If the lock nuts were loose, check the inside of the races, if there's any scoring then I definitely recommend replacing them. Second @Trunk Monkey suggestion, the kits from Cruiser Outfitters are excellent and they keep them in stock.

 

[2001LC]

You have virgin wheel bearings. The yellow paint and grease, is factory. The blue at end of axle is normal, from factory. Wheel bearing service, is due each 30K miles. So these should have been service, 4 times by now (123K miles). So not a surprising, lock nut loose. You, surely found deep scoring on claw washer (thrust washer). Which is a result of vibration from loose wheel bearings.

The above video is not proper procedure for the 100 series front wheel hub bearing preload. If you set adjusting nut to 4ft-lbf as they did, on that solid front axle. You'll be way to lose.

Look through links under "wheel bearing and Kunkle

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW: The browning grease, on the splines of your axle. Is from water entry, contaminating grease on axle. Likely entered from grease cap. But may have come in seal at back of Kunkle. Condition of axle needle bearings and bushing, needs inspection. A clue, to the health of axle needle bearing. Is condition of axle, where rides on the axle of FDS. Best to remove steering Kunkle, first time in.

 

[tahoejoe]

You have virgin wheel bearings. The yellow paint and grease, is factory. The blue at end of axle is normal, from factory. Wheel bearing service, is due each 30K miles. So these should have been service, 4 times by now (123K miles). So not a surprising, lock nut loose. You, surely found deep scoring on claw washer (thrust washer). Which is a result of vibration from loose wheel bearings.

The above video is not proper procedure for the 100 series front wheel hub bearing preload. If you set adjusting nut to 4ft-lbf as they did, on that solid front axle. You'll be way to lose.

Look through links under "wheel bearing and Kunkle

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW: The browning grease, on the splines of your axle. Is from water entry, contaminating grease on axle. Likely entered from grease cap. But may have come in seal at back of Kunkle. Condition of axle needle bearings and bushing, needs inspection. A clue, to the health of axle needle bearing. Is condition of axle, where rides on the axle of FDS. Best to remove steering Kunkle, first time in.

Thanks. I will check all those things after I clean up the components. There is some rusting on the spline. The grease cap (dust cap) was on real tight and snug so I don't think it came from there but I cannot be 100% sure. If I can get to it this job then will look at the needle bearings. Otherwise, I know I need to reboot the CV boots soon. I'm going to be back working on this axle again. And I will have to do the driver side too.

Here was the dust cap and end right after I took it off with whatever grease they put in there.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks. I will check all those things after I clean up the components. There is some rusting on the spline. The grease cap (dust cap) was on real tight and snug so I don't think it came from there but I cannot be 100% sure. If I can get to it this job then will look at the needle bearings. Otherwise, I know I need to reboot the CV boots soon. I'm going to be back working on this axle again. And I will have to do the driver side too.

Here was the dust cap and end right after I took it off with whatever grease they put in there.

View attachment 3548788

If you're considering rebooting, due to CV grease loss through a small hole/rip. It may make sense. But most times, we only see a weep from between boot and axle under clamp. Which most are at inner boot small clamp. Which, I just re-clamp with a NAPA small CV boot clamp. How much grease has slung, along with over all condition of FDS (CV's and axle splines) are deciding factors. If I re-clamp, re-boot or replace FDS.

Personally. First time into any wheel bearing service. I like to do a knuckle service, by removing it. It give me the opportunity to clean, inspect, de-rust and restore all components including ball joint, upper, LWR & TRE. Then during subsequent wheel bearing service. I use the Slee spindle lube tool. I don't like using the lube tool, first time in a wheel bearing service. As it may push contaminates into axle bushing and bearing, that may be inside spindle around axle.

I'll assume the chisel marks around edge of grease cap, you made. So I'd 98% agree, cap not likely water entry point. But is 2% chance it was.
The hub flange gasket, looks good. With only tinniest rust stains near studs/holes, if even any. I can't zoom in, making difficult to see.

Water can enter at rear wheel hub seal, passed large wheel bearing. But if it did. The wheel bearing grease would be contaminated. Which it doesn't look to be.

So this is pointing toward Kunkle & FDS seals. One seal is on the FDS. The other is on the knuckle. The two fit together to create a water tight seal. The hub flange snap rings maximum allowable gap 020mm. Insures the seals, make proper contact to create this water tight seal.

It is possible to push axle inward, then look at seals on backside on Kunkle. You can also then see, the axle brass bushing.

This brass bushing was exposed. While using the Slee lube tool, which push axle inward. I found both seals missing. I show this picture. Since it shows how it's possible to see brass bushing. This one was very contaminated.

 

[tahoejoe]

Minor scarring on this dohicky thing. It did its job protecting the bearings from the loose nuts

 

[tahoejoe]

If you're considering rebooting, due to CV grease loss through a small hole/rip. It may make sense. But most times, we only see a weep from between boot and axle under clamp. Which most are at inner boot small clamp. Which, I just re-clamp with a NAPA small CV boot clamp. How much grease has slung, along with over all condition of FDS (CV's and axle splines) are deciding factors. If I re-clamp, re-boot or replace FDS.

Personally. First time into any wheel bearing service. I like to do a knuckle service, by removing it. It give me the opportunity to clean, inspect, de-rust and restore all components including ball joint, upper, LWR & TRE. Then during subsequent wheel bearing service. I use the Slee spindle lube tool. I don't like using the lube tool, first time in a wheel bearing service. As it may push contaminates into axle bushing and bearing, that may be inside spindle around axle.

I'll assume the chisel marks around edge of grease cap, you made. So I'd 98% agree, cap not likely water entry point. But is 2% chance it was.
The hub flange gasket, looks good. With only tinniest rust stains near studs/holes, if even any. I can't zoom in, making difficult to see.

Water can enter at rear wheel hub seal, passed large wheel bearing. But if it did. The wheel bearing grease would be contaminated. Which it doesn't look to be.

So this is pointing toward Kunkle & FDS seals. One seal is on the FDS. The other is on the knuckle. The two fit together to create a water tight seal. The hub flange snap rings maximum allowable gap 020mm. Insures the seals, make proper contact to create this water tight seal.

It is possible to push axle inward, then look at seals on backside on Kunkle. You can also then see, the axle brass bushing.

This brass bushing was exposed. While using the Slee lube tool, which push axle inward. I found both seals missing. I show this picture. Since it shows how it's possible to see brass bushing. This one was very contaminated.View attachment 3549177
View attachment 3549186View attachment 3549179
View attachment 3549182
View attachment 3549200

Like you said. Looks like moisture from knuckle in back. Clean but rusty

 

[tahoejoe]

If you're considering rebooting, due to CV grease loss through a small hole/rip. It may make sense. But most times, we only see a weep from between boot and axle under clamp. Which most are at inner boot small clamp. Which, I just re-clamp with a NAPA small CV boot clamp. How much grease has slung, along with over all condition of FDS (CV's and axle splines) are deciding factors. If I re-clamp, re-boot or replace FDS.

Personally. First time into any wheel bearing service. I like to do a knuckle service, by removing it. It give me the opportunity to clean, inspect, de-rust and restore all components including ball joint, upper, LWR & TRE. Then during subsequent wheel bearing service. I use the Slee spindle lube tool. I don't like using the lube tool, first time in a wheel bearing service. As it may push contaminates into axle bushing and bearing, that may be inside spindle around axle.

I'll assume the chisel marks around edge of grease cap, you made. So I'd 98% agree, cap not likely water entry point. But is 2% chance it was.
The hub flange gasket, looks good. With only tinniest rust stains near studs/holes, if even any. I can't zoom in, making difficult to see.

Water can enter at rear wheel hub seal, passed large wheel bearing. But if it did. The wheel bearing grease would be contaminated. Which it doesn't look to be.

So this is pointing toward Kunkle & FDS seals. One seal is on the FDS. The other is on the knuckle. The two fit together to create a water tight seal. The hub flange snap rings maximum allowable gap 020mm. Insures the seals, make proper contact to create this water tight seal.

It is possible to push axle inward, then look at seals on backside on Kunkle. You can also then see, the axle brass bushing.

This brass bushing was exposed. While using the Slee lube tool, which push axle inward. I found both seals missing. I show this picture. Since it shows how it's possible to see brass bushing. This one was very contaminated.View attachment 3549177
View attachment 3549186View attachment 3549179
View attachment 3549182
View attachment 3549200

Unfortunately for me my boot tear can’t be fixed with simple reclamp. It is a small rip that I covered with epoxy a long while ago. That only slowed it down. Left the original clamp. Now rip has grown to about an inch or more. I can epoxy again until I get the boot to replace. Or is there some other longer term fix for ripped boot?

This is great. Like expert real time assistance

 

[2001LC]

Minor scarring on this dohicky thing. It did its job protecting the bearings from the loose nuts

View attachment 3549502

View attachment 3549503

Claw washer scoring, indicates how loose wheel bearing where. Bearing set properly tight, and service in ~30K miles. Claw washer will not be scored, and can be reused.

Like you said. Looks like moisture from knuckle in back. Clean but rusty

View attachment 3549564

Actually, that factory white grease is not contaminated. Looks very nice.

Can't tell what this is:

 

[tahoejoe]

Got both front sides wheel bearing repacked.
No more front end noise and ride is back to original buttery smooth.

Thanks for the guidance on what to look for to complete this messy job.