wheel bearing question

[Thunder90]

So had the 100 in for service (170k), and dealer confirmed both front wheel bearings have play in them. I noticed this myself so I know it's true. They want to charge me 4 hours labor just to CHECK the bearings...lol. Obviously they want to sell me a bearing job.
Wondering if the indy mech who did the front rotors 20k ago during my PPI didn't torque down the bearings. Or, they are indeed toast.
So, the questions is do I first try and tighten them myself (how do I do this? is this hard?) --or do I bite the bullet and just get new bearings considering the mileage is 170k.
Also need CV axles, so am thinking I may just have it all done and save on overlapping labor. Not looking forward to doing axles and bearings myself.

thanks

 

[Ramathorn15]

To check the bearings, you have to do all the same labor as replacing them (minus actually taking them out and putting in the new ones). Its possible they weren't torqued properly when the rotors were replaced. If you need to replace the CV's I'd do bearings too. I would find shop other than the dealer that has experience with LC bearings. Probably lots of Toyota specialty shops in FL.

 

[Thunder90]

To check the bearings, you have to do all the same labor as replacing them (minus actually taking them out and putting in the new ones). Its possible they weren't torqued properly when the rotors were replaced. If you need to replace the CV's I'd do bearings too. I would find shop other than the dealer that has experience with LC bearings. Probably lots of Toyota specialty shops in FL.

Thanks, that's what I figured. Anybody have any lines on a specialty shop in N. Florida? Nervous about dealer screwing it up. But not sure of an alternative.

 

[abuck99]

You can do it - an hour of your time to check and adjust if necessary. I doubt they are toast at 170- loose maybe.

Read this thread- pay close attention to @2001LC instructions and advice. Bearing repack GURUs

If you need bearings- you can order complete kits OEM spec from Cruiser Outfitters, including snapnrings and related tools & hardware. Makes it real easy.

You can get help here from the forum to DIY.

Good luck

 

[Thunder90]

You can do it - an hour of your time to check and adjust if necessary. I doubt they are toast at 170- loose maybe.

Read this thread- pay close attention to @2001LC instructions and advice. Bearing repack GURUs

If you need bearings- you can order complete kits OEM spec from Cruiser Outfitters, including snapnrings and related tools & hardware. Makes it real easy.

You can get help here from the forum to DIY.

God luck

Just finished the thread. Very informative. So really just an hour just to check and adjust? Looks like I need to check spindle nut torque and breakaway preload if I understand correctly? Do I just need a fishscale and chisel? Just kidding about the chisel.

Would be awesome to get away w tightening spindle nut and applying Pfran cv boot clamps! Maybe I will nut up and try this myself...

 

[Ramathorn15]

Just finished the thread. Very informative. So really just an hour just to check and adjust? Looks like I need to check spindle nut torque and breakaway preload if I understand correctly? Do I just need a fishscale and chisel? Just kidding about the chisel.

Would be awesome to get away w tightening spindle nut and applying Pfran cv boot clamps! Maybe I will nut up and try this myself...

Thats what I did on mine. 130k miles and one side was a bit loose. I just grabbed the GF's luggage scale and went at it. Super easy.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Get the bearing kits from @cruiseroutfit, everything you need in a box. Well, 2 boxes . . .

 

[abuck99]

yeah Walmart digital fish scale$15

Napa 54mm socket-if you can't find that, 55mm will work its just a tad loose.

Boots: if they aren't leaking leave them be. If they are leaking, and not badly clean and try to tighten the crimp on the band clamp. Last resort is the wormdrive reclamp (imo). Reclamping with worm drive clamps is temporary: the boots are telling you it's time for reboot, and in my experience usually tear with in 5 or 6,000 miles. The self closing factory band clamps that come with the reboot kit are very good.

 

[Thunder90]

Boots are leaking but not torn. Will try to tighten. If not, I have new Pfran clamps in a drawer. Scale on order and will pick up socket.

 

[2001LC]

It is best to use a spring scale (fish scale) to set adjusting nut, and make sure to set the snap ring gap very tight. Some guy's just torque to ~20ft-lb and call it a day, but it's not best practice. Loose bearings & wide snap ring gap will eat the front drive shaft (CV) & wheel hub flange.

Fact is very few shop take the time to do and or even fewer know how to set these front wheel hubs up properly. Every bearing job I've done after a corner shop or Dealer was done improperly. Number one is they set bearings loose (old school), next they don't properly lock down adjusting nut to lock nut, third they don't set snap ring gap, forth they damage cone washer and/or reuse damaged ones, five they damage hub flange and or stud by hit it with steel hammer, six missing or improperly set seal(s), eight they don't use a torque wrench, seven they don't clean & inspect.

Chisel marks is sure bet it was a local corner shop that rarely even sees a 100 series

 

[Thunder90]

It is best to use a spring scale (fish scale) to set adjusting nut, and make sure to set the snap ring gap very tight. Some guy's just torque to ~20ft-lb and call it a day, but it's not best practice. Loose bearings & wide snap ring gap will eat the front drive shaft (CV) & wheel hub flange.

Fact is very few shop take the time to do and or even fewer know how to set these front wheel hubs up properly. Every bearing job I've done after a corner shop or Dealer was done improperly. Number one is they set bearings loose (old school), next they don't properly lock down adjusting nut to lock nut, third they don't set snap ring gap, forth they damage cone washer and/or reuse damaged ones, five they damage hub flange and or stud by hit it with steel hammer, six missing or improperly set seal(s), eight they don't use a torque wrench, seven they don't clean & inspect.

Chisel marks is sure bet it was a local corner shop that rarely even sees a 100 series

Thanks for the guidance, makes me feel uneasy about having dealer do this and even worse about the corner shop Indy who did the brakes prior to purchase.

How do I set snap ring gap again?

 

[2001LC]

Post #15 last picture should give you a good idea of what you'll need: Bearing repack GURUs